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Snagged an upper shaft from Gerry, picked up a carbon lower shaft for the Nokta Makro machines and put the rest of my Seahunter parts on it. Little lighter, no wobble and nice comfy grip. Balance is just slightly nose heavy which should be perfect in the water as the larger coil would like to rise.

Fabricated this Nox arm muff after finding the stock flimsy one felt very uncomfortable after my Anfibio. Used the Anfibio as a pattern and its now a lot more comfortable and the xtra weight has helped the balance.

And it really is amazing, a genuine innovation by XP that others have copied, but none better than the original. Many owners probably own an XP as much for this collapsing rod system as anything else. Just slide it down and pop in your pack. Here is a new video from Gary going into more detail....

I know there's a long and old thread discussing this topic and other Equinox ergonomics but I decided not to bury this post there. In the last few months I've had some minor issues with the elbow on my swing arm ("tennis elbow" according to my doctor) but worse, recently I've been having wrist pain on the same arm. I don't know if the latter is related to detecting but it reminded me of the above linked discussion (and others) about S- vs. straight-shafts. I don't know if the mod I now describe is new. (After 2 years in the users' hands I would have thought not, but don't recall it on this site, anyway.) Here's a picture of the almost finished garage mod: In a nutshell, I've replaced the two lower sections of the Equinox shaft with the two lower sections of the Minelab X-Terra shaft. Now I'll start at the bottom and work my way up, describing the differences. Coil to shaft attachment: Surprisingly (because it seems like Minelab changes dimensions, etc. on every new detector) the gap between the ears is almost a perfect fit. It seems to be slightly looser with this mod, but that may be simply due to wear on the gaskets. I measured the shaft's widths and they are very close, possibly about 0.005 inches (~0.1 mm) different. Different gaskets or just a metal or plastic shim could tighten things up, but for now I'm not going to do that. Next is the screw/bolt and nut. The X-Terra had a nominal 1/4 inch diamter bolt while the Eqx is larger, (I think it's 8 mm, slightly larger than the SAE 5/16 inch). Again, until I find out otherwise I'm not going to be concerned about this as the smaller bolt goes through both parts just fine. Lower shaft section composition: The Eqx has a carbon fiber lower shaft section whereas the X-Terra has an aluminum shaft with a plastic extension/insert for the coil attachment section. I did a quick test-garden check and the mod didn't appear to give any deterioration in performance. 5 in. deep penny and 6 in. deep US nickel, in moderately mineralized soil, I could turn gain down to 5 and still (barely) hear both in Park 1, recovery speed = 5, Iron Bias F2 = 5. Again, at this point good enough for me. Middle shaft section: This is the S-section. The smaller diameter of this part is why you can't use the Equinox's lower section -- its diameter is too large to mate with the X-Terra S-section. Middle shaft section (X-Terra) to upper shaft section (Equinox) mating: This is where things get a bit more complicated. The O.D. of the X-Terra shafts is right at 3/4 (0.75) inch whereas the Equinox is ~0.78 in. This 0.03 (~3/4 mm) difference is not acceptable as is. I used 0.0015 in thick copper tape to build up the X-Terra shaft. The tape's adhesive adds some thickness as well. I needed 15 inch length of tape for a complete wrap to make up the difference. (Note: I'm going to add another equivalent wrap above the alignment pin as well, but as of now -- shown in the photo -- I only have the one wrap.) Next, note that the X-Terra has two alignment pins compared to the single one for the Equinox. Turns out they are 90 degrees out-of-phase. In addition, the pin size (and thus hole diameter required) is different, this time slightly larger on the X-Terra. I'm going to drill two opposing holes in the upper Equinox shaft. Again it appears that the X-Terra was made to SAE dimensions and a 1/4 inch hole is the right size. To make sure I don't get more hole than I need, and to avoid the sloppy 'triangular' hole that standard jobber drill bits tend to make in thin sheet metal, I've ordered a 1/4 inch reamer from Amazon for the job. Weight difference: The X-Terra lower sections and the attachement bolts & nuts are 80 g. (~2 2/3 oz. or ~0.2 lb) heavier than the equivalent Equinox pieces. I assume this is due at least in part to the carbon fiber composition but the tubing (and other pieces) may also be contributing. Potential concerns: I start by pointing out that I'm not a beach/water hunter. Apparently the drag, etc. in that form of detecting puts more mechanical stress on the connections and parts in general. In particular, drilling two more holes for the alignment pins in the upper section shaft (which unfortunately are located right at the same location as the already present hole) will result in a weakening of the shaft there. I don't think that will be an issue for me, but water hunters (who apparently prefer straight shafts anyway) could be scared away from this mod. I suppose one might be able to buy a replacement upper section from Minelab.... Those holes are the only thing that keeps this mod from being purely 100% reversible and assuming they don't result in future breakage, I have the best of both worlds. (Of course it helps to have an X-Terra sitting around collecting dust!)

