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rod-pa

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Everything posted by rod-pa

  1. Bhogg, adding to what Steve H said in his first post on the single freq machines...I only have experience with the F75 on his list. I can tell you that if you are an ID hunter and your soil is not pretty mild, like less than 3 bars, looking at the screen for IDs to determine whether you are digging on mid depth and deep coins...will be worthless. I started out with it using disc mode, zero disc. A couple years later now, and 99.99 percent of the time I am in AM mode, and not even looking at the screen until I hear the nice sounds I am looking for, or the faintest sounds to connote something deep. Good case in point was Saturday. 2-3 bars soil, 5" coil. I heard the nice zip, zip very faint in AM. circled it, and mostly got zips, except one direction. circled again looking at IDs...ranged from 4 to 80. at about 8 inches, got my 6th V nickel. Nice green 1901. I think some of the newer singl freqs machines might ID better at depth, is all. In hot ground, I am pretty certain of it, based on other threads. Thanks.
  2. Balance with the 10.5" coil is sub-par. I never had an 8" for mine, but used the 5 and 10.5. I made up a sling/chest mount for my control box, but should have put some weight on mine behind the cuff to make it better to swing....my shoulder is a bit damaged by swinging it. I should have spent more effort making it more ergonomic and kept it...it did rock on the wet sand in NJ, and found me quite a few deep old coins inland as well.
  3. Mike, I found silver ring with that exact mark on it 2 saturdays ago in southeast PA. I am guessing not dropped by the same person.....
  4. I am looking for some advice, brands, ideas, etc on some equipment for cleaning some of the stuff I find. I am looking for a decent large magnifying glass on a stand that will let me use both hands to see items close up while cleaning them. Preferably with it's own lighting. I am looking for what folks use for quality picks with extremely fine points. I know (never clean your coins) is the mantra, but I am putting together a type set of the coins I have dug, and also albums of Indian head and newer cents, and since most are relatively worthless, I just want to purge them of all dirt and clean them up as best as possible for in the albums. any info is appreciated. Thanks, Rod
  5. any trips i get to the beach involve 6 yr old, 7 yr old, and wife, so I detect from 4am until 7am...not many folks at that hour come pester me.
  6. I use Maprika ALOT. Depending on how precise you want it to be though...must pay attention. Creeks are generally safer to plot with an intersection with a road, compared to a road/road intersection if there is any chance it has been modified by townships over the years, straightened, etc. Maprika will really throw off the GPS with mispointed spots, even if you are matching your old map to live Google maps. When I do my overlays, I start with the creeks, then add road intersections. In my East Coast area, it helps to utilize www.historicaerials.com as a second reference in time for the area you are mapping to see if those roads have been modified in the past 60 years or so. If I have major discrepancies, I do two maps for the same spot. One using historicaerials and one with the original old map. Nothing cooler than walking in to a spot in the woods that looks just like the rest of the area, turning on the detector and finding old stuff.
  7. For the visual, Put a red/yellow/green dot in google glass with an ID number. now I can look anywhere I need to look and still get the info. You still can have the wireless sound, and see the info.
  8. I assume that as a visitor here, Steve spends all his free time making certain the folks on here are not fakes...somewhat kidding, but I know for certain so much of Facebook is fake stuff...cant go there for any information.
  9. Preface this with...I know this is a prospecting forum part but I saw G2 and couldnt resist. I used a G2 exclusively for a couple years. In shallow depth trash busy homesites, it was really awesome. My soil is mostly very mild...I had an ultimate 13 coil for it for out in the fields, and in disc mode it kept pace with a hunting buddy's F75. It lacked in two areas though, and caused me to replace it with an F75. One was the small coil. when both were using the 5" coil due to high trash, the F75 spanked it really badly in depth, whether AM or disc, when cross-checking targets. Some times it could not even see the target while in disc. With the 11" stock coil the depth fall-off was not as severe, although sometimes I would need to be in AM to have a consistent dig me ID while the F75 was certain of a dig-me target. The other is AM mode. The G2 uses the little arch across the top of the screen, and whenever I tried to use the G2 much in AM, it would be mentally fatiguing to stop focusing for a faint sound to then focus on such a small indicator in bright light conditions. Because the soil is mild, I wasnt so much looking to see where the AM was, but how much it would be bouncing as I was circling the targets once I found something deep, and it just was too hard to see, many times. It found me a lot of cool deep stuff though, and I used it many times in 20-25 deg F out banging in field stubble. Everytime I look at my revolutionary war boot pistol or my cap'n'ball, I could kick myself for selling it. It was a serious workhorse. I would have kept it, but the wife-o-meter was pinging a bit high seeing multiple detectors...I couldnt bear to part with the ultimate coil, so I still have that in case i ever get another greek machine. The coil was THAT good on it. Actually, G2 found me a couple gold rings and earrings, so it counts as a gold detector...
  10. Steve, I would like someone to make a detector that JUST looks for silver coins, at the expense of everything else, and deeper than f75. THAT i would pay a lot for, if I can use it for extreme depth when out in fields, or quicker for in old homesteads, and able to filter aluminum junk. Copper coins come out looking terrible and eaten away most of the time in my wet/fertilized/clay/pesticide soil..not much use focusing on them. Gold coins...too rare, although make a special one for that too, might as well. A really really really focused tool(detector) instead of the swiss army knife approach which must have to sacrifice a little bit in most areas to be pleasing to most people...
  11. Steve, Have you ever used any of the TDI non-waterproof models on the wet sand? The surfmaster appeals to me, but i can more readily justify purchasing a TDI as it would see more use inland in highly mineralized soil, but a couple trips to the wet beach during the summer. I go to NJ beaches a few times a year. somewhat black sand. Would the TDI's be as deep as the surfmasters on the beach?
  12. The reason I had ordered the part in the first place was to get rid of the old camlock type and utilize the newer pin camlock type. I also ordered the teknetics (same company, go figure but no part listed by Fisher) extended length lower rod to let me keep the lower rod slid further up into the middle rod to keep the heavy 10.5" CZ coil from swaying on the end when swinging it. I use the same lower rod to use the heavy 15x12 SEF on my F75 and keep it from swaying much. Should work to help any other Fisher users with heavy coils. didnt mean to hijack the thread, but dont think it warranted a new topic.
  13. Just as an additional bit of info, the CZ6a original rod issues were about the same. When I ordered a replacement, they sent the newer type and I couldnt use it, so i replaced the rest to make all sections new and work together.
  14. Rod K. You just bought the G2 from me. You will be pleased with it. The coils with it were matched to it by Tom Dankowski and it is quite accurate. Kinda crazy, but my last name starts with K also...
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