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So, just one more issue during my Outing... I have been in the habit of tossing my ferrite on the ground...foolish me. They break into many pieces...so no more tossing... I wonder if the ring can be super glued back to one piece and function correctly? Or is it more like a metal ring that no longer gives the same signal once the circle is broke? Or do I need a new one? so many questions.... fred

I haven't done a story on a gold find for a while, partly because once you find a patch with a bunch of nuggets everything else seems pretty insignificant, a couple of months ago I did just that, it's only my second patch but had quite a number of nuggets, I'd guess at least 40 (Correction: at least 80 nuggets) and over 30 grams in total. I lost count of both the nuggets and the grams we got out of it in the end. I did take a couple of videos on the first and second day of it, after that I stopped filming and just worried about detecting as filming videos is very time consuming and wastes valuable detecting time 🙂 That patch has been the highlight of my detecting time and hopefully I can find another in the future, I'll put links to the videos for anyone that wants to watch them and hasn't seen them already. https://youtu.be/qs-e8HO7xdU https://youtu.be/tppU5XZe77o Now to the more recent adventure, one of the most common gold spots I've been to is being developed, very soon it will no longer exist, already a large area of it has disappeared over the past few months with more to go yet, seeing it's probably the closest gold spot to home and one I've found a reasonable amount of gold before so it will be missed greatly. It's obviously getting extremely hard to find gold there as it's not a huge area really and it's been done a lot over the years by a number of people being an obvious spot to look. My focus on this day was to take advantage of how well the GPZ and Concentric coil handles EMI to hunt almost exclusive in and around the power lines where people including myself with previous setups were unable to really detect very well, especially with my GPX 4500, it was terrible near the power lines, and what inspired me to try out a QED which ended up working quite well under the power lines but just didn't have the power of the GPZ. I didn't take all that many photos as my aim was to get some video, I always struggle to get gold finds on video as I just use my phone to film and I have to put it down to do the recovery 🙂 I have a GoPro but just haven't bothered to use it yet. I went to some bedrock and worked my way up digging every signal and recording and deleting all the recordings as they were turning out to be shotgun pellets, this is entirely normal in this area as it has a big rabbit plague and shooters love spreading their pellets around all over the place for me to dig back up again. Here is a video of the first gold find, a .109 of a gram nugget, I was pretty happy with that to start the day as often at this location I go home empty handed. I didn't get the entire thing on video and I had my detector in difficult from when I was messing around the other day doing some testing and didn't check my settings, I'd never normally use difficult in my soil as Normal works just fine. Fortunately it didn't prevent me finding the gold, or the numerous pellets before it Once I'd finished that bedrock area I walked up under the power lines to detect hoping I'd find something others couldn't get, I took a little video there of how the detector was working under the lines, I really love how well the GPZ handles power lines seeing they're in many of my gold areas. You'll also notice at the end of the video the millions of bits of rabbit poo on the ground, this is the reason for the shotgun pellets everywhere. You'll notice in the video I discover I'm in difficult and seem a bit surprised, this is when I worked out I may have wasted the past hour detecting in difficult and it went through my head now I'll have to go check that bedrock again 😛 I was quite happy at that point I took the video or I may not have noticed for the rest of the day. I started detecting along under the power lines and ended up in a little area I don't think I've been into before, I'm terrible with directions and locations so it's quite possible I have been there before and don't remember it but it didn't look familiar, I was still recording every target dig to try get a gold find on video and managed to do it, I think this might be my first time ever getting one from start to finish on video, quite happy with that. And a couple of photos of it. And my lucky last nugget of the day if you could call it that was a 0.038 of a gram nugget, very shallow on some bedrock, it took me about 20 minutes to recover this one, but I only got a portion of it on video, I kept moving it around but couldn't pick it up, I had no idea where it was in the cleared area, I was wishing I had a VLF with me with tiny coil to narrow it down. I'd imagine there are quite a lot of these little guys around it's just the amount of pellets you'd have to dig to find them would be crazy. I do it more for the challenge but the novelty wears off after digging a massive amount of pellets and not finding any nuggets and if you ignore the pellets you'll miss these little bits of gold. So here are the 3 little bits for the day and the weights All a bit of good fun, I really enjoy chasing these little bits especially after the first one pops up to get you into gear looking for more. I can't compete with the photos lately out of Alaska for gold though, I'm just glad I can do the hobby near home and find a few bits to keep me happy. Here is a little tour video of where I was detecting. Keep in mind to run these coils you need to have an adapter and that involves cutting the end off your existing GPZ coil and making an adapter out of it, it should only ever be taken on by someone very skilled at electronics or really the best thing to do is get a professional to make the adapter for you to avoid any problems.