I converted my GBP (Clone) to a telescopic carbon handle version. I used an carbon monopod for Camers (Rollei Citey traveller Mono bought for 20€). The grip, coil holder and arm rest parts were designed in Fusion 360. I made the display flippable (first of all to make the screws work). Now it fits in every rucksack. I'll upload the STL files to ThingyVerse next week.

In the thread about possible design improvements for the Equinox series, I said the breakdown of the three-piece shaft could be improved. It currently has two reasonably short upper parts, and one excessively long lower rod. To improve packing, the upper rods need to be a bit longer, and the lower rod shortened. Having done this exercise on my Fisher F75 shaft, I turned my design ideas to the Eqx. The upper rod obviously has the 'height', due to the control pod and lower stand, and this limits the compactness to 28cm / 11" in that direction. This is slightly larger than the coil, which measures 10.5" on its shortest diameter. The middle rod will pack diagonally, meaning it can be about 7cm / 2.5" longer than the upper rod. I also decided that the insertion overlaps of the lower rod, and the middle rod, could be reduced by a total of about 2.5cm / 1". So my design ended up with the upper shaft 2.5cm / 1" longer; the middle rod 2.5cm / 1" longer with 12mm / 0.5" less insertion; and the lower rod shortened by 80mm / 3.1" , with 12mm less insertion. Practically speaking, the upper rod was extended at the rear end with a bit of lathe work, with two new holes for the elbow-cup. The handgrip was moved back 2.5cm / 1", needing one new hole drilling. The middle rod was a bit more complex. I machined an extender piece that adds 33mm to the top end of the rod, trimmed 8mm off the insertion section, and moved the pip location hole 5mm towards the rod end. This makes the rod effectively 38mm longer, but only physically 25mm longer. Trimming 80mm off the carbon rod and making the new pip-hole 12mm closer to the end completes that job. The end result is the detector will pack in a 47cm x 28cm ( 18.5" x 11" ) space, see pic below. Individual rod lengths are: Upper = 47cm ; Lower & middle = 53.5cm ( 18.5" & 21" ) I ultimately intend making a new upper rod, with a bend below the handgrip, offsetting the coil and lower rod sections, which will deal with the twisting issue that's been previously discussed here and elsewhere.

I want everyone to know about the great service & advice I have received from Steve's Detector Rods! Yes there are other replacement rod companies out there but I can tell you that "steveg" stands by his product 100%. I had an issue with one of his older shafts. The bolt started to rust. As soon as Steve found out, he ordered a higher grade stainless and sent me one free of charge! On my couter-weighted Equinox shaft, I dropped it and busted the counter-weight off and Steve as soon as I contacted Steve about purchasing a replacement, he sent it out that day! He is very easy to communicate issues or questions and I can't say enough good things for how he has helped me out!

My arms are long and skinny. I have a good amount of slop when swinging that I would like to improve. Even with a jacket! I see some folks use padding on the cuff. Would like to see or get some ideas to try. I know there is an option out there off the shelf but was looking for a DIY idea where I could customize to my arm if possible. Thanks.

