Badger-NH

I doubt they are taking pre-orders for the Limited unless Fisher needs to get rid of the remainder of the 100 units that Rick hasn't been able to sell. I'd say they are just using the info sheet for the Limited because nothing else is available yet for the for the final machine. The 1000 pounds is the down payment. The finalized version should be available in a few months.

One beginner tip for dealing with Iron falsing is to walk around the target while swinging the coil. If the high tone disappears at certain angles(usually 90 degrees), the target is very likely iron. This is true 95% of the time. For now, just dig targets that give 360 degree tones. Like Chase said, any pinpointing quirks will be nothing more than a minor annoyance once you get used to using it. I'm perfectly happy using pinpoint myself. It just requires a little technique. You should definitely do your updates if you haven't already. There is no downside. The updates are improvements.

It's a pre-order. Same as they did with the Equinox. https://joanallen.co.uk/fisher-impulse-pre-order.html

Whenever I have more signals than I want to dig, I crank up the discrimination. Most of the trash is usually in the teens so I disc out everything below 20 or even 25. Once you've dug all the high conductors, open up the disc a bit down to 15 or 20 and dig those, and so on down to the single numbers until the site is devoid of non ferrous signals. But it doesn't end there. After digging all the easy signals, you can then work on getting the deep stuff and masked targets. That's when you can try using different settings and various single frequencies to get all those older targets hiding deep within the iron. It's normal for iron to give false high tones, especially from nails. Not much you can do about that. If there is a lot of thin flat iron or bottle caps giving high tones, raising the iron bias might help eliminate some of it. Setting the Recovery Speed at 7 or 8 in heavy trash or iron will make it easier to pick out the good repeatable signals. Lowering the Recovery to 4 or 5 will increase depth but might make it difficult to pick out targets in trashy situations. Your pinpoint problem may be that you are trying to pinpoint with the coil over the target. Try lifting the coil off the ground a bit and off to the side before swinging over the target. If there is too much metal in the ground, it may be impossible to use pinpoint mode.

I own both the F-75 LTD and T2 SE. I haven't tested them in the garden for a couple of years. As soon as we get some warmer weather I will try to do that. Maybe Feb/Mar. I don't know if the ziplocs would be that realistic. I think having the target metal in contact with the soil and having no interruptions within the soil matrix surrounding the target make a big difference. You can't get any more realistic ground conditions than that.

My test garden has a row of four silver dimes and a row of four silver quarters. The depths in each row get progressively deeper in one inch increments. The two deepest coins are buried at a depth just beyond the detection of most detectors so that the coil must scrub the ground to get a signal if you can get a signal at all. This makes it easy to see what settings get the best detection depth.

Same here. The Ultimate 13 is no better than the stock coil. I felt it was a waste of money.

Simply put, there is no blanking in all metal because nothing is being discriminated in all metal mode. Only discriminated targets will cause the Threshold to blank. If you go out of all metal, the Threshold will blank over most iron, as well as any non-ferrous targets that you have notched out.

I usually hunt in all metal but have the iron volume turned all the way down. That way I can tell how much is iron around but the low tones are quietly in the background and not bothersome. Running in all metal allows you to hear the entire signal, not just the broken parts of it. I hunt in all metal 90% of the time and rarely use any discrimination, but the notch feature is nice to have when you just want to cherry pick.

If you are not passing up targets then there is no need to notch anything, but I can only dig trash for so long. When I get tired after a few hours of swinging, I often start skipping over targets that are not coins. Switching to a coins only notch program at that point allows me to relax and increases my odds of finding a good coin before the end of the day.

Notching 17 and 18 will eliminate Trimes and some Half Dimes. If I was planning on returning many times in the future, I would start by notching out everything below 20. Then as I run out of targets, I would gradually open up the teens. If I only had one day there, your plan seems like a good one.