I change coils more than most, in fact I've changed coils 10 times in a day when testing out various coils on bits of gold, by doing this I'd caused myself some lower shaft wobble, it turns out I'd cracked part of a clip on the shaft, the clip with the little rubber pad had a crack in it, so the shaft wasn't holding on tight. I suspect the people that had upper shaft issues where it wobbles a bit have either got the same crack on the pressure pad or they've just worn the little bit of rubber out. Fortunately it's a very easy and cheap fix. Here are the part numbers for the clip mechanism X2 8008-0056 Pressure blocks X1 8008-0072 Camlock lever X1 4308-0033 Pin The part I'd broken was the pressure blocks. They come in a twin pack for replacement and are very easy to replace. You dismantle the clip by removing the pin, I used a small screw driver to push it out of the clip. You then just use a small flat head screw driver to lever them off, pushing each side of the pressure block away from the camlock lever as pictured below. This is the shaft with the clip removed. You can see the grooves cut out of it where the pressure pads need to slide into so when reassembling made sure they're straight so they fit into the groove. You can see the little circular lump on the left hand side pressure pad, it's what goes into that dug out groove. This is how the rubber pads look, I guess they can wear out over time and if they do your shaft would be wobbly. Minelab sell all the parts individually, so you can just order what you need for the repair. They were very helpful with me, and had me solved by the next day using express shipping. I bought a heap of the little parts so I have spares seeing I change coils so often. In my case I just needed the pressure blocks, the pin and camlock lever were obviously fine. So if anyone's putting up with some shaft wobble, it's cheap and simple to fix.

I've read a few posts from those who have both and their input is pretty much what I expected. Having fun (especially with others) is the majority of why I enjoy detecting. Only a select few actually do it for a living and do well. The rest of us (me included), enjoy the hunt, adventures, comradery with like minded friends, and getting some gold on occasion. It's looking like the GPX-6000 is getting the majority of gold better than the GPZ-7000. So, is the extra weight worth the rare occasional big nugget? Lets go a step farther. Say the ZED hits a 4 ounce nugget at 34". Will the 6000 hit that same nugget at 30", 32" 33" or 34". Say it's 2" less and only gets the chunk at 32". It's still near 3' deep which is deeper than most folks enjoy digging and or most other detectors out there. So the reality for most folks, the GPX-6000 at a cost savings of $2000 and over 2 pounds lighter, better ergonomics, no more tethered into a harness, more user friendly, real wireless Bluetooth phones, is the best option for most. Like I said in another post. There should be a convoy of GPZ users heading down the highway to get the new GPX-6000 and having more fun, more gold more often. I can help make that smile happen. Anyone have a point I am missing or totally off, please chime in. Pic of the nugget will probably only be a few inches in depth difference between the 6 and 7. But the majority of us would probably hear if with both machines at 30 or more.

Hey Guys, I figured we can stir the pot just a little while we wait out the release of the Minelab GPX 6000, right? That being said, Minelab still claims the GPZ 7000 can get "up to 40% more depth" over previous GPX detectors. We can all question, does the GPX 6000 still fit in this category, as Minelab stated GPX detectors. The upcoming Minelab GPX 6000 is still a GPX series detector, but primarily using GeoSense Technology. I don't see where GeoSense really talks about any more depth ability over the previous GPX 5000, but it does mention about better ground response/clarity, maybe allowing you to hear something in higher mineralized ground over previous GPX series. I don't claim to be an expert electronic prospector, but my specialty is in detecting for gold nuggets with the best detectors available. We call all talk about how much gold we found, years of experience, regions we hunted and such ..... The bottom line is I still feel the Minelab GPZ 7000 is the KING of detectors when it comes to depth. Many Australian, African and US prospecting friends still feel the same. I personally have found many large gold nuggets and specimens at max depth where I doubt any detector with a similar sized searchcoil would have found. I also know that probably 1% or less of those large gold nuggets/specimens are out there still and the ones at max depth range of the current detector technology. Does this justify the purchase of a Minelab GPZ 7000 over the upcoming GPX 6000, or should GPZ 7000 owners dump their units now? These are questions I personally can't advise anyone on, but it's something to consider when you make a purchase of a metal detector in the thousands of dollar range. What I can leave you with is my personal experience over the last 25 years chasing gold nuggets .... If you are in areas where there has been historically large gold nuggets, overburden to bedrock/paylayer/caliche/false bedrock that can be several feet and deeper in depth, you might seriously consider either holding your current GPZ 7000 or consider a purchase of one at some point. I personally will not be parting with my trusty GPZ 7000, we have a 5+ year personal relationship. We have been through tough times, bad weather, I even yelled at her and dropped her a few times! Like Steve mentioned before, you could actually fall in love with your detector. Wishing you all much success with whatever detector(s) you swing. P.S. Below is a recent GPZ 7000 find, max depth, just a break in the threshold (yes the GPZ 7000 has one). Nearly a pound in weight (uncleaned in picture) Rob

I’ve been following the battle between the old dog (GPZ-7000) and young dog (GPX-6000) with keen interest.. From what I can make of it, the young dog’s winning its battles in the USA and the old dog in Australia.. So far it seems the old dog can handle a scruff on heavily mineralized and ‘hot rock’ infested grounds better than the young dog, who prefers milder grounds.. But it’s too early in the day to scorn the young dog, it’s only just finding its feet in the world.. The old dog might’ve fought it out with other GPXs and always come out on top, but this young dog seems to have more sense of geology than its cousins.. Maybe a few more dust-ups in the old dog’s yard might do the young dog some good.. Or maybe the old dog won’t let the young dog anywhere near its yard no more? Maybe they should flog it out on neutral grounds somewhere, another 'Rumble in the Jungle'? Only time will tell who emerges Top Dog of the World , as with most other dog fights.. Hackles come up and fur starts to fly..

Has anyone had any issues with their coil chip failing? l bought a second hand 19” coil for my GPZ and it worked fine for several months and then out of the blue, it failed. Minelab suggested that I buy a new coil. After a bit of research I decided to have a dongle made up from my 14” coil and now 12 or so months later the chip in the dongle has failed. Am I doing something wrong? Is there a problem with the detector or am I just very unlucky?

Hello gentlemen, finally someone from the Australian guys made an honest comparison

If this has been posted here already I missed it, sorry. But, wow...

I am starting this thread to ask the folks who have used both to give their thoughts, opinions, comparisons and experiences with both. I have only seen JP and Rob post on the Nugget Finder coil and have only seen it in action on the Outback Gold Fever Channel. We all know that the 6000 blows away any competition with weight and ergonomics, but would still like to know if it gets any closer to this with Z and the 12”. Performance wise is really what I am after and these two sizes are only an inch apart, but 2 different techs. I am on the fence, do I buy a new coil for my Z or sell/save for a 6000? I am truly in the middle on this based on my terrain, age and gold I am after. My terrain: is the woods and broad gulches. There is always overburden and vegetation so I need the power to bust through that to get to the start of the bedrock erosional surface and hopefully close bedrock. However, wearing a harness does not work and is cumbersome for detecting in this environment, its never flat so you never feel the help from a bungy, its pointless for this area. My age: is 45 and I can go about 5-6 hours max before being whipped, thats not just from detecting but digging and hiking in and out too, so I know as age goes on the hours will be less but new tech could come out too. My gold: is sub grammers, that is the majority. We have hit larger pieces but the bread and butter is sub grammers and the Z is getting them through all that overburden but I am not sure if the GPX6000 would. So my “dream” detector would be ZVT tech in a compactable SDC form with interchangable coils, light and ergonomic. Is that to hard to ask? 😂😂😂😂 So, in the interim, it’s either a lighter coil for the GPZ that supposedly is more sensitive and can get a little deeper and reduce the weight for non bungy users OR a new detector that is lighter, that is also more sensitive at least on surface gold, that we have seen so far, but has the possibility as more reviews come out to see if you can actually hit small gold at depth like a GPZ. Can’t have both, the coil I could afford, The GPX would require selling off the Z. I also don’t have the ability to drive to the closest dealer that would have both in AZ. Thats a two day drive one way. So please, if you may, would love feedback on this vs the two. In the end it sure helps me out and probably many others too. Thanks!

It’s exciting when a new detector emerges, none more so than a new top notch gold getting machine from Minelab and the new GPX 6000 is as exciting as it gets. Just a little reminder about the virtues of the GPZ/14” an older brother he may be a little thick in the middle but this heavyweight can still sniff out a few crumbs in the pounded terrain in the desert of Gold Basin Arizona, from a few recent hunts.

Well I'm laying over in northern Nevada for some detecting before heading back to Idaho and my summer job, and decided to go revisit an old dink patch with the GPZ 7000 this afternoon. Since I've hit this place pretty hard, I figured I better use a higher sensitivity setting to see if it would light up some bits that were missed last time using a lower sensitivity that helped keep the alkali rich ground feedback under control. Needless to say, I had to move the coil painfully slow over the really noisy areas, but the extra sensitivity started working its magic right away, as I got a faint but repeatable little wobble. Digging down about 3 inches or so revealed the first little bit of yellow. 🙂 Soon there was another signal a few yards upslope; another shiny golden bit, this time a little deeper. I couldn't help but wonder at this point how much deeper the new GPX 6000 will be able to snag dinks like these, and how many the Zed is leaving behind. 🤔 Guess I'll find out when I finally get mine. Just then I was awakened from my wonderings by a sharp response from the Zed; sounding pretty shallow, the tiny target was out from under a bush with just a boot scrape. And I mean tiny! One more golden goodie sitting on bedrock ended a splendid, sunny afternoon in the goldfields. Total weight of todays finds, zero point six of a gram. Good luck out there!

what going on with nugget finder and the new coil for the GPZ

Well I have now gone through a second GPZ stock coil cover. Has anyone tried out the Nugget Finder coil cover for the 14x13 and if so how have you liked it? I am either looking at one of these or somehow modifying my stock cover to extend the life. If the stock covers were only $10 I could justify the reoccurring cost but at almost $50 ..not really. Thanks

Just the other day, I reached my goal of digging 100 Arizona gold nuggets with the GPZ 7000 this winter. Nothing of much size - the largest weighing in at only 5 grams - but even the tiniest bits are a thrill to find. As usual, I was targeting well known and flogged placer areas, working in and around the old dry-blow diggings. All up, 1.78 ounces troy. It will be interesting to see how much the GPX 6000 increases the number of nuggets found in this size range next season...only time will tell. Good luck out there!

As far as a carry case, Beatup came up with a great idea for the 7000. It's a double snowboard bag, 158cm fits the collapsed 7000 perfect. Not a hard case mind you, but it's padded with waterproof luggage type exterior and heavy duty zippers. It offers some protection bouncing around in my RZR, I bungee it to my overhead rack so there is still room for all the other gear in the rear compartment. I'll try and find the website if anyone is interested.

https://youtu.be/W1Eq9pSOHT8

Well, I have been getting in the hours and have wore out my GPZ 7000 scuff cover / coil cover / skidplate. New genuine Minelab covers are like everything else GPZ rare as hen's teeth. Part number 3011-0286 and very few places on the internet can be found that advertise having them in stock. $62 retail, and Ft. Bedford claims to have them in stock for $48 http://www.fortbedfordmetaldetectors.com/minelab-gpz7000-14x13-coil-cover Miner John has an aftermarket coil at http://razorbackcoils.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/5908106 that Chris alerted us to back in May http://www.detectorprospector.com/forum/topic/930-gpz-7000-coil-cover-available/ for about the same price. It is twice as thick and has fewer slots that would let dirt get in between the coil and scuff cover. Has anyone tried these out and can report on them?