Hi, just though this was worth sharing as it turned out so well. A number of things happened to bring this together - the biggest one being having just bought an Equinox my neighbours changing their curtains for blinds. I ended up with 3x6ft lengths of wood curtain pole. I also (long story) smashed my right hand up some years ago in a bike crash - straight stem won't work for me. I had read the threads (various threads on straight vs S) and puzzled over the alloy pipe bending method. But then I already have a Mars universal shaft and took a closer look at this. After reading the thread on the Garrett gizmo that screws into the end of the stem so the arm cup can be moved along I got to thinking some more - I don't own a Garrett but am always intrigued to read what others are up to. So the Mars universal shaft will come apart. Held by a holding screw and with some hard pushing and pulling the arm cup pole (I'll call it that) will release. I measured the length I needed, then by hand whittled the shape to Mars flat sided (not round). A tight fit and the holding screw back in place to hold. The strength of this part of the Mars hand grip (the bit under the hand grip) left me confident that it could cope with some pretty minimal stresses - like it would have to do anyway. The curtain pole hand whittled at the arm cup end, then drilled through with a slightly under size drill bit. I didn't note the size, but it waggled freely in the Equinox upper stem hole for the arm cup. As I drilled it I waggled the drill to make it a little splayed out (as is the shape of the plastic fitting in the arm cup bits). For the Equinox itself a similar blind hole, but on an angle (judged by eye) as per the angled shape of the Minelab underneath grip bit - and also drill waggled around to get the splayed out shape. Two lines of wood were whittled away to the correct diameter for the equinox and it lower grip to meet perfectly. It could be neatened up. I may spray it black. Some things considered were the Equinox grip needed to be far enough away from the Mars grip to allow fingers of winter (thick) gloved hands - and also the coil cable and head phone cable. The Mars shaft can be made to shorten - and in effect smash into the back of the Equinox unit. I would just put a wrap of tape around the release lever. I won't ever release it - I don't need to I have a long detector bag - but I guess somebody could. Weight for weight the wood pole is pretty light. I weighted the Minelab top piece of shaft, and my piece of wood was 14 grams heavier. The next step (which I am waiting to arrive) is a proper Minelab Equinox lower stem end piece for the coil to go on, The Mars universal one is a bit narrow and this looks it will swap over fairly easily.

I decided to see if I could balance out the Nox without too much time or $ involved. So far I'm at $7 and we'll see if this will even pan out. First, I moved my control box forward 11/2" moved my armrest forward as far as possible and added some ballast at the very back. I used 9 3/4" washers, with a piece of 3/4 round stock in the center as a bushing. I ran a 1/4" hole thru the bushing and mounted it in the last armrest hole. I'll see if the extra weight is worth trying to balance the machine just a little bit more tomorrow when I take it for spin.

Today I went to shorten the rod by one notch to put the coil closer to my feet for water hunting. I have been hunting, both in and out of the water with a length more suited to wet sand sweeping. It was very difficult to get the locking mechanism loosened up so I could slide the rod. Same issue I've had before with similar locking mechanisms when used in salt water; particularly with fine sediment in the water. Please change to a different type of locking mechanism. The one in the first picture is the AQ, and I do not like it since it is already freezing up and took a lot of work to free it up. The second picture is an after market straight shaft with locks that work very well and don't freeze up. The last two pictures are of locks on my wife's shell / shark tooth scoop with the lock open and closed; this one works well and also does not freeze up after much sand and salt water use.

