Chase Goldman

This subject of Sun Ray headphone compatibility with Equinox has come up a few times and is explained in various threads here. For the Sun Rays to work with the way Minelab wires up its headphone jack, you need to have the Minelab CTX compatible version Sun Rays. Apparently, any Sunrays can be modified (rewired) to work with the Minelab CTX/Equinox wiring scheme for about 25 bucks. I don't know why you were unable to get hold of someone at ML on the phone. That's disappointing and unusual. Folks here have reported very few issues calling ML directly and speaking to the primary customer service rep at 630-401-8150 and in getting prompt advice or service directly from ML repair at: Detector Center 188 Oak Shade Road Alum Bank, PA 15521 Phone: 814-283-4270 Email: shop@detectorrepair.com https://www.detectorrepair.com/ Email does seem to be hit or miss. Moot point now, though but for future reference, here is a recent thread on the Sun Ray compatibility issue: Another solution is to use a different adapter like this one: Even though a lot of the discussion centers on plugging the SunRays into the WM08, the same adapter can be used with the on board headphone jack as well. Sorry you didn't ask the question here before you ditched the Equinox. Might have been able to help you out.

Dan - nice finds and like your settings. I always come back to that 11" coil (even though I like the ground coverage of the big coil) It just feels right. Just goes to show you don't need to necessarily run a "2" mode to snag mid-conductive and tiny targets. Even though Equinox in multi is very forgiving on less than ideal GB, I always GB as part of my startup routine even if I am running tracking or even on dry sand where I know GB is likely going to end up around 0. Since the Equinox always remembers the last GB setting it is prudent to do so if you weren't running 0 GB on the last session to get GB back "in the ballpark". 0 IB all the way. I plan to do a lot more testing at lower recovery speed settings when relic season "heats up" this fall. I don't know if you've tried this, but I would also give Field 1, (two tone, 0 IB by default) a spin at that site too. It is set up almost identical to how you set up Park 1 and should have a similiar Multi IQ frequency profile. HH

I too lived through the early adopter pain with the MX Sport. I thought the MX sport was going to be the waterproof MXT with updated electronics and packaging and was disappointed with the teething issues related to depth and separation programming (sent mine in for the firmware update - another thing XP, Minelab, and Makro/Nokta don't require you to do with their do it yourself firmware updates). The design issue with the faceplate cracks and waterproof integrity was disappointing also, but Whites owned the issue to their credit. The final straw came when the battery compartment on the Sport inexplicably cracked where screws entered the plastic mounting holes on the housing. I was surprised that the plastic mounting blocks were used vice metal reinforced mounting points because that was obviously a high stress area for the plastic. I could not see this happening on the MXT big box design. Anyway, I sent my unit in under warranty (insured shipping back to Whites at my expense was significant based on my location on the east coast which was also a dissatisfier but I knew that was the price of admission for warranty repair) and Whites dutifully repaired the unit and sent it back to me after a few weeks time. I cannot complain about Whites standing behind their product warranties. They did not disappoint in that respect. They were innovative and I hope they can show some future ability to be innovative again. But as far as the MX Sport saga is concerned, in my case - the MX Sport has found a new owner and I am still hanging on to my MXT, perhaps more for sentimental reasons than practical reasons as it is more a symbol of an era gone by than it is of solid detector that can still hang with these new young kids on the block. But it actually can still hang AND I like the fact that it accommodates concentric coils which is a rarity nowadays. And I really love those analog knob controls. A classic.

In the case of Equinox not sure it can be concluded if the issue is design or manufacturing. Based on the nature of the failures reported (immediate failure upon submergence if some but not all units), it appears to be related more to manufacturing quality issues vs. design. But can’t say definitively at this point.

GPX’s often don’t play well together either even if you are different channels. You can try running a GPX auto tune channel scan to see if the GPX can find a clear channel (similar to what you do if you are getting GPX crosstalk). Equinoxes often don't play well with each other either in close quarters. But a noise cancel can usually take care of that. I have seen huntmasters prohibiting Equinox operation in Multi mode during contest hunts where everyone is in close quarters. Single frequency tends to not be an issue. You can request that of your hunting partner if in a similar situation (and auto tune didn't work). Perfectly capable machine in single (especially in gold mode).

You might be better off buying a whole detector (600 or 800) so you have a full set of spare components and then just travel with the spare pod and your primary detector. I will say this though, I have yet to hear of an Equinox flooding that hasn’t done so within the first or second submergence. It seems as though it is going to fail off the bat or not at all when it comes to flooding damage. So my recommendation is test it out under water (more than once if possible) under warranty and if it passes, you should have pretty high confidence it will not subsequently fail.

