Sharpening A Prospecting Pick

[Jin]

1 hour ago, Valens Legacy said:

My grandfather had always told me to use a file because they won't heat the steel up and make it lose it's temper.

I will sit for a couple of hours and use the file to make it nice and sharp again, when I have used it and abused it over a few weeks. With that said I generally will sharpen it after several hunts when I am using it a lot.

Yes, that's the file I've been using up till now.

Decided to give the grinder ago today and did a couple of passes on the blade then dipped it in water. Hopefully, I didn't heat the metal too much.

35 minutes ago, GoodAmount said:

I’ve just retipped my pick with a new section of carbon steel from a trailer leaf spring.

That's what I plan on doing when the pick wears down too much. I've been thinking about whether to weld it on or bolt it on like another pick I saw with replaceable ends. For the hassle though, I'll probably end up buying another Gold Digger pick - Looks like Nenad (phasetechnical) sells them 

[GoodAmount]

1 hour ago, Jin said:

I've been thinking about whether to weld it on or bolt it on like another pick I saw with replaceable ends. For the hassle though, I'll probably end up buying another Gold Digger pick - Looks like Nenad (phasetechnical) sells them 

Gold Digger picks are awesome. Those Supersede picks are awesome too - I love that the parts bolt on and are replaceable (I’ve done the same thing with my DIY-build pick an it’s worked out super well). I’d recommend welding on a new tip if you’re only replacing the sharp end of the tooth, given bolting it on will interfere with its travel into the ground. Bolting an entire new tooth at the handle collar will work great, but you’ll be throwing away good steel in the process.

[Lost Scout]

2 hours ago, GoodAmount said:

Gold Digger picks are awesome. Those Supersede picks are awesome too - I love that the parts bolt on and are replaceable (I’ve done the same thing with my DIY-build pick an it’s worked out super well). I’d recommend welding on a new tip if you’re only replacing the sharp end of the tooth, given bolting it on will interfere with its travel into the ground. Bolting an entire new tooth at the handle collar will work great, but you’ll be throwing away good steel in the process.

So are you heat treating and tempering after welding the new tip on?

[GoodAmount]

I didn’t quench or temper the one shown in the picture. The source of the welding heat was away from the tip, so I didn’t worry about it. I’m happy to just see how it goes and if I’m having difficulty keeping a keen edge I’ll just weld on another tip and spend some time hardening and tempering it.

[Aureous]

11 hours ago, Jin said:

Looks like Nenad (phasetechnical) sells them

@PhaseTech  do you sell those supersede picks still? Not on your website 

[davsgold]

23 hours ago, phrunt said:

I wonder if @davsgold would have some tips seeing he makes them.

 

yep just like in the guys video, keep the metal cool and grind it don't press the grinder to hard and a bit at a time and grind like the guy does in the video

[dig4gold]

13 hours ago, geof_junk said:

but I use angle grinder with quick touches and into water and keep repeating till job is done.

As per the video link Jin put up. 👍 Exactly as I do it.

D4G

[Nedkelly]

Slow and steady with a grinder.    Out in the goldfields a large flat bastard file. The trick is to sharpen regularly otherwise it can become a big job getting them back into shape. If I want the hoe end sharper for cutting through thick grass and roots then I'll give it a few licks with a finer file at the start of every session. 

[Guys gold]

Just heat about 1” of tip after sharpening,this is only part that wear is a concern.Heat to a minimum red glow and drip in motor oil.Or for a harder but more brittle,dip in salt water.

[GotAU?]

On 2/24/2024 at 1:13 AM, GoodAmount said:

Honing down a triangular pick head can be laborious if you’re wanting to maintain its triangular shape. I’ve just retipped my pick with a new section of carbon steel from a trailer leaf spring. It was getting pretty stubby in the tooth and becoming difficult to get through the ground, particularly when hunting heavily surfaced areas where you need to bust up slaty bedrock. In those situations it needs a well honed point and a decent wedge profile to break up the rock without sending it flying. I welded on a small arbitrary 60x18mm parallel-edged tip section and ground a relatively oblique taper on the end with an angle grinder. I reckon I’ll get a year or so of easy regrinds to maintain its shape before needing to replace it again. I took it out for a test run two days ago and it sure rips through slaty bedrock like a champ. It’s slightly too long in the tooth at the moment, but it’ll only be a couple of sharpens before it’s the right length.

That looks like some great work. I’m trying to figure out how you welded that on and then ground it down so smoothly, did you weld with a gap between the two parts?