The first aftermarket shaft I got for my Equinox was a Golden mask telescoping shaft. The early version took a lot of crude adapting to make work. Later versions had custom adapters made for a more finished product. I also ended up getting a TeleNox telescoping rod. https://www.detectorprospector.com/forums/topic/6247-equinox-golden-mask-shaft-conversion/ https://www.detectorprospector.com/forums/topic/8628-new-minelab-micronox/ https://www.detectorprospector.com/forums/topic/10299-tele-nox-rods/ https://www.detectorprospector.com/forums/topic/10716-aftermarket-shafts-for-in-water-use/ Between the two they are both fine but I like the Golden Mask version a little more. A bit stouter, no flex, and less levers and other moving parts. The plus for the Telenox is it is directly compatible with the Equinox rod size and therefore the pod/handle swaps over with no fuss. The Golden Mask requires the adapter and its own armrest due to the larger rod diameter. The Telenox starts with the smaller rod and so the last section is thinner than with the Golden Mask, which starts with a larger diameter rod (a need for adapter) but then ends with a larger diameter rod section also. There was a final Golden Mask kit you could buy that had everything you need, but now it seems to be no longer available. EDIT 8/14/22 - A new version of the Golden Mask rod appears to be available now, bolt on ready, no fuss, and a great price here! Here is the alternate non-folding version So what did I do a while back? I know much better than to ever leave my detector leaning on the rear end of my truck. But I did it anyway and backed over the detector. Right over the pod. Crushed the handle completely! A testament to the Equinox is after I pried the pod out of the ground it still worked. I had to clamp and glue the lower part of the face back to the housing later but it is still working fine. But the rod was a total loss. All I scavenged was the adapter parts and the armrest. With no more Golden Mast complete assembly available, after lots of Googling I found what looked like a possible replacement rod and took a gamble and ordered it. If nothing else I figured I would end up with a new walking stick. $46 delivered from Amazon. I got lucky - seems to be the same rod, except if anything of higher quality. I peeled off the foam hand grip and removed the last rod section, which is too small and makes it too long anyway. I am lucky in that I have a lot of Equinox lower rods sitting around, because I had to cut and grind the part needed to bolt this rod to a coil from a spare lower rod. That could be a tad expensive otherwise. I glued it into the lower rod opening, drilled the new armrest holes and bolted it on, and used the adapter to add the Equinox pod/handle. Finished item is probably a little nicer than what I ran over, same exact length, etc. That worked out quite well and at $46 a lot cheaper than if I had been able to find a new Golden mask assembly. But like I said, I had all the other parts required. If you get this rod, the Equinox handle and armrest will not adapter directly to it without additional adapters. Bonus is I have a nice case for the rod when not in use, and an adapter sticking out of the end that I am going to use to create a removable coil counterweight. Not needed at all for the 6" coil, but nice for the larger coils. Custom carbon fiber telescoping rod for Minelab Equinox 2 lbs 10 oz x 20” long Custom carbon fiber telescoping rod for Minelab Equinox

I am one of those people who have always found the armrest of the Garrett Ace and AT models to be just a hair short for my liking. This would include what I’m seeing on the new Ace Apex. Years ago a guy was making and selling an item called the Garrett Gizmo, a machined metal extension for the armrest. It not only made the armrest longer but acted as a counterweight making the detectors less nose heavy. Unfortunately he must of machined up a limited number, as there are no recent internet references that I can find. It seems to have disappeared. Does anyone know where to get one of these or something like it? If not, here is an accessory sales opportunity for somebody. Garrett Gizmo

Today I had a look at the shaft that my father put together for his 800. I thought it turned out very well, so I thought I would take a few pictures to share here. We looked at a few options but ultimately thought a true one piece shaft was best and easiest. Based on a previous conversation I had with an experienced water hunter on here, we figured it would be alright to run the carbon fiber almost all the way to the coil. The lower fiberglass factory shaft was cut down to about 6" and secured into the inanimate carbon tube with epoxy. This, along with the lack of clamps really reduced the weight. A couple of holes for the armrest and pod completed the project. Looks like he even got the button on the end of the shaft too. I will be doing something similar with mine, although I still think I want to try a kevlar shaft just for fun as it is basically transparent to RF. I'm in the process of finding one with the right diameters tonight. The main thing for me is to get the 0.875" O.D. (~22mm) to fit the pod, i can modify the lower piece if need be, or print a new one. I'll also tilt the handle a little bit towards myself. I love this because it is light and simple.

I was just on eBay looking around at some old purchases I had made and one was from Miner John. I clicked on the transaction and I see there are some 'live' products available. That is good to see after I understand he was wiped out by the fire. Has anyone tried this stand? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Minelab-Gold-Monster-1000-pro-detector-stand-also-fit-Minelab-Equinox-600-800/202877933766 I saw another stand on a thread sometime here over the last year that would fold. Does anyone use a folding stand? I don't have a Monster. I don't know how Minelab would let a detector be sold that twists and turns so much when you put it on the ground. Every video I've seen shows this problem of securing it while you get the little nuggets out of the scoop.