I didn't read the entire thread either, but I will say, I've been detecting for 25 years and have never needed a pinpointer at the beach. For the dry sand, you want a wire mesh scoop, or one similar to the Stealth above. Either a long handled or hand held type. Don't get the kind with the spaced out round holes, they don't sift well. The hand held mesh scoops are easy to make if you are good at building things. All you need is some half inch hardware cloth, some sheet metal and a pop rivet gun. Nor is there any need for a pinpointer in the wet sand. Once you get the target out of the hole, just kick the sand around with your foot to locate the target. Pinpointers are a necessity in the dirt, but if most of your hunting is at the beach, you don't need one. I only recently started using a long handled scoop on the wet sand. If you are on a budget, a plain old shovel will work just fine and a lot of times, I still choose a shovel over the scoop if there are any rocks around. Rocks will destroy a scoop in no time. Here is the hand held scoop that I made 20 years ago for the dry sand. I've dug holes nearly two feet deep with it and it still works great. 5" x 9" 3.5"

I've dug down two or three feet on some targets. The thought of walking away from large cache of coins can drive you crazy. So far, it has always turned out to be a big piece of iron or aluminum.

I like the button arrangement but the rewiring looks like a lot of delicate work.

I didn't say that you were ridiculous. I said your reason for not posting your finds was ridiculous. 🙂 Who cares if someone might think you are bragging. Ignore them. Their opinion means nothing.

I can understand reason two but reason one is ridiculous. You should never let those thoughts stop you from posting your finds. If you do well, we want to see it.

I would rather see two models. A heavier waterproof model and an ultralight, less expensive non-waterproof model. Waterproof is nice to have but not at the expense of extra weight and higher cost. Water resistant is all I need.

If I'm not mistaken, I think the conversation starts here. https://www.dankowskidetectors.com/discussions/read.php?2,166825,179346#msg-179346

In my test garden, I found no increase in depth on coins below a recovery speed of 4. It's nice to have settings lower than 4 but speeds that slow are not practical at most of the places I hunt. Maybe in some very clean soil with no iron or mineralization searching for larger targets, I might use 3, 2, or 1.

Yes, I depth tested it both ways with DST on and off, and saw no difference in performance. In fact, I saw little if any difference in EMI either, so I ran mine with DST off most of the time. I think I read somewhere that the difference between on and off was very small. Lots of F-75/T2 info if you search Tom Dankowski's site.

As far as I know, you can't have it both ways. By adding DST to the machine, you lose the performance of a non-DST machine. I have both the F-75 LDT DST and the T2 SE non-DST. The T2 is much hotter and gets nearly an inch more depth on a dime. They say the same thing about the original F-75.

Reducing the effects of EMI might detract from the performance of the detector as we've seen with the various F-75 and T-2 models. The models with DST (Digital Shield Technology) are less affected by EMI while the models without DST are noticeably deeper.

I've never heard of water scooters. What is it? Edit - I took me a while to figure out what you meant. I thought it might be some sort of water repellent spray that makes water scoot away. Then I Googled it. You meant add water scooters to the list of things that silicone grease is used on. Got it. .

Silicone grease will not harm the O-ring and will help prevent the metal from corroding. Many manufacturers of products that use O-rings such as camera housings and swimming pool pumps recommend using it. I've been using silicone grease on the rubber seal of my CZ-20 for over 20 years and it still looks like new. It actually helps prolong the life of O-rings by preventing them from drying and cracking. O-rings only need to be greased every 5 years or so. Metal maybe once a year at most. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-3-oz-O-Ring-Silicone-Grease-Tube-93003/304709587 It should prevent your headphone jack from corroding. Putting it on the threads will help keep water out. Put it everywhere that you don't want corrosion to happen with just a light coating on the jack post. It won't interfere with the connection. Also use it on your rod parts where they connect and the clamps as well. .

The headphones that come with the 600 are cheap throwaways. You will likely want to upgrade to something better. The Trond V4.2 Bluetooth phones work great both wired and wireless. I've had mine for two years. They were about $70 on Amazon. Half the price of the Minelab phones and equal in quality if not better. I find mine to be more comfortable to wear. I also have the Trond V5.0 transmitter which allows me use these headphones with all my other detectors and make them wireless as well.