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Jonathan Porter

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Everything posted by Jonathan Porter

  1. Monster sells really well here Simon, I think right now it is the most popular volume selling VLF on the market world wide. The key is its simplicity for new chums.
  2. Don’t think it’s about forcing you to buy into a new one but more to do with developing tools for the end user to upgrade which requires a lot of R&D dollars etc, when you consider the vast majority of Monsters end up in Africa where there are largely no computers or even service centres it ends up in the not viable basket. Just my opinion of course I really have no idea behind the real resistance but would say its down to resources on a mass selling extremely simple product into markets where the upgrade would never be used anyway. But I will say this, the new forced GB feature transforms the Monsters usability, the auto GB is really good over the ground but the second you lift it away it goes out then takes ages to get back again, in most cases I would just power cycle and let the forced GB at start up deal with the problem rather than pumping endlessly waiting for it to get its act together. It is also very handy to force a GB on a suspect hot rock, giving you more info to help make an educated guess. The GB on the Garrett 24K sounds interesting especially here in Australia where even our quiet ground can be quite variable.
  3. Simon does your GM1000 have the forced GB feature via holding in the disc on off? I pushed for this right from the start, it was introduced in later machines with no fan fair. An absolute must in an auto GB only machine.
  4. In a lot of cases the simple truth is that’s all that’s left. Hurts to realise that but some patches have been pounded so much they need a GPX6000 to bring them to life again or you have to move on to fresher fields and hope for the best. Finding even a tiny crumb is far better than nothing at all especially if you only have limited time or are constrained by a goldfield that has seen a lot of action over the years, I for one would go detecting for a fix on the most flogged ground imaginable if that was my only choice, having a chance to ping even a tiny crumbs is better than not going at all or coming home empty handed. The 6000 will be in vogue for years to come because those tiny pieces are so plentiful even on flogged ground, I can’t imagine what the sensitivity will be like when we get our hands on a 10” elliptical or some such, a PI with VLF like sensitivity, mind boggling. 😳 JP
  5. The GPZ 7000 sells really well in Africa, the 6000 is a PI so its GPX monicker is relevant. Other than coil choice the 6000 punches just as deep as the 5000 on large gold, when more coils come online (thanks to Coiltek) then coil choice will no longer be an issue. IMO Minelab have marketed for the smaller more plentiful gold finding ability of the GPX6000 because that is where it is excels with a very clear advantage, for larger deeper gold we have the GPZ7000, most places having already been pounded for years by the GPX5000’s etc with all sorts of coil types and sizes. The GPX6000 is not a toy but a fully fledged serious gold finder designed for all sorts of terrain, green fields ground or pounded flogged out areas. The coils provide for the GPX6000 tell the real story, GPX11 Mono for general purpose detecting with crazy sensitivity and very good depth, the GPX17 Mono for patch hunting also with crazy sensitivity for small pieces and good depth and the GPX14 DD for nasty areas with high EMI or salt ground. JP
  6. All the Hipstick’s we manufacture here now are actually printed around the D rings, with the original 3D printed versions developed by Chris Porter the ring was first split then forced through the printed head part after printing. In hot weather or in hilly terrain where sideway’s forces occur the D ring could be forced open and come away from the head. I not only use a Hipstick to control the weight of the detector (including the 6000) but also use them to help control and maintain smooth movement of the coil. It takes a while to learn how to swing when first using them but once learned they are invaluable for coil control. I can swing a 7000 without a bungee for about an hour but then all the connective tissue and ligaments around the elbow area and shoulders start to burn and ache, it’s nothing to do with strength but more to do with the need for those parts of your body to finely control the coil without hitting the ground, the better the control the better the gold find outcomes. Life without a Hipstick is just a recipe for a lot of unnecessary pain and potential long term injury. At The Outback Prospector we supply a free Hipstick with every GPZ 7000 we sell, including used ones. Buyers should also be wary of cheap counterfeit copies being flogged off on eBay and unscrupulous dealers etc. 😡 JP
  7. Think I’ll give the chum in the water a miss mate, this old Groper has seen enough lures to know when not to bite. 😂 or maybe I’m being a wise old owl and practicing “The Less he spoke the more he heard” philosophy? 🤔 😝
  8. Hi Rob, fire us a contact form via our web site (just use the detector hire link). You’ll get a closed for Christmas break email back but we can then get onto this once we are back in the office. My wife manages all the business emails etc so this is the best way to streamline things, I get yelled at if I verbal anything to her 😂 https://outbackprospector.com.au/contact-us/ JP
  9. Hey Rob, my son Timothy has taken on the Australian manufacturing of them here through our OBP store. Haven’t spoken with Chris in a while but would have no issue in helping out our mates across the pond. Store is closed for the summer holidays but will be back on deck again in a few weeks time on the 17th.
