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About mh9162013

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    Silver Contributor

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  • Location:
    KY, USA
  • Gear Used:
    Fisher Research Labs F2, Pro-Find 35 & Garrett Carrot

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  1. Rusting shouldn't be a problem as long as you use stainless steel.The problem is that if they penetrate the OEM endcap from the top, that could potentially lead to water intrusion. Also, if they stick past the endcap too far, they might interfere with the 9V battery inside. Screwing into the sides of the endcap might work, though. You have far more plastic to work with.
  2. How would you bond the "T" to the endcap? Is there a solvent that would work? I think, given the forces needed to twist off the endcap, a solvent would be needed, not just an adhesive or glue. Or maybe some kind of mechanical way of attaching it. Another idea is to attach a thick, round disc to the endcap. I'm thinking this disc can be 6 to 10 mm thick. Then in the middle you can cut/etch a line so you can use a coin to twist off the endcap, kind of like what the F-Pulse has. I dunno how durable this would be. You'd need a very durable material if you wanted to keep the round disc as thin as possible. However, I doubt a hard enough material would be able to be solvent-welded to the OEM endcap.
  3. If I had to do that, yes, I'd use some sort of insert/spacer. As for the end-cap being slick, I hear you. The endcap on the Pro-Find 35 was a little bit better, but it was still a bit of a hassle. I noticed that adding some silicone grease (which is a necessary part of maintenance) to the o-ring can help a little bit with the difficult endcap removal.
  4. I'm trying to stick with cells I already have. I have more than a hundred of LSD AA and AAA cells (mostly Eneloop) for all my devices (flashlights, controllers, homemade battery banks, radios, etc.), so I try to stick with my standardization of choice.
  5. I just finished the next iteration of my 9V to AAA battery adapter for my Pro-Pointer AT (Carrot). You can read about it in my blog post that will be uploaded soon (see my profile for the link, if you're that curious), but most of the "juice" is in the pictures. In case you're wondering (or you don't recall my prior blog posts about this building process😞 1. Yes, waterproof integrity is maintained.2. Yes, the performance when using this adapter is identical to using a regular 9V battery.3. Yes, this can still use a regular 9V battery.4. Yes, runtime is less than with a regular 9V battery, but should be enough to get you at least a full day (8+ hours) of run time. I estimate this will get you about 1/3 of whatever an alkaline 9V battery will get you.5. Yes, this can run on other types of AAA cells, including NiCd, NiMH, lithium (primary; think Energizer Ultimate Lithiums) and alkaline.6. I did this modification because I like tinkering and because I really hate 9V batteries. Background info of prior builds:
  6. I find it hard to believe anyone would disagree with this. So you're digging a hole, the Pro-Find 35 signals that your target is likely iron and you what, stop searching your hole and just move on? Yeah, ok... I suppose it's a feature to determine the composition of something you already found. But then again, wouldn't a plain old fridge magnet accomplish the same task? I assume so, but I'm no expert is magnetic properties.
  7. That would be a neat addition, but FTP is trying to sell more products, not less.
  8. That explains a lot, thanks! Looks like I have a bit of brainstorming to do...
  9. I've successfully removed 9V batteries from my Garrett Carrot (which now uses AAA batteries) and I've started on the process and getting rid of 9V batteries in my Fisher F2. I've taken the approach if trying to use a single battery to power the F2. A while back, I read from somewhere that the F2 ran off two 9v batteries running in parallel. However, this means that if I use a single battery for the F2, it should work (assuming the single battery has the ability to provide the necessary current). But when I try to use this set up, my battery gets warm. I eventually realized that the Fisher F2 is NOT using a "pure" parallel setup. If it were, it would not be creating a short circuit in my single power source setup. So my question is: how exactly is the Fisher F2 power wiring arranged? It's not parallel and it doesn't appear to be in series, either. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
  10. That's a good deal on a decent detector. I'd go that route. Then use the money you saved on a quality pinpointer.
  11. I've thought about that too, although it wouldn't be a course, but rather, a set location. I imagined it could be a small plastic kiddie pool filled with dry sand and say...6 out of a total of 10 possible buried objects, such as a clad quarter, clad penny, clad nickel, silver dime, silver quarter, sterling silver ring, 14K gold chain, pull tab, iron nail, skeleton key, etc. Each competitor would get point(s) for correctly identifying the object (without digging it up, of course) with a tie breaker being the shortest time taken to complete the hunt.
  12. What Steve said: contact the deal directly, but do not reveal your pressing need for the machine ASAP. You can mention it after you agree on a price, but whatever you agree on will most likely include USPS Priority Mail at best and if you need something by Friday, you'll want overnight or two-day shipping which could cost a pretty penny. I'd be surprised if you're able to get the 15% military discount on top of another significant cash discount, but I could be wrong. I'm guessing you could get the 15% military discount plus free overnight shipping. That's the best I imagine you can expect. And because shipping is important to you, you might have better luck finding a dealer that's close by, like the next state over.
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