Skull diver

In my case, the quickest solution was to cut the bonephones' cable at the height of the headband and solder the poles there with the Grey Ghost wiring. This means sacrificing your bonephones if they work properly. Mine, being broken and with only one plate barely making sound, were now useless. However, you can find a 6-pole connector and simply solder in the places that appear in the picture the positive and negative. Remember to insulate with resin the solder in some way after testing the audio and all should be well 😌 (Thanks to Carolina for the diagram or whoever posted it before 🙏)

I'd like to remember it, how long has it been since I've seen the magical color😐...I think I'll have to save the next piece as a symbol of revenge😂. Anyway congratulations 🙏

After suffering from broken bonephones, I salvaged a pair of Grey Ghosts I had on the Ctx and modified the connector to use the same pins as the bonephones. They sound loud and clear and I would not go back. https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cr8apzNqGvF/?igshid=MmU2YjMzNjRlOQ==

That's right, even better with a couple of holes at the bottom and top of the handle, so that you don't have to turn the rod upside down and let the water inside leak out

Never seen one before🫢. I'm still amazed of what we can find buried sometimes 🔥

Genuine envy...It matters little what you can find, but the time to devote to the search, that is priceless. I am waiting with fatigue for the first free opening for a dive 🙏

Lovely colour of the old stuff😌

With the premise that I use the instrument solely underwater in a saltwater environment, I take this opportunity to expand on my impressions of the P10/P11/P12 beach programs. Given a different frequency (now editable), I appreciated the freedom to keep what works and suppress what is not needed. However, some time back there was discussion about manual balancing with the + and - buttons, mentioning multifrequency and the difficulty of balancing both. Nothing to say about a double ground balance, for goodness sake, but such a high Gset versus a lower Gid would need to be corrected. I get an annoying false signal on clay and hot rocks around IDs 25/27, and it is precisely on those numbers that the GB should settle. Instead, the points are usually between 78 and 90. If it is not possible to unlock the manual balance management like on the mono program, it would at least be a good thing to have selectable biases on presets, like for maximum frequency bias. Thanks

Well, after updating the software and finding time for a session on the seabed to try out the new scuba program I created, although I have nothing to say about the stability in general, I have encountered a random flaw that occasionally interrupts the audio. Specifically, it happens just after an interference cancellation, or sporadically after changing something between reactivity or sensitivity. In short, you can't change the parameters much otherwise they are indigestible😂. However by rebooting I solved it. Aluminum by the ton and a beach among the most desperate, but at least the conditions were perfect for diving 🙏

You know what? Right now I'm more than happy to hear the stable threshold and using pitch tone, zeroing in on the continuous beeps as I move the coil underwater.In my opinion it's the only audio profile that allows you to distinguish a real signal from the ground and salt water when diving. All I need is the damn time to assemble a sidemount rig and test it properly

More than a few times, someone explained that it is not possible to balance the terrain manually in multifrequency, as it is certainly easier to do with mono. Unfortunately, I have to say that I was waiting for this feature in the new update, considering that on the Orx at the beach on wet sand, a dutiful 25/27 is ideal for quieting saline terrain. Strangely on the Deus2 I get a much more "loaded" balance, ranging between 79 and 87, when in contrast I get false signal on hot rocks and clay around 25/28... Can someone explain how to deal with this thing lowering at the best the G.B. ? I figured out to move the coil higher on the seafloor to capture a different grab, but it works relatively and never obtained a lower number than 70. What are we talking about if the proper setting is usually 25/28 for the wet/salt/sand?

I am convinced that this update has improved the stability of the instrument in favor of scanning. Despite being in the lab with dozens of electrical devices running, I was able to set up a program and save it in complete audio silence on any frequency. Now I am just waiting for a session of at least 3 hours on the seafloor to get a clear idea of how 40Khz reacts to saline💣😂

What I unfortunately continue to perceive is a break in the threshold in favor of the signal, instead of a rise in the threshold.Hard to say whether the cause is the square tone bonephone or simply the digital system to sound different.Same problem on the old Ctx. In any case I found the whole system much more stable and efficient. Right now each program is a matrix on which to process its own in all parameters. I just miss a manual ground balance in the beach🥴 programs.

I can finally say that I am satisfied with the volume output in my headphones. Using the same connector and cable as the bonephones that got destroyed, I simply reconnected to an old pair of Grey Ghost cables and got this....😎 https://youtube.com/shorts/-N1jnp4beNk?feature=share

Let's see if it works and what happen😎 Some wire surgery and it should be fine tomorrow 🙏

Having the auto quick function on the control panel, it is good to use it for convenience. If you really want to try it manually, choose a channel from 7 to 11 and focus on threshold stability.If you start listening to noise in the headphones without even moving the coil, switch to a lower channel.

Just a curiosity...Do you have the model without volume control on the headphone? In the past there was a much better performing pair but discontinued I think. Anyway, yes, having to listen completely submerged, with a hood over the ears, it is the only possible choice that of the amplified output.

I was forced to change shaft because using it to dive it was impossible to have the control box almost in front of the face🙄, but if you are standing and want to use the shorter length of the final, you can pour resin with hardener plugging the hole at the bottom. This should give you torsional rigidity but also increase weight ⛑️...

If you manually choose the channel, this operation can take effect in two ways. A higher channel ( 7 to 11) may be noisier, while a lower channel (1 to 7), create less interference. Precisely because it changes a frequency bias in motion. The theory is that at channel 1 there are lower frequencies and at the opposite on channel 11 there are higher frequencies. Mind you, I would add that in addition to being noisier and more unstable, higher frequencies also have less depth of effectiveness. I would keep to the 25Khz that is more or less on channel 7, but no one without an oscilloscope could really confirm. Around the ctx in spite of its age, there is still a shadow of mystery 🤐

This is a good question, but there is no single answer. If you think that the channel alone can affect only the type of target, you fall into error. I dwell on the fact that by activating the saltwater function, suddenly the ctx becomes super stable, necessarily cutting off the higher frequencies. Then it is not just one particular frequency, but a pair that compares on the signal. The channel in my opinion, shifts the kHz slightly for the purpose of not having wave interference and false signal, but it acts little on the size of the detected 🎯

I have a doubt...With a regular Grey Ghost underwater headset, should I use bonephone poles 4 and 5 or 1 and 2? 😪

At some point I decided to keep it short and finding an old pair of Grey Ghost Amphibians I had on the Ctx, I will adapt the connector of the BH-01s for an audio test. M8 connectors are available for absurd amounts of money and with cables already installed or females to cut. Having to insulate and resin all the poles and body before the thread, it is silly to buy one already wired, while the single piece from China takes a month to arrive in Europe...D a m n

50 bucks for the effort, at least🤭

After snatching a couple of hours at the day off for a session, I'm back to pissed off today. The Bh-01 headset to which an earpiece had exploded was barely able to transfer sound even at volume 9. Eventually with a gentle current but a constant wave motion, I was forced to look at the screen to figure out what was going on under the coil. That said I am about to set about building a piezo headphone and end of story🙄. I kindly ask anyone who has already discussed this topic, to direct me to the post link for the male connector and positive/negative pole diagram. I saved screenshots a while back, but can't find the folder on my pc. Thank you all in advance🙏

Wise choice, instead than to go crazy against bad conditions, better to drive elsewhere to another spot and help the odds.