  10. Bad Social Media click-bait style non-factual material is like a monofilament net drifting in the ocean, it continues to fish/catch long after its intended use by date. 🤕😟
  11. A story teller needs to be creative and factual, telling stories is about finding ways to get your story across, this means time spent arranging the conditions to suit the medium you choose to tell your story with. I choose to not go down the path of social media content because I’m a purist and cannot justify the time required to create content to a level that fits my standards all for a 3 minute spot on YouTube that gets consumed like so much candy by a kid who knows there are packets and packets more just waiting to be scoffed on a whim. This is just my opinion but is why I choose to not feed the insatiable beast, think of it like a good reporter having to create content in an ever moving fast paced world, you either sink or swim but the issue is the standards suffer and the content you create becomes corrupted. It’s seems to me our world is just lowering the standards more and more each day to satisfy the need for more and more new material regardless of whether it’s peer reviewed or even factual. Who cares right? Just move on and ignore what was said by flooding the place with more and more sh*t. An insatiable beast that I refuse to feed! Trying to find a place in this fast paced medium where an ‘add water and stir instant expert’ has more clout than a factual super experienced actual professional operator is nigh on impossible, YouTube does my head in and I spend very little time watching anything to do with the subject I’m expert in, just way too many BS non factual remarks spoken as fact and cemented as fact because it was delivered by a few of these so called ‘Detectspert’s’ (Steve will get my meaning here). In my role as a metal detector shop dealer and trainer I spend way too much time trying to unravel YouTube misconceptions, lies deliberate or otherwise and utter BS only to have said customer go and become corrupted again by another arm chair expert. I sometimes even have to unravel misunderstandings of my own making because of content I created a long time ago which is now defunct due to software upgrades!! So that’s my opinion, but it does not address the very real need and demand for content within this sphere, trying to tap into this market with high end metal detectors is going to be very difficult, mainly because they are expensive, one is the need for training and time spent by dealers etc getting customers up to speed and secondly there are never going to be high volume sellers, the GPX6000 would have to be the most simple high end Gold machine Minelab have ever made yet to be proficient in its use requires more than just a flood of content on YouTube and TikTok. For the volume sellers that Minelab make there is an absolute need to have content created in this insatiable place, the people who put their toes in the water thanks to a TikTok piece going viral are the potential GPX6000 users of tomorrow (hopefully). JP
  12. Not at all, mine is tongue in cheek also. 🙃😁
  13. It’s a lot like reading FB and other online dross, sometimes you’ve just gotta dig through all the ‘lead shot’ posts to get to the gold nuggets.😬 😊 With the 6000 I can literally ping a nugget any time I want, it’s that good! So good in fact I actually don’t feel challenged by it, sounds arrogant I know but I really am spoilt for choice when it comes to finding gold, so the 6000 waits patiently for when I get into a gold slump and desperately need a fix to get me back on the straight and narrow. I have one of those scenarios in play right now so the 6K battery will be getting charged up over the xmas break so I can finish the year off with a flourish and maybe even harken in the new year with some fireworks action of my own, no alchemy involved just pure science. 😊 JP
  14. I think Simon has done a brilliant job of this thread, he’s written his POV and it has polarised some pure gold in the form of conversation and interaction, I for one thank him for having the courage to express his opinion in a visually enjoyable way. 😊 Many years ago a person who I respect told me that ‘opinions are like backsides, everyone’s got one’ 😝 (guess who? Hint his name starts with S 😊), so long as those opinions are not expressed in a way to cause another harm then you have a right to them including expressing them. Back to volume, Steves method IMHumbleO is best used with elevated Gain/sensitivity, you can kind of do this with the 6000 by using Auto+ in the hopes that the ground conditions will allow the auto sensitivity to rise above the pre-set level of the manual mode, the best way to confirm this is to listen to the variation of the threshold, if its gets a jitter going in auto+ mode then that suggest there is a bit more EMI flutter that becomes evident with elevated sensitivity. DO NOT be afraid to use the Manual control with the volume method described by Steve, I find I can run a lot more Manual sensitivity control with the volumes down. The other thing I have found is the BT volume of the standard headphones is pretty powerful so I tend to set them half way (push the - button until the volume is at it lowest level then slowly push the + button till it reaches its highest setting then divide by 2 (10 from memory)). The 6000 has a very dominant threshold so I recommend you set the volumes with the