A friend traded me an old Tdi Sl for my old Canon DSLR with a couple lenses. The camera was old but still worked well and perhaps worth a couple hundred at most, so I threw in a telephoto lens and we had a deal. I got a dead or dying Tdi Sl in exchange. The machine would power on etc everything seems to work except it will not ground balance and sensitivity was way down to almost nothing. Ok so not dead but way out of sorts at least. The previous owner has moved on after having done something to the machine. Yes he had opened it up and poked about and tried to make adjustments or something to it. He has lots of history when it comes to pulling things appart followed by difficulty in putting them back together. Let's say this is not his first Humpty Dumpty moment, rather one of many.. Looking at the PCB there is nothing to adjust? I'll take a closer look later now that the PCB is out. At worst I figured I would get some parts etc.
Anyways, later I managed to obtain an SPP PCB and swapped them out. Plugged everything back as I would the TDI SL PCB. Sensitivity is back to normal, seems to work well. Pulse Delay as well as HI LOW ALL do not appear to work like they would on a Tdi SL , even though they are plugged into the board. It does appear to work as a Sierra Pulse Pro should. The SPP board is the latest with all the mods already done at the factory. The old White's rep in Australia has a few SPP boards left for about $70 US each. So I have an SPP for a while, until I can figure out how to repair the Tdi Sl PCB. I'll wait and see what happens. I've got a battery project on the boil and lots of real work to keep me busy. Locked down till mid August so I'll get busy playing with my projects during my spare time.
I'll compare it to my Tdi Sl LE and see if performance differs, should be the same. In the image the left PCB is SPP. right PCB is from sick Tdi Sl. I think it was a good deal and the end result satisfactory for now. Even better if I can fix the original board..
All the best.
I took my Excalibur out yesterday water hunting to an area I thought might hold some loot.....I was rewarded with a very nice Platinum ring.
The area was inundated with old bottlecaps and even though the Excal was nulling them out perfectly, it was hard going and required a good deal of patience. Because of this, I have decided to keep the TDIBH strictly for beach work as using a PI in this area would have made me quit in disgust. The detector has been reassembled back to the original Coil as I was planning on swapping out for a smaller coil for the water.
I feel too much time would be wasted using a PI in this area (And most of the areas I hunt in the water) and I needed to cover a lot of sea floor and make the most of the tides.
I feel I’m going to be a 90% VLF user for the water, based on iron and iron alloy junk plus mineralised ground is not a problem. I’ll keep the PI for the lower beach and hard pan when I do hit these areas.
I have decided to finally swap out my big 12” Dual field coil on my TDIBH for something smaller. The purpose is to use in the water.
I have some pros and cons with each model so feel free to add any ideas you have.
Coiltek Platypus 12x8. Waterproof, epoxy filled. Maybe too long on the 12” side which sees the most water resistance Detech 8” Mono. Foam filled so more buoyant but not too worried as 2/3 the size of the Dual Field coil. Good size. Waterproof. Garrett 8” Mono coil. Waterproof, epoxy filled. Good size. Suitable for lower delays? Garrett coil
By Bohemia Miner
I was on my way back from a detecting trip near Winnemucca. I stopped in at Armadillo in Grants Pass, Oregon and saw this hanging on the wall. Apparently, there are only three in existence. This one belongs to Sam. From what I understand, she received this for being the top salesperson in the company with this model.
I think this would have been a way better color than the original black!
How many of you have old or extra lower rod to an SD/GP/GPX Excalibur, Sovereign laying around?
The reason I ask is because I am getting a lot of interest in the SAGA™ from overseas, especially AUSTRALIA. however, the big bug-a-boo, is the cost of shipping.
Because the package is over 24 inches long the postal service charges an enormous surcharge. Shipping for one SAGA rod is literally $66. I about choked.
Now it just so happens, I was thinking ahead on this issue, and I made the SAGA so it would also use a spare fiberglass rod from an SD/GP/GPX Excalibur Sovereign etc. It fits perfectly. If an international customer could supply their own rod, I could just send a parts bag including a 1 ounce tube of Silicone sealant to glue the handle on and shipping would only be $32. USD. And get this, if a customer ordered two parts packages, the shipping would still only be $32 shipping for two packages. So if you had a mate that wanted a SAGA, you could share the cost of shipping.
The only thing the customer would have to do is cut off the head of the rod they have where it attaches to the coil. The other end has the adjustment button which on most if not all Minelab lower rods is metal. That's not good because that adjustment button end is the part that goes into the SAGA pivot joint close to the coil. However, I would just include a plastic button to replace the Minelab metal button.
So bottom line is I wonder how many people have those extra lower rods laying around or how readily available they are and if offering that option of the parts bag would be more attractive for an international customers than paying $66 for shipping? I know I wouldn't pay $66 USD for shipping.
Actually the same goes for U.S. it cuts shipping from around $12 on a package going to New York to about $6, by eliminating the rod. It only makes sense if you have an extra rod laying around, if you have to buy a rod especially for that reason Minelab charges $42 for a lower fiberglass rod.
Really interested in hearing from forum members in Australia.