1515Art

A little addition we will be hosting a meal in the form n smoked tri tip (5 3# tri tips how ever far it goes) with rolls for sandwiches along with a pot of beans and potato salad. Ceril will make breakfast probably on Sunday morning.

Attached is the notice for public comment, please do not comment here this is not the place for any comments and in fact it would be best to lock this thread for comments to avoid this going off the rails. please comment to the link into the BLM public comment form if you feel strongly one way or the other and wish to provide your opinion on fees and other issues where it can make a difference, as fee increases in one area are likely to spread to other areas.

I would like to extend our invitation to a memorial out at Gold Basin, Arizona for our good friend and founder of WSPA Mr. John B. To take place on the afternoon of Saturday October 19th 2024 at 1300hrs (or there about) to pay tribute to the life and legend a great man and setting of a plaque in his honor on the new 40 may he always be remembered. come for the day or stay the weekend all and your guests are welcome, no RSVP necessary although very much appreciated here in the publicly accessible member section simply follow the Link below. A google pin can be found here with GPS coordinates for the meet up and camping area. https://wspa.invisionzone.com/topic/7417-memorial-for-john-b/ As always we will all meet and camp on John’s property near the helicopter landing zone, beginning on Friday October 18th thru Sunday October 20th. This gathering will be informal no host everyone is responsible for their own meals although food to share is always welcome and a piece or two of firewood would be great if you have a little to bring along to take the chill off evening campsite story time, I’d sure many have wonderful John B. Stories to share. A big thank you to Jeff Goddard for all his work seeing to the fabrication of this fitting tribute cut in steel appropriate enough for a man of steel with a heart of gold.

Ahhh, OK. I have a 12 gallon aux fuel tank that mounts to the spare tire swing out, but took it off because the weight bouncing down dirt roads was too much for everything and was tearing the metal the around the bolts that hold the bumper to the frame. I’ve since welded a 1/8” steel strap the width of the bumper attaching the recovery bumper directly to the frame eliminating that problem but haven’t remounted the fuel tank yet. It sure is peace or mind having the extra fuel running around out in the boonies.

Wow, that’s great fuel economy best I can do is a little over 200 miles on a tank, but worth it most of the time for the very same reasons you stated.

Leg room is always a concern alright and a big truck would fill that bill. But the most I can fit in my garage is the Aliner, living in an HOA has its share of benefits and disadvantages, the cost going to the truck goes up quite a bit. I’d be looking at the truck, toy hauler and storage fees for my toys as I’ve no place to keep anything like that the HOA won’t allow it. And those diesel trucks still run 20K and up looking on Craig’s list. I think for now I’m better off sticking with my Jeep and giving the host of new similar trucks to the CAT time for all the bugs to work them selves out… “buy a taco” sage words my friend…

Jim, it’s been a learning experience, I now know much more about working on Jeeps than I really ever wanted, lol, but sadly my knowledge is very repair specific so I can’t find the right YouTube video on how to fix it without help I guess. Imagine if we had a hat like the one the monkey wore in one episode from futurama that gave us the full power of the knowledge of everything known on google at our finger tips to fix anything… that little yellow MIL light would still shine. you are right on the money the whole needing reliability issue is what it’s all about, lol. Very true, but I think it is something simple and clues are stacking up if I was smart enough to figure it out. there’s a lot more that I don’t know about Jeeps than what I do know. Knowledge is kinda like getting fat, it comes one hamburger at a time, Mucho thanks to those here who have given me a few new burgers to chew on that I think might taste pretty good. Then I’ll sit down comfortable with my full belly in the drivers seat while I put a strip of black tape over it, lol. Used to drive would suggest I’ve changed my ways… trust me on this, those words “buy a Taco” are an endless loop in my brain, ha ha. I think maybe we are genetically prone to create our own drama, some more than others maybe I’m high up on the spectrum… let’s see, smarter on my next purchase, hmmm that’s a lot of pressure Chuck and somewhat against the odds, I haven’t gotten smarter in a long time, but thank you for having faith in me that I might have a chance, lol. Thanks Buddy. Clark They claim the diesel engine is one they have been using a long time and service and parts will be available world wide at everyone of their facilities. The diesel is the basic version that I think they said puts out 400hp and you can practically drive across the US one one tank… must be a pretty big fuel tank? The features were endless but you can lower the truck to passenger car height or raise it to 14” ground clearance at the push of a button, the bed of the truck can act like a job site power center with multiple 120 and 240 outlets and it is extendable somehow, body panels are designed for easy replacement if needed, locking diff anyway if curious these a bunch of videos on YouTube. But you are right the odds for problems increase with every part added on but they make some pretty big claims on realibility?