coil held flat in air as movement signal variation adds to the base threshold position. As Steve has said so long as you can hear the threshold you are good to go and you will be amazed how low you can run the volume before it starts to impact on threshold volume. I actually prefer to use the standard headphones direct wired so there is only one volume control, I do not like the way BT compresses the audio. The advantage of the lower volume is it smoothes out all the dross in the base threshold, all the imperfections that are not target related, the 6000 is a very nervous twitchy hyper sensitive detector and you need to train your brain to ignore a lot of the variability, when I see complaints about EMI this usually suggests poor coil control and too much volume being used as a sensitivity control which is back to front for good detecting. The above methods I’ve described are slightly different to what I’ve been playing with on the 7000 branching out from what Steve has touched on but in principle it all ties in extremely nicely when you think about it logically, where I was coming unstuck was not being prepared to increase Gain/Sensitivity on the 7000 sticking to more conservative operations and not taking advantage of the ‘pop through’ that Steves method achieves with high sensitivity, with low volume being the key. Once I combined the insane sensitivity with much lower volumes everything just fell into place. Once again thanks to Simon for creating this thread it has galvanised some good discourse on the subject of metal detecting and I hope he can forgive with all the drifting away from topic....
  15. Flak your opinion has merit in my eyes, thanks for the heads up. 😊 JP
  16. Steve, that’s the beauty of this forum, it allows for polarised views and also provides the opportunity for people to become enlightened and then change their POV, me very much included. 😊 As an example I’ve this past season taken on board your comments about running your machine flat out, something I have always discounted as nigh on crazy, because of that walleyed view I was missing a vital piece of information that you’d provided with your insane settings suggestions....... do you know what that is/was? Volume!! 🥴 I totally missed that you run your volume low. Well what a turn around that has been for some of my approaches to certain aspects of my detecting when the conditions allow for it, of course I’ve tweaked the concept to suit my particular tastes but the whole thing has coalesced out of your personal approach to detecting and willingness to share your ideas, so thanks mate. 😊 JP
  17. Hi Simon, you’ve made a decision you can’t see the value of the 6000 based on using it the worst way possible! 🙃 🤔 The GPZ7000 definitely gets a boost in sensitivity when using smaller coils but it still can’t hold a candle to GeoSense when it comes to early sampling. The science says differently to your reporting when comparing the two which is why Minelab developed the 6000 in the first place. There’s a reason why EMI is more problematic with the 6000 over the 7000 as per the science so attempting to do a comparison in a high EMI environment using a known problematic audio delivery method is fraught with potential pitfalls (As has often been discussed on these pages, IMHO the speaker is a rudimentary tool best used in remote locations or for basic target retrieval methods/convenience etc). I completely understand you’re very happy with your current set up and that’s fantastic but reporting negatively on something you clearly have no experience with to validate your position puts a downer on a really nice and appreciated post to the forum. I’ve spent many hundreds of hours probably more like thousands of hours behind the 6000 and I can assure you even with a very sensitive coil attached the 7000 does not even come close to what the 6000 can do, and I say that from the perspective of being a dedicated GPZ 7000 user. I prefer the 7000 over the 6000 because of what the 7000 can do scientifically, but if its to find a piece of gold no matter how small just about anywhere gold has been found before I would not even pause to consider anything BUT the GPX 6000 period. JP
  18. That’s most likely because the ones available for the 7000 are running very low gain and the Rx is tiny compared to the Tx, I’ve used plenty of concentric coils that have howled on salt and warbled like a cat on a hot tin roof around power lines. JP
  19. My apologies also for going off topic. The manual sensitivity control on the 6000 is extremely complex (much more complex than the Stabilizer of the older GPX machines and the Audio Smoothing off the GPZ7000) but outright sensitivity is not affected for near to coil targets even on its lowest setting (they sound fainter but that’s to do with the design of the control not the actual sensitivity). It’s quite easy to check this with a tiny nugget on the surface of the ground. The other way to get a glimpse of what is going on is to be in a quiet location and just raise the manual sensitivity from the lowest point listening to the threshold as you press the plus button until the sensitivity is at its highest point. Listening carefully to what is actually going on will soon give you a inkling into some of the cleverness of GeoSense. 