It's an issue if you use the speaker to provide audio for instructional and hunt videos. There is a one way pressure valve in there that is supposed to relieve internal pressure automatically, I thought. Also, could just be a matter of letting the external speaker membrane dry out. Submersible cell phones have similar issues with their speakers. Call ML repair. I am more concerned about yet another drowned Equinox that you posted about separately.

I’m just used to it doing that now in Pinpoint and don’t give it a second thought. Quirky but harmless.

You're right, Xterra on the brain I guess, sorry about that. Hoping ML comes out down the road with a Multi IQ based detector with the Target ID resolution and sophisticated Disc patterning of the Etrac and CTX FBS 2 detectors. Now that would be something I could get behind feature wise. Otherwise, I am really wanting for nothing as far as detectors are concerned, which is probably a relief to my better half. Fortunately, I can likely skip contemplating anything new detector wise in 2019 and 2020 (with the possible exception of the FT AQ PI if it ever shows up and unless Nokta/Makro or XP decide to release simultabeous multifrequency based detectors) as I have no interest in detectors that have less capability than what I have now and that appears to be Simplex and Vanquish. Can't imagine anyone releasing a detector without a hard wired headphone port at this point especially for water hunting and considering the price point that ML has been charging for their wireless accessories, it seems it would push their detector price target too high. But anything is on the table until proven otherwise. A Standard 1/4" phone jack would be good. Let's get it right this time - Enjoy that eTrac Nuke! Happy Hunting.

Yep. Well that vulnerability is unlikely to change on Vanquish, too. That is when the hardwired phones option comes into play. Regarding ML competing with Simplex and the future of low cost detecting equipment, it is pretty clear that both Nokta/Makro and ML are going after the low cost detector market now dominated by Garrett's Ace series detectors after they have both disrupted the mid-range sector dominated by the AT series. Also, for detectors in general, Steve made a good case for why it doesn't make sense for detector manufacturers to not make waterproofness a standard detector feature going forward in this post. We'll see what pops this fall. It is fun speculating in any event and will be exciting to see what gets released. In the mean time, Nuke, enjoy that Xterra you just got and hope some gold soon glimmers in your scoop. Cheers and Happy Hunting.

I did say "implied" and clarified my edited post and agreed that water hunting does not necessarily equal waterproof, but again, based on where industry is going, I think there would be significant backlash if Vanquish did not at least keep up with Simplex in that regard. So, to the point, I don't think anyone can make the definitive statement that is "isn't going to be waterproof", either. Also, some information in the vids has frankly run counter to some of the early information that was being fed to you by your original "source", so I am less inclined to give them the benefit of the doubt. For example, it was originally going to be a replacement for the Excal/Sovereign, then it was going to be an Xterra replacement and then 3 models with Flex IQ but with it clearly being Multi IQ based (the Multi IQ logo is in the video) like Equinox, I doubt it etc. So the "inside" info you have been getting is all over the map. Perhaps intentional by the source to keep the mystery going...or they don't actually know. I do, however, hope it fulfills the gap you have been looking for on Target ID, but doubt it will solve your Equinox EMI problem if it is Multi IQ-based. It is all speculation at this point and I am not lending any credence to sources (I have my own too) or spreading rumors other than what ML has put out there and what Steve has posted on his Vanquish info page. We really won't know until the specs and pics are published and then again, until someone has a video of a prototype or early production model in action. Cheers.

I did. See my edited post. Also, here is the link to Steve's Vaquish page.

Not conclusive, but that is the inconsistent with what has been implied by the adverts and really isn't where the industry is heading where everything is waterproof. As Steve referenced on the Vanquish page: From the Minelab YouTube Channel: ”Minelab Vanquish a new dawn a new metal detector For Metal Detecting, water hunting, relic hunting and treasure hunting” Agree that water hunting does not necessary mean waterproof, but if ML wants to be competitive with Simplex too...