When I did the compression test cylinder 6 was a little less than the other cylinders at around 145# vs 150 across the board on the other 5 cylinders so I guess I need to do that again, the leak down test I didn’t think about but I’ll try that too. Amazon has a kit with good reviews I’ll check to see if my local auto zone has a loaner first. the computer has always been sensitive but I noticed this beginning to occur more frequently after returning from Gold Basin a little while back I’d pushed it for a stretch climbing the grade from Arizona back into Nevada towing my 10’ Aliner trailer, it never overheated but I did push the engine WOT for a good 15 minutes or so maintaining freeway speeds. The fact that slow driving and sitting at a stop light triggers the MIL to flash and the light resets at high RPM now makes a little more sense, high RPM would off set the compression leak the way the computer sees it possibly? The Two good PCMs come from Mark at “Wrangler fix” he kind of put an end to the PCM issues when he located a unit still in production from another Chrysler vehicle he could successfully flash for our TJs, they ain’t cheep but the big problem was the only thing available up until then was a supply of defective units marketed as rebuilt, that kept going through from one Jeep to the next with out being actually rebuilt at $1K plus your old core they’d clean and resell to their next victim. jim that’s sage advice, In retrospect I’d have done this a lot different but it all started with the first shop after the head gasket took out the radiator overheating the engine. I had the Jeep towed into a shop for diagnostic expecting i was going to replace it if repairs were too expensive and while I was kicking tires on its replacement the shop called with good news saying all it needed was a new head for around a grand, so I passed on a great deal. Couple days later I got a call to pick it up, what I found was the Jeep would barely run and sounded like the cylinders were full of broken parts, they didn’t even change the oil. The deal they offered was 5K for a crate motor install or around $3K for a used engine swap they said they found. The New Golen Stroker was only a couple thousand more so I made the decision for a little more power and chose a highly recommended shop to install it. That decision took me down a 4 year course in Jeep repair and roughly $30k in new parts, the second shop sent it back with the first shops after market radiator causing major overheating issues, all the old sensors from the burnt engine, intake/exhaust manifold leaks and missing ground straps plus a host or other things I had to do myself. I had driveline vibration issues from new diff gears resulting in New Adam’s drive shafts, Warn manual front hubs with Warns best chrome Molly axels front and rear the only one available during supply chain problems during COVID, new factory cooling system. I’d already spent over 10k on engine, diff gears, all new Savy aluminum dbl adjustable control arms, there really was no going back after buying the stroker. I blame the second shop as much as the first maybe more. Everything I wound up doing were things I’d opened my checkbook and told them to do, including replacing the transmission which they didn’t do either. It was a continuing story of just one more part should do it. So i own a 200k mile 2006 TJ that’s basically new, but if a valve job on the stroker will help me reach my goal I guess that works, it actually is a great Jeep. But she’s been like that high maintenance girlfriend you should break up with but ya just can’t seem to actually do it.

After I got the Jeep back from the shop I’d hired to put in the new engine there was a lot undone, main ground strap I found hanging from the frame unconnected, but didn’t replace the cable itself. I checked what grounds I could find but only replaced the battery terminals with some from auto zone, (I know jeeps hate stuff from auto zone) thinking that part had to be an OK substitution but maybe not, I’ve also got a blade cutoff on the positive terminal I’ll remove when the new terminals go in. I make it sound like it’s a bad shop but they do really good work when they do it, the owner of the shop did an excellent job regearing and he did a bang up job eliminating the cam bolts from the front suspension replacing it with Double adjustable control arms and a bomb proof fixed bracket, but he was busy (they had the Jeep for months) and his helper finished off the nontechnical install work (kind of) my first year was replacing sensors, radiator with factory, and everting else roughly another 20K worth of stuff…Tranny, drive train, etc. Thank you, I followed your link and ordered the set for the 2006 TJ since all the wiring is original to the Jeep, hope I can get to everywhere I’ll need to, the Jeep is deceptive it looks like working around the engine should be a breeze but in reality it’s just the opposite, taking an old design and filling it with the assortment of parts, hoses, misc smog stuff and other junk makes it so you can only get one hand into a lot of places that is if you are not holding a tool. The battery is an expensive interstate the largest I could fit it’s under a year old. crossing my fingers. Hay Frank, good to hear from you… last year I could go at a minimum a few days without the engine light after your resistor trick, the resistor is still way better than the scan tool, The frequency of whatever is returning faster which I hope makes it easier to isolate, but yes just the engine light basically, it runs fine