😊 Once you get your head around the way the manual control behaves you’ll soon realise there will be some situations where you will not be able to use it to control noise levels, EMI is a good example but also salt conditions, conductive soil conditions and saturation. My general rule of thumb is once I find myself going down to below the 1/2 mark of the manual control I flick to the Auto+ mode and give it a few minutes to learn the ground, if that is too aggressive and has too much feedback then I will go to Auto mode and allow the conservative aspects of the mode to control the environment. I tend to find people cling onto way to much sensitivity for fear of losing depth and actually make their detectors way too noisy which then impacts on performance or more specifically your ability to find a target signal in amongst the overall noise levels. Lastly you need to keep on the Quick-Trak button, the better you get at keeping the detector in spec with the ground you’re working in the better the performance. Good coil control especially sudden lifting of the coil can impact on the Ground Balance fine tune that savvy operators habitually achieve. JP
  20. I just tested two GPX11 coils for different customers who were complaining about touch sensitivity, both coils when tested were perfectly fine. The 6000 is an incredibly sensitive high end metal detector and in both cases the first thing I did was take a look at the skid plate and sure enough both showed large amounts of wear damage from hard scrubbing in highly variable mineralised dirt (especially deep contact scratches/gouges), both coils were also used when the ground was damp and just as another huge weather front came through which has now drowned the surrounding area. Both coils when tested could be bashed and knocked about with NO touch noise, so the noise being heard was from the variable ground signal not from touch falsing. In variable soils that have saturation signals the particles in the gravels that cause the saturation along with clay particles become worse when wet so getting the coil right onto the ground will cause more than double the noise that was heard when the ground was dry, you combine that with high temperatures (36C and higher prior to the rain) where the coil cables become very soft the combination of increased salt signal and conductive signals in combination with more EMI from approaching weather and the constant ground signals created by scrubbing the coil will make the detector sound like it is touch sensitive. Best bet when the ground is wet and the ground is conductive is to keep the coil up a bit and not actually contacting the ground, this will allow the Ground Balance to function correctly and more than halve the variable signals created by close to ground contact. Keep the coil lead a little loose on the shafts to prevent stiction especially in warmer weather to avoid cable noise, try to avoid rapid coil change of direction movements as this will exacerbate cable wobble noise (left right rapid signals as the shafts flex, but also up/down salt signals because the ground is wet). Lowering the Sensitivity on the manual mode will not remove these problem signals, only good coil control and not contacting the ground will do that. If you actually want to reduce “actual” sensitivity then you need to use one of the two Auto modes, my recommendation when the ground is water logged and the ground is variable ect is to use the Auto mode and allow the sensitivity to measure the ground you are working without all the constant ground feedback, this especially helps if you do not have precise coil control. Auto and Auto+ are the only modes that actually change the ‘real’ sensitivity on the GPX6000, so in quiet soils the Auto+ can increase the actual sensitivity beyond the manual modes preset, whereas Auto mode is more conservative but in situations like we have here in Clermont at the moment it can make a huge difference to your ability to continue detecting after BIG rain events. Right now because of the conditions I have three choices if I want to go detecting with the GPX6000, I can either use manual mode on a conservative setting and maintain very precise coil control, or I can use the Auto mode if the manual mode is too fatiguing (especially if I have to lower the manual sensitivity control to below 1/3) or lastly I can revert to a DD coil and use Salt mode in extreme cases. I suggest the salt mode option last because it has the biggest impact on outright depth compared to the 11” Mono coil option so is best used in extremely salty ground where the mono coil is just too noisy. Hope this helps JP
  21. My super has been doing pretty OK this year too thanks, but it did take a tumble there at one stage along with the gold price. I often see their shares get a bit flighty when the Gold Price bounces around. A lowering trend just means an opportunity for people to buy in cheap IMHO, gutsing it out before you grab a bargain is the hard part or if you invested when it was higher gritting your teeth during the downward trends 😣.
  22. A lot of Australian shares tanked and took a BIG hit over that time frame, even gold took a dump there at one stage (my superannuation was another frightener, I really do need to stop looking at it so regularly 😞). A lower share price might mean a good opportunity to get in cheap on quality undervalued shares especially now that gold is climbing again. 🤔
  23. I’m grateful for your friendship Steve. Well said and truly appreciated. 🙂 JP
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