Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Gold Modes While I Was Hunting In Parks And Lawns

Recommended Posts

Mostly Gold 2.
I tried G2 once before but yesterday I used it for a whole hunt.
I was using the sniper coil, also.

I have mineralized SE dirt plus a ton of extra iron everywhere that comes in all forms from microscopic to nails of all sizes up to horseshoe sized and even larger.
I opted for the 800 over the 600 primarily because I didn't know exactly what settings would turn out to be optimal for my challenging sites and wanted to have all available options possible.
I would rather have settings and not need them then not have them and need them.
I am a mad scientist of sorts and I am not afraid to try some very outside the box settings on my detectors and the patience to keep at it.
I am just starting to experiment with the possible settings, I have used a few of the factory settings, park and field  1 and 2, tweaking them a bit here and there and good things are happening and yesterday I messed around with the two gold settings for the first time.
I like it, it seems to work pretty well here and I got used to the super amount of data overload very quickly because of my past experience using my F70.
I found out using my Fisher lots of settings work well but the best and most productive set up I ever used is when I have it in all metal, the threshold setting set to max and the sensitivity also maxed out plus with the speed on SL...boost, most of the time.
Noisy, jumpy, schizophrenic...you don't know the half of it.
A friend watched me go right behind him and find targets he missed completely and asked what settings I was using once so I let him see and hear what was happening using these settings as we walked around.
He was flabbergasted, he asked me how in the world I could make any sense at all out of the shear wall of sound and jumping numbers and I told him it took hundreds and hundreds of hours over the last few years practicing to be able to do just that.
I like hunting quietly too, way less mentally fatigueing that way, but when it counts here in my strange devil dirt I would much rather get data on everything that is happening under my coil and use my ears, brain and experience as my prime discriminator.
When I switched to the gold modes it took very little time to get used to it...it almost felt natural and like home to me.
I was using the small sniper coil through all of this hunt, not thrilled with the small footprint but masking is my most challenging problem here so it will be staying mounted on the bottom of my lower rod for the foreseeable future.

On these modes I used factory settings but made sure to set reactivity to 6.

So exactly what were my observations using the gold modes looking for normal coin and jewelry targets...

1...This mode can sense the smallest targets, it seemed to lock on some very tiny pieces of foil all day pretty solidly and accurately even fairly deep like at 5-6".
I can see why gold hunters would use this, extreme sensitivity.
Using these settings I watched the screen pretty closely most of the time but I was listening for some solid good tones with sharp ends even closer.

2...Depth, even with the small coil depth was very good even in my devil dirt where sensing anything accurately  past 6" is usually a gift.
All I really need to hit is the 6-7" level because that is where there is a layer of great targets that have been missed for years by huge amount of hunters with all kinds of detectors because of masking, however there are some targets deeper in some areas and it would be nice to be able to go deeper if possible.
On this hunt I got a very jumpy signal that went from lower numbers up into the 30's and that usually means iron falsing around here but I got a deep depth reading so I got curious.
In the hole I opened there were a couple of rusty nails on my way down, common around here, but there was still something pretty big deeper so I kept going even though I knew it was probably going to be junk.
I finally hit it and I didn't measure but this thing had to be at a minimum of 10"...could have been a bit deeper.

I am still shocked I hit this thing that deep with the sniper coil.

It is pictured below, a very old nozzle that had to be down there for many decades because it has fallen completely apart past the screw on end part.
I think it is probably a water nozzle, it seems too big to be for gas or anything else I know of but the metal that is just above that end is thin, brittle and falling apart.
Only extreme age and a long dirt nap can do that to metal.
Conclusion...if I was going relic hunting I would probably be using gold modes instead of others to get the deepest in my mineralized mess.
I still have to compare to other modes but what else can I ask for when looking for deeper targets?

3...Coins on edge.
I can't say for sure but on two coins I came across, in areas I have scoured in the past by the way, I hit the tightest, smallest, quickest signals I can remember getting so far but they sounded so good I stopped in my tracks and had to dig them.
One was a quarter that came up when I flipped up the plug and the second was a Susan B Anthony dollar coin that literally flew out of the dirt when I flipped over that small plug.
I am pretty sure both of these were on edge, the dollar coin almost definitely but I can never know for sure.
On the dollar coin I did try a few other modes and to me it did not seem to hit that coin quite as well as the gold mode did but I did not try them all and I might have not been over the exact area of the target with the others because I didn't suspect I was swinging over an on-edge coin at the time.
All I can say is in gold 2 even with the small coