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On 6/18/2019 at 1:55 PM, Rivers rat said:

Hi it was on a modded silver sabre 2 this machine has more knob and switch than anything.What i realise is when warm(no joke) it works ......plug the coil and try again to turn all knob and switch.I got 2 LOBO ST and the scream when turn ON to indicate the battery level.But i am unfamiliar with the original LOBO

 

RR

I just read something today about the audio battery indicator which I am assuming is a feature of the older units, has been replaced with the little LED placed in the central area of the PCB such as on the Russian Fed PCB offered on Ebay.  Since I never had any experience with any of these, I am anxious to get my board finished and tested. I do remember many years ago someone with a detector prospecting for coins and stuff in a local park. I was a still a young kid at the time,( like 40 or 50 years ago) it seems like the thing made so much noise I didn't understand how anyone could tell when they had actually found something. Also I am learning as I continue my build what all the dials and switches are for, this is to whom was asking about what they do. There are or should be the on/off switch, 2 other switches that are for tuning the metal discrimination and auto/ manual modes. There is a simplified wiring method that eliminates one of those switches. 

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I assume all that noise was because the machine was in all metal mode. They way you hunt in all metal is you set the threshold so you have a steady hum but get it on the brink of not being audible. As you swing the coil you listen for changes or spikes to the hum. Shallow and or large targets will have a loud obvious rise in audio and small and or deep targets will have subtle changes in the threshold. It is important to maintain a smooth threshold and keep the machine ground balanced or you may lose targets or just not hear them if the audio isn't smooth.

With discrimination on the machine will only sound off on targets above the discrimination setting. Known as silent search, in most cases you would trim out the iron range. The Tejon has 2 discrimination circuits. Primary is typically set lower to the minimum ie iron/foil and the 2nd disciminator is set higher usually just below copper or above aluminum in most cases. There is a trigger on the handle that when pulled puts the machine into vco all metal mode for pin pointing. Default position is primary disc and when pushed forward it activates the secondary disc. This makes junk checking possible without the need to constantly turning a pot to see where a target breaks to id it.

The LED battery indicator sounds like a great idea, wish I had that on my Tejon. I one time bumped the audio volume on my headphones and thought the batteries were dead so headed home. Figured it out when the batteries didn't take a charge but machine was still quiet. Doh!

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Kind of what I thought too. I understand the old lobo is not top of the line in technical advancement by current standards and have been trying to find out how well people think the Lobo (not the ST) works.  I would like to find some boards for a more advanced detector to build. I haven't sold myself on one of the features of the ST, the auto discrim, but it has the option to choose auto or manual from what I have read. I would like to find some parts for some of the other models too, but haven't seen much. I'm of the opinion that the more dials and switches something has the better it works, maybe, sometimes more complicated is too complicated to use. The feature on the ST that needs to be reset frequently, Ground Balance, bugs me too. Maybe the Ground Balance is also selectable and I am off on the Discrim. auto/manual, I don't know now. Any how, I am about to a point on my project to move on to the mast and coil. I have a plastic project housing box that is half the height of the Aluminum housing shown in the photos online. I am going to use metalized tape on the inside for the shielding and common grounding for all the stuff that needs it. It may be a mistake, I don't know yet as there are still items I need to work on, like plug jacks and switches, etc., not planning on putting a loud speaker inside so that should make it easier to house. 

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Well that sounds like a possible cold solder connection. Most of the time when something stops after it warms up it is a component issue. But working when it warms up, I would look for a bad connection first. If the board is assembled with lead free solder, it is more brittle than the older 60/40 lead tin stuff and can fracture at the joints. 

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