See if you can get with some local detectorists (not necessarily prospectors) so you can work on your detecting skills with local sites and get used to your machines before you hit the claims. You will be more comfortable and proficient that way, and who knows, maybe you will find you enjoy coin shooting, hunting for jewelry, or ghost town relic detecting too. The key is getting to some productive sites if possible so you can be exposed to different targets and their recovery and can get used to how your machine responds to them. Though it is not cheap, equipment is the least valuable variable in the detecting equation. Just as expensive golf clubs do not make the golfer, expensive detectors do not really make the targets pop out of the ground any easier. I speak from experience. I thought the key to better detecting success was better and more equipment. I learned that it was not until I stopped playing musical detectors and focused on learning one type to the best of my ability (including getting some in-person instruction from experienced detectorists) was the key to getting proficient. That is when things started to click and I started really enjoying detecting. The concept of hearing beeps or reading meters is deceptively simple, but the nuances are significant and it took me awhile to understand that the best classroom was not books or video but getting in the field and accumulating hundreds of hours of experience including digging a hell of lot of nails, pull tabs, bottle caps, tractor parts, aluminum cans and tin foil. But when that gold ring glimmers in your scoop, or that civil war cartridge box plate or uniform button appears in the mud, or that silver quarter pops out as shiny in the sun as it was in 1852, then all the hours of tedium and digging trash become worth it. I’m admittedly not a natural gold prospector, but the principles are the same, regardless. Best of luck out there on your prospecting adventures.

Gotcha. Ok gotcha, that's a good start. Somehow I had the mistaken impression you just got your Equinox in May based on a previous post, so sorry for the confusion. In any event, get used to your VHF detector, especially Equinox by just detecting your yard or local parks or ball fields. You need to get some swing hours in so you are not lost out there in the field, trying to learn your equipment. That way you can be used to the controls, displays, and audio BEFORE you trek all the way to the gold fields. Besides claim sites and maps, are you getting any one-on-one assistsnce and instruction from any of your club members in advance of your September excursion?

Wow. I don't want to dampen your enthusiasm for your newfound passion, but, frankly, I would slow down on the coil acquisition and focus on learning your new detectors with a minimal of variables at this point (i.e. different coils). It seems you are just starting out with PI prospecting detecting (if not detecting in general) but it is not clear to me your background as a prospecting detectorist is with your VHF 800 and Gold Monster detectors so ignore the following if it is stuff you already know and I will just put it out there for anyone else new to the hobby in general. Remember Steve's words of wisdom earlier in this thread: "People go chasing off after coils way to soon in a lot of cases when simply mastering what they have would be more productive." My advice to you is to just get out there and start learning your new detectors with the stock coils. There is a lot to learn just on setting up soil timings and learning nuances of the audio language of the GPX...and the GPZ is a completely different beast. They are both very different than the VHF detectors you may be used to. Mixing it up with all these coils, you'll be spending more time loosening and adjusting coil bolts and cords than getting quality detect time training your brain on a consistent baseline coil audio response to various targets. From that you can start to gradually learn how additional coil types sound and purchase coils on the basis of what they can actually bring to the table in terms of filling the target/capability gaps of your existing coil(s). All these coils will make the GPX sound and behave slightly differently even with the same exact detector settings. Avoid the temptation to be enamored of all the bright shiny hardware accessories and user claims of this and that until you get a handle on your detector, your sites, and the targets that reside there [you may already have]. Not sure if this applies to you, but for those new to the hobby, detecting takes a lot of patience, target acquisition and recovery is not all that easy (at least not as easy as the skillfully edited You Tube videos would lead you to believe) and before you invest TOO heavily, it is wise to make sure it is something you are going to enjoy for years to come. I have seen many folks get frustrated and quit the hobby because they spent too much time wrestling with an overwhelming mass of hardware that they could not master. Keep the detector piece as simple as possible when starting out. Though it seems resources are not an issue for you, just know that standalone coils, especially specialty coils tend to not hold their resale value as well as detectors. So be cautious in investing in coils you may not even need as your return on investment may be pretty low. Regardless, have fun with your new equipment, but focus on learning those new detectors at this point and the best way to do that is minimize the variables that can reset your learning curve like too many coils. There will be plenty of time in the future to acquire new hardware, it ain't going anywhere, will probably only get better, and frankly 90% of success in detecting is getting yourself onto a good site where the targets reside, knowing how to attack that site, and gaining field experience. After that, the equipment's effect on success is really about splitting hairs and the perceived performance deltas come from our obsessive-compulsive personality disorders that make us think that the equipment really makes that big a difference. I mean, who doesn't like to buy more tools just because they're cool and not because we need them. GL HH.

That may be true of concentric coils, but that's not how a DD coil works (which is what the Equinox uses). On a DD coil, the active detect region is beneath the center spine area where the two "D" coils intersect. Although you may have some edge sensitivity effects that can affect overall sensitivity and coil overload in thick target situations with larger DD coils, the target recovery time is determined by the detector solely, and the center spine strip thickness (the overlap region) and sweep speed determine how long the target remains in the thin overlap region which is basically the same thickness for all three Equinox coils. Although you could have a situation where more than one target ends up under the active region center strip, recovery speed does nothing for you in that situation because both targets are simultaneously under the active region, you are just less likely to have that happen with a smaller dismeter, shorter length coil. Equinox DD coil diameter or length/width for the large Elliptical coil) primarily affects depth and sweep coverage and ability to sweep the coil side-to-side in tight confines and has nothing to do with recovery speed based target separation. See this thread for more information on DD vs. Concentric coils.