Hey All. I have been researching this last month or so throughout Detector Prospector, Minelab's Knowledge Base and TreasureTalks so that I can take my skills with the GPZ to the next level and I think in order to do that it involves these 4 settings: Threshold, Sensitivity, Volume and Volume Limit. A lot of forum members talk about these comparing and contrasting, but none really give you a "How to." How do you go about adjusting these to reach perfection, to reach that perfect ZVT zen. Conclusions that I have read are that: it just depends on what you want to hear, or how you hear what is coming out of the detector. OK, but I think it is more to it than that, and if you don't understand what these controls do how can you really achieve the best results. Keeping these setting the same. Noise Canceled. Gold Mode: High Yield. Ground Type: Normal. Ground Balanced with Semi Auto. No filters - Audio nor Ground Smoothing. Lets talk about how we start. Here is what I have researched and summed up describing these controls. These are my "interpretations" based on everything I have read and I think I really have a grasp on it now. This information and dissemination of it came from everyone here, and I mean everyone! Huge Thank You! Sensitivity: aka Gain. Control of the INPUT "strength" of a "sound wave." You don't actually control how "sensitive" the coil is. ZVT is ZVT, that is the tech we are using In order to understand these controls I think of it like a "sound wave". What you control is the "sound wave" coming into the machine. Too much gain and you over modulate the sound wave, cause distortion, and increase the "noise" level. Too little gain and your "sound wave" is decreased (like making it a flatter line) maybe allowing large "sounds" to come through but in return lowering the "noise" level and small "sounds." In Sensitivity is where you want to produce the "perfect sound wave" coming into the machine. You want that sound wave to just barely reach below a distortion level to get the best "sound or tone" Threshold: This is how much of the "noise" level you want to hear. It kind of acts like a bottom or "noise" filter. Increase threshold (lower number on GPZ) and you filter out more of the "noise" level as well as small "sounds." The opposite is to lower threshold (increase number on the GPZ) to filter out less of the "noise" level and hear smaller "sounds." These two setting should play off of each other so that you can achieve the "biggest window" for the ZVT "sound wave" to operate in with the least amount of "noise". Some people use a 20 sensitivity and a 7 threshold. Is that the biggest window they could achieve? Some do a 15 sensitivity and a 27 threshold. Is that the biggest window they could achieve? How come you could not do a 1 sensitivity and a 53 threshold? Nobody has ever commented on that. Boost it? Probably not a good idea. I don't know, never tried. Food for thought, but I hope you get what I am saying about that. In my eyes these two controls are where you should start. Achieve the biggest "window" that ZVT can work with. If you minimize the window you are not taking advantage of the full technology. In turn you are probably not finding the smallest pieces you could achieve or the greatest depth on targets. Don't limit ZVT, maximize it to its full potential. Open the window as far as you can for the ground/mineralization you are in. Now on to Volume and Volume Limit This is where I do not have the best grasp on these controls, even after all the research I am not sure if I am describing these correct. So many people play off of these and have different explanations. This is what I "think" they mean. Volume: aka Audio Boost. Control of the OUTPUT "loudness" of the Threshold and Sensitivity window that you just created. We are told that this acts like an audio boost and that increasing this by one is like increasing Sensitivity by 2, etc. I don't think that is a good way to describe it, at least for me. What I think Volume is doing is increasing the loudness of the "window." Than includes the "sound wave" as well as the "noise" associated with it. If you can not hear the targets you want after adjusting your "window" above, then you need to boost the audio. Doing this though will increase what you hear in "noise" and I "think" this is why some describe this as equivalent to increasing Sensitivity but it is not. The "window" has already been set with your Threshold and Sensitivity, what volume does is change the OUTPUT "loudness" and there by multiplies how big the window is ("sound wave" and "noise"). This allows you to hear hear more, but more of EVERYTHING, in affect increasing overall loudness. This is why it should be used "conservatively." Start at 1 and work up until it is where you "like" hearing it. This is the part that should be subjective to each individual and their hearing. Volume Limit: The Big Mystery. What does this do? How does it help me? Some say that this is actually volume. Some say this is what you should adjust to hear targets better. Some say it is just there to not blow your ear drums off if your volume is set to high. My questions are: Does this affect the "OUPUT" signal or the "INPUT" signal or both? Why would I want a Volume Limit? My thoughts on this...... I think that Volume Limit sets the MAXIMUM Volume (Audio Boost) "level" that can be used. I don't THINK it limits the Sensitivity. So this is an OUTPUT control. Therefore if you set the Volume Limit high you would get a higher (louder) incremental step with each number in Volume (Audio Boost). If you use a lower Volume Limit, you would have lower (less louder) incremental steps in Volume (Audio Boost). So if you want more precise control of your Volume (Audio Boost) you would set a lower Volume Limit. The trade off is maximum loudness. If you need to hear things louder you are going to have to raise your Volume Limit and then adjust your Volume (Audio Boost) accordingly. My thoughts are that people think this actually raises the volume but in the end if you keep Volume (Audio Boost) at 8 and increase Volume Limit, it will get louder per se because you just raised the the maximum loudness level there by increasing the loudness steps for each Volume (Audio Boost) number. Make sense? It does to me, I hope I am right otherwise I am gonna have to relearn this all over again 😉 Well now I need feedback from you all. Am I out in left field on all of this? Am I spot on? Or do I just need some minor tweaks? 🤣 AND if you have the desire to help some, could as many folks as possible make a video of them adjusting these settings to achieve a perfect balance? These are the videos that are missing on YouTube, etc. We see tons of people digging up gold but not many at all on "How" they use and set up their machine. This would be huge to see. You don't have to make a fancy video, maybe just have someone with their phone over your shoulder while you go through it. This would be a huge boon for a lot of people, including myself. Especially us that have to stay in all winter and have to wait to test their own theories. 🤣 So any help in that regard please post! OR if you already found some vids, please share. I have tried every search I could to no avail. Anyways many members on here have said it before. You need to learn your machine. Its only one aspect of being an expert detectorist. I know I am not there yet cause it sure looks like I am still trying to learn my machine. The rest for me seemed to have come easier, researching locations, reading locations, putting the coil over the gold, etc. Now I NEED to revisit a bunch of locations where I got the easy gold by just using preprogramed settings that I learned when I just started. I started detecting at the SDC level. Turn on and go. I never had a GPX so comparing to the old never helped me. I am part of the new school of detectorists and I don't want to be ignorant by having less control. I want to take control. Its time to achieve ZVT zen and see what was left behind. Its time to level up.