A few weeks ago, I started conversing with Steveg (www.stevesdetectorrods.com) about building me a complete carbon fiber shaft replacement with counterweight attachment for my Equinox 800. Well it arrived today, and I thought I would share my impressions. First of all, let me say that the entire process of ordering a shaft from Steve was absolutely wonderful! Extremely thoughtful, articulate, and maybe most importantly, timely communications. From the very first email, I felt I was valued as a customer, and that Steve truly cared not only about me, but about the product he produces as well. The shaft arrived today via priority mail, and was very well packaged. I ordered the bright blue option because, hey, I like blue! The material is stunning, and the workmanship on the shaft is impeccable. Fit and finish are gorgeous. The Equinox weight before disassembly came in at 1354 grams with the stock shaft and stock coil. The stock shaft components on their own weigh 295 grams, while the new carbon fiber shaft weighs 225 grams without the counterbalance. Final weight of the detector with the new shaft sans counterbalance is 1284 grams, for a 70 gram weight reduction. Assembling the Equinox components onto the new shaft was a piece of cake. All the hole locations for mounting the components were perfectly aligned and properly sized, and the cam-lock hardware works flawlessly. The 70 gram difference is very noticeable when swinging the detector, but it really starts to shine when you add the counterbalance attachment. With the stock coil, swinging becomes almost effortless and the balance is such that the coil feels weightless. It really is quite amazing! My shoulder and neck are already thanking me.? And there is no wobble or flex in the shaft at all. If you are looking for an upgrade to your Equinox, I can't recommend this enough! And doing business with Steve is truly a joy. My only regret is I don't have another detector to upgrade! When I do, I'll be giving Steve a call! Bash says, run, don't walk, to your computer or phone, and order one for yourself! You won't regret it!

Me! I'm the automated assembly line. Only 1700 more to assemble. I can't keep up with orders. Your dealers should have more this week if you have been waiting for the SAGA™. I can't tell you how over the moon excited my wife is that I have completely taken over our dining room table. (Not really.) I have not seen any field reports from people who have purchased the Swing Assist Guide Arm yet. I would love to hear some news. Thanks gang! Doc

Hey gang, How many of you have old or extra lower rod to an SD/GP/GPX Excalibur, Sovereign laying around? The reason I ask is because I am getting a lot of interest in the SAGA™ from overseas, especially AUSTRALIA. however, the big bug-a-boo, is the cost of shipping. Because the package is over 24 inches long the postal service charges an enormous surcharge. Shipping for one SAGA rod is literally $66. I about choked. Now it just so happens, I was thinking ahead on this issue, and I made the SAGA so it would also use a spare fiberglass rod from an SD/GP/GPX Excalibur Sovereign etc. It fits perfectly. If an international customer could supply their own rod, I could just send a parts bag including a 1 ounce tube of Silicone sealant to glue the handle on and shipping would only be $32. USD. And get this, if a customer ordered two parts packages, the shipping would still only be $32 shipping for two packages. So if you had a mate that wanted a SAGA, you could share the cost of shipping. The only thing the customer would have to do is cut off the head of the rod they have where it attaches to the coil. The other end has the adjustment button which on most if not all Minelab lower rods is metal. That's not good because that adjustment button end is the part that goes into the SAGA pivot joint close to the coil. However, I would just include a plastic button to replace the Minelab metal button. So bottom line is I wonder how many people have those extra lower rods laying around or how readily available they are and if offering that option of the parts bag would be more attractive for an international customers than paying $66 for shipping? I know I wouldn't pay $66 USD for shipping. Actually the same goes for U.S. it cuts shipping from around $12 on a package going to New York to about $6, by eliminating the rod. It only makes sense if you have an extra rod laying around, if you have to buy a rod especially for that reason Minelab charges $42 for a lower fiberglass rod. Really interested in hearing from forum members in Australia. Doc

On the TDI Pro the upper handle was a bolt on assembly with separate part numbers The prototype models has a straight shaft, and the production models an S shaft. In either case you could remove the handle via four bolts to hip or chest mount the control box. Since the production models went S shaft, there were aftermarket straight shafts. Here is the Anderson aftermarket straight shaft for the TDI Pro: https://www.seriousdetecting.com/product/anderson-whites-tdi-metal-detector-black-carbon-fiber-shaft/ Does anyone have any part numbers for the original TDI upper handle? The SL models the handle does not normally separate (attaches from inside the control box) and so only White’s or White’s dealers would have access to the part number for the upper straight shaft or S shaft. The straight middle shaft 500-0288-1 or S shaft 802-5213 is standard on many whites detectors, and there is a “tall man” version 500-0240-1 of the S shaft. Does anyone know or have access to part numbers for the handle on the TDI SL, either straight or S shaft? The TDI Beachunter uses a removable shaft that can probably be retrofitted to the SL models with some drilling. This appears to be the White’s Diver Rod Kit, part # 802-5195-1, with straight middle shaft 500-0288-1 added, and may retrofit to the SL with some drilling. White’s Diver Rod Kit One of the best deals going in a rod assembly for years has been the Whites Space Saver Rod Kit for Classics and Early Goldmaster models, part number 802-5236. This may also retrofit the the SL and is in any case a good way to get some Whites Rod parts cheap. While they last. White’s Space Saver Rod Kit If anyone has any information they can add about any TDI model rod or shaft parts, now would be a great time to archive it while it’s still halfway easy to track down.