You are correct in your interpretation regarding how the 800 works vs. the 600 on recovery speed. However, coil size really has no bearing on what recovery speeds are allowed or can be used. All available recovery speeds can be used for all the Equinox accessory coils and all three work well regardless of your recovery speed setting.

Totally agree, Jeff regarding audio and iron performance. Very capable detectors. And the AT Pro was a groundbreaking detector in its day. Glad Garrett improved the visual interface somewhat on the Max. Garrett bumped up the gain (which frankly has caused it to be more chatty than deeper, necessitating a gain reduction back to Pro levels so what was actually gained?) and claims of 50% depth increase (especially without specifics) should be taken with a grain of salt considering that there was no compelling technological breakthrough going on other than the gain increase. The frequency shift from 15 to 13.6 khz was insignificant from a performance standpoint. Garrett should have instead focused on improving the overall audio, audio ID and iron audio capabilities, perhaps providing multiple selectable operating frequencies (not just frequency shifting) and perhaps improving or providing adjustable recovery which hinders its ability in thick iron and trash and at mineralized sites. Hope Garrett wakes up and starts working on what it needs to do to be competitive with the Nokta/Macros, Minelabs, and XPs of the world with its next generation. A warmed over AT series detector for the next iteration is just not going to cut it. Their ability to be competitive, and more importantly innovative, again, would only be a good thing for the hobby.

This site has a pretty powerful yet easy to use advanced search feature which is needed because of the troves of valuable info stashed here and there. Hope this link helps answer your question. But what it boils down to is that the 5000 has a couple of additional timings for salt and mineralized soils and a couple of extra custom presets. Other than that, performance-wise they are about the same.

The pristine nails have typically Chuck - in that case those pristine nails have typically been annealed by fire (not intentionally though). They look great because the annealing inhibits the corrosion process, but are too soft to actually be used and will bend easily under a hammer. When recovering the corroded nails at archeological sites we call the severely corroded nails "cheetos". The type of nail (hand forged, machine cut (starting in the late 1700's to late 1800's), or the modern wire nail) and the type of head on the nail provides clues as to when the nail was made, what it was used for and can help you date or determine what a former structure was used for at an archeological site. When I do volunteer survey work at local historic sites, the archeologists get really excited about ferrous recoveries that detectorists typically throw in the scrap pile. I have learned a lot about what seemingingly mundane or junk targets are telling me about a site when I am detecting it for relics. It is all about doing the detective work up front and during the hunt, piecing together the back story of the site from old maps, to historical records, to the trees, water soures, and terrain to envision where the dwelling or long-term camp was likely to be located. Once you start heading in that direction, hitting the nails and/or seeing pieces of plates or pottery on the ground, you know you have arrived. That is why I always like to hear the iron when I am relic hunting and don't mind recovering the nails. Some additional info: https://www.uvm.edu/~histpres/203/nails.html https://www.harpgallery.com/library/nails.htm

Rarely, especially in quiet conditions, since several channels could be quiet, it sort of becomes dealer's choice. Similarly, under very noisy conditions, it may select diifferent channels on each run that have similar noise levels that it considers the quietest, even though they may not be very quiet.

The lack of corrosion on those nails indicates they were likely annealed by a structural fire or the wood was intentionally burned in a bonfire. Though the arid climate and soil could have also limited corrosion, too.

It is not a filter, it is selecting the quietest multi IQ operating channel at the time. Since there are so many variables, no guarantees it will work next time as power line load/time of day and even humidity all play a part in how well the noise propagates. But, hey, it’s worth a shot, especially if you don’t mind also being locked into whatever mode (e.g., Park 1) is associated with that channel setting as each mode has its own unique set of operating channels the noise cancel algorithm scans (which is why each mode needs to be individually noise cancelled). So if you switch modes, you are effectively switching operating channels. The 800 allows you to manually select the quietest channel in addition to auto noise cancel, which would more easily allow you to set up the same channel repeatedly if auto doesn’t do the trick. Unfortunately, you can’t do that on the 600.

It also fixes the dreaded user profile reset bug. So, yeah, 1.7.5 seems to be the way to go. It has been slmost a year since the last update. But I can't really think of anything compelling that can be addressed by a simple software fix. Would really like to see the functions of the user profile button and frequency select buttons swapped, but at this point I would probably hate it because I am so used to the existing configuration.