For years I ran the GPX 5000 Threshold setting with a faint audible level by following the book; which is condensed as follows; Through a process of dynamic noise compensation, Smart Electronic Timing Alignment (SETA) ensures that the threshold stability is improved and maintained, allowing you to operate the GPX 5000 with maximum efficiency under all conditions. Threshold is the constant audible background hum or noise produced by the detector. On the front panel rotate the variable Threshold control to achieve a very faint but still audible noise level. It should be smooth with only minor fluctuations. The Threshold is your reference point and lets you know what the coil is sensing, whether it may be a target, ground noise, or electrical interference, so it is important to set the threshold so it can be heard. When a target is detected, the Threshold changes in volume and pitch. Listen to the threshold carefully. Concentration is an important part of detecting. A very deep or small target may only cause a very small change to the Threshold noise. Listening for a target signal with a high level of Threshold noise would be like trying to hear a whisper within a crowded noisy room. A high Threshold may also be uncomfortable to your hearing. If the Threshold level is set too low (less noise) very soft target signals, from small or very deep targets, may not be heard. It is important to reset the Threshold level as conditions change. For example, your ears may adjust to the low levels of audio after an hour or so, or the conditions may have become windy. So here are my concerns; With the GPZ 7000 I find it difficult to achieve the low quiet hum of the GPX 5000. I get the trying to hear a whisper within a crowded noisy room effect. The constant high noise level makes it difficult to listen for small changes that would indicate a small shallow or large deep nugget. So I tend to run it far below the default setting of 27. And much of the time I run at a setting of 1. Another problem is related to the control differences between the two machines. The GPX 5000 has a simple variable Threshold control with no numbers to be concerned with. The GPZ 7000 has digital values which appear to be inverted in function. Attached is an edited illustration from the GPZ 7000 manual that displays my view or understanding of how it should be described.