If you think the SAGA™ is just a Swing Arm, it's not. It's a steering wheel for your detector. Start at the 3-minute mark on the video, and watch what the unique design of the SAGA can make your detector do. If you know of any device on the market that gives you this kind of control please let me know, because I know of nothing that even comes close. If what you see intrigues you then watch the entire video. You're going to find that the SAGA will make detecting much easier and less stressful on your body and give you control over your detector you have never had before. - Doc

I'm not going to bore you with the details of the first attempt. Valuable exercise because the New SAGA™ really is exceptional, if I don't say so myself. If you currently use a Swing Arm, you will throw it away when you use this one. • No more breakage at the pivot point where Swing Arms attach to the detector. The SAGA™ is designed with a pivot point that allows for the typical movement that allows you to swing the arm out and away from the detector, but it also is designed with a rotating Pivot Joint that allows for up and down movement of the arm. This eliminates breakage, but it also gives you better control over the coil on your detector. (Watch the 2nd video start at 6:30 minutes) • No more wishing there was a Swing Arm that would fit your detector with it's weird shaped rod (SDC2300). Nothing could be more weird than the upper part of a GPZ7000, yet look at the picture to see how well it fits even that weird shape. The unique design of the attachment base, allows you to easily attach it to regular round rods, or irregular shaped large rods, depending on how you thread the UV resistant rubber straps. • No more trying to store the arm, if you need your hand to do something else. The SAGA™ has a proper storage clip. • Feel like detecting without the Swing Arm for a while? No worries! Push a button remove the rod and handle from your detector and stow it away until you decide to use it again. • You're a tall person and you like the rod long, or you're a short person and like the rod short? Got you covered. You can easily trim the rod to the perfect length then glue the handle on with the included 1 ounce tube of silicone sealant. If you have never used a Swing Arm, well, you are spending a lot of energy swinging one handed and you are unnecessarily stressing one side of your body, your arm, neck, and shoulders. When you take a walk, do you use both legs or do you hop on one? If you are hopping around all day, that one leg is getting mighty tired. That's why using your muscles bi-laterally helps fight fatigue and strain. Not only that, but you will never have so much control over your detector. You will execute perfectly level controlled swings effortlessly, when you are using both hands. Watch the videos to better understand the unique design of the Swing Assist Guide Arm. It's the last Swing Arm you will ever need, or want! Retail $74.94 Discounted Introductory price $59.95 plus s&h Watch the videos below. On the second video go to around 6:30 minutes mark to see the kind of control the SAGA™ gives you over your detector. Call your favorite dealer today! Thank you for your patience and all of your suggestions. Doc

I know Jeff’s been making these for long time but I just had to mention how impressed I am w his work. I don’t know why I never got one of these for the Explorer or Etrac but sure glad I got it for the Safari! I really like the stand too, it’s a lot wider, keeps the machine from falling over and puts it a little higher too. I’ll probably take the factory stand off,,, eventually.

It was the last straw for a detector that tips over on any and every bit uneven ground. It actually worked not so bad. If anybody needs to just get through the day, you could give this a try. Fifty cents of nylon braided rope, a juniper branch, and some good, old-fashioned Boy Scout lashing. Just make sure the frapping is good and snug. It might work even slightly better to carve a groove for the shaft into the stick. If it loosens a little, just re-frap and you’re good to go. Yes, there are more elegant manufactured versions available, but isn’t the saying “frustration is the mother of invention”?

I think I'm going to need to invest in the tall man lower shaft for this E trac, I'm 6' 4" and I have the lower shaft extended as far as it can go and its wobbly now ....