I never thought I’d consider replacing my Jeep, it’s pretty damn good off road and for the most part a decent driver, lm also into it pretty deep after replacing almost the entire power and driveline, but the little check engine light is a moving target that’s getting the better of me. I even broke down and tried a shop in town that swore they knew jeeps and could track down the issue no problem. So I took it in and a $1000 later it had a new intake/exhaust gasket and everything checked, they swore it had an intake leak… what it does have is the same check engine light, although it runs great and the wide band fuel ratio looks within range? It’s strange, I have two computers (three counting the original unit) they both trigger different mil codes, the tuned one with reduced fuel trims gets bank one and bank two O2 slow to respond codes, the untuned PCM triggers a misfire on cylinder 6 that occasionally in addition flashes indicating it needs immediate attention driving slow or if stopped at a light that will go away entirely driving a minute or so at higher RPM. Resetting with a scan tool clears the code for a short while, using a resistor to the battery ground and disconnected positive terminal completely drains the PCM capacitors and the MIL codes stay away for longer but they still come back. I have replaces all the O2 sensors, all the other sensors, injectors, plugs, rewired part of the power distribution center according to the TSB instructions, swapped the coil rail with a spare, checked fuel pressure and installed a fuel pressure gauge 60# at idle and I have a spare factory fuel pump I bought while they were still available, installed hood vents and heat wrapped the injectors and injector rail smoke tested it for intake and exhaust leaks, pressure tested the exhaust cats and run a compression test on all 6 cylinders. Everything looks normal using my scan tool but fuel economy sucks but for the most part that’s normal except the computer compensates when the MIL thinks there is a problem and the fuel mileage gets a little worse I think, gosh I am even very proactive with oil changes religiously adding a Zink additive to protect the cam and lifters. im going to give this another shot when Vegas cools down, pulling the throttle body giving it and the TP sensor a good cleaning with another compression test and a check of the timing marks at TDC to see if I’m missing something? As my patients wear thin that new CAT truck basic model with the diesel engine is starting to look attractive at 45k, anyone looking at this truck? I don’t really want to part with the money right now, I’d have to sell some gold and my gut says I’ll regret it but geez that CAT seems like the perfect ride that might hit all the boxes. what thinks yea, or any suggestions on my Jeep… it could be I need a better tune on the PCM to make the stroker engine happy, but pulling my hair out is giving me bald spots, lol.

With the z link it is important to have the control side of the headphones on the same side as the detector and to keep your body from blocking the signal as much as you can swinging the coil, as well as setting the control box inline with the headphones or Z link adaptor as much as possible recovering a target according to Garrett. personally my favorite combination is the Z link adaptor along with the old wired Bose ear buds but the ear buds are out of production and second hand the price last time I bought one was about double what they went for new.

Simon, I’ve had trouble with two of the Minelab 6000 coils the 17” was very touch sensitive minelab replaced it with a new one no problems after that and the original stock round mono coil cracks in the ears also replaced without further issue. I’ve also had two NF coils the 12” on the 7000 and the NF 6000 coil both of those have been fantastic coils smooth running good sensitivity. My stock 7000 coil was without issues and my coiltek gold hawk for the 6000 has been trouble free. All 3 of my axiom coils have also been trouble free, and seem to perform as expected.

Insurance map

My grandparents shared an old miners log cabin with other relatives next to the turnoff to… I don’t want to say cause it’ll out the area lucky posted but a road runs to some lakes next to the driveway to the cabins. It’s in a meadow with a trout stream and a field of tall grass the cabin is still there. we were sitting in a screened in porch when a family came walking through the property carrying a couple fishing rods. They made it about 50 yards into the meadow… no need to post no trespassing signs the skeeters were thick as fog an more than ready for lunch, it was the same thing they high tailed it back to the car, don’t know how they avoided their own hooks swinging as the ran.

Other than the area that matches the description from the saddle ridge hoard as much as it could with so little to rule it out completely, I always felt walking up Jackson Creek and looking for something that stood out as a landmark was my best shot. Problem is while easily accessible it is off limits posted no trespassing private property. The area circled in red would be my starting point. At the time I didn’t see why who ever owned it would give me permission to look when they could look themselves if they knew and I was not ready… that’s the hard part knowing who to trust or how much to say