I have had GP machines from the Extreme to the 4500 and nothing has EVER broken despite thousands of hours in the field being banged around, in the back of my pickup and on ATVs over rough trails. I noticed that my GPZ has started rebooting and loosing it's current setting whenever I lay it on the ground. I have used one of Docs protective covers since I bought it. I took off the cover and found this: It appears that one of the pins that holds the battery in position has sheared off likely causing the reboot issue: Luckily the broken pin was still in my big Minelab protective bag: I'll try to epoxy it back on and treat the detector as if it is made of glass from now on. I'll admit that I have occasionally let it drop to the ground from a foot or two when going to dig a target. An apparently very bad habit I acquired when using the GPs. No more.. I'll see if I can fabricate a pad for the broken stand since I don't see this part available from ML separately. I bought the machine used with about 10 hours of prior usage, so no warranty for me. Just posting this so you guys won't have the same issue.

I have had this problem recently except it happened when switching gold or ground modes. I was switching back and forth to check target signals and lost all audio. It has happened twice and both times i have had to power off the Z to get the sound back. 🤷‍♂️ I have also noticed that my buttons don’t react that fast. I could fly through the buttons much easier if it would not take a full second or two to switch modes or select things. Is this normal? I have no one to compare this with. I had my GPS fixed under warranty and asked to have my screen changed out since it was scratched, in the process they replaced the front panel, I could have swore it worked faster before they put a new one in. No warranty now. Maybe a hard restart or factory reset is in order and reinstall the firmware? 🤷‍♂️

I’ve done a bunch of research online and I just can’t seem to find this. Does anybody know if there is a detailed video on each of the menu items/settings for the GPZ along with examples in real world environments? I realize that when I’m out in the field now, after continually reading this forum, that I kind of stick to the same settings that I’ve been using for a long time (except for changing between high-yield and general, as well as normal and difficult). It’s winter time, I am bored and I’d like to learn more on my GPZ 🤣🤣. Even if this is not a YouTube video and it’s some thing I can purchase I’d be willing to do that as well!

Hey everybody. I've been working my butt off to try to get ready to go find gold.Sometime seems like one step forward two steps back. A week and a half ago I was at the bottom of gold hill outside Virginia City, testing out the GPZ in the gold monster with my wife and kids, and when we put all the gear away I had my keys on the minelab vest, and stupidly locked them in the back of our car right at sun down. Being off the beaten path, and having to work had no choice but to smash my rear window to get the keys and get my family out of there. Just so happens that rear window is more expensive than my windshield at 500 plus dollars :-(. Had to look of finding a free spirit Odyssey 45-in tent for only $2,000 near San Diego. Went down and picked it up, only to find out that the so-called towing Springs that I thought I ordered, and we're actually tihuan springs for a golf, and not the towing Springs that I thought. My mistake ordering them, now my car sags, and I've got a cough up another $160 and change the Springs myself. Times money. To make things even better, on the way back through the Mojave desert my heater core went out. Fortunately it's got a CPo warranty, unfortunately I can't trust the local dealership so I have to drive to Sacramento to have the dealership fix it, luckily it's only 50 bucks. And that covers this sway bar bushings too which are bad. Yesterday I spent all day delivering doordash checking out Auburn and a little bit placer County. Forest Hill road and some other spots. Found an awesome mining store in Auburn. I like to get back today to metal detector it caught a land where I saw people excavating for a new home in placer County. I've got to work my butt off to pay off these bills, I hope I could get one or two hours. I had went to Cold Springs to get some Paydirt with my wife from the bedrock that was exposed. So far I found tons of iron. Bringing it home to our kitchen, where I spent about an hour and a half learning to pan for the first time. With a five bucket gallon, it took me about a good hour to find a good rhythm. Wow am I a slow panner:( I'm working on it, ordered some classifiers, and realized I need to get a sluice box or something to make that process go faster. I totally don't have any cash left to do that though... So I also wanted to figure out how to make my GPZ and gold monster operate better where there's tons of iron. Sitting in bed right now I was just trying to set my machine with Steve's super hot settings, which apparently were not as hot as the ones I was running, when the ultimate nightmare happened. Not even dressed, GPZ in my arms, I can see a gray line going down the center of the screen. Un freaking believable. I hardly used my GPZ yet. Not the hundreds of hours required. I've never dropped it I have no idea how this happened. Every free second of my day I try to spend looking for gold. there's no way I could afford to part with it for a couple months to send it to Australia. I'm hoping there's some way to have it fixed we're able to fix itself. Has anybody ever seen it a grey line in their display? Now my f75 LCD is worse than my GPZ, and my poor GPZ has a line through it... I never let it go in lower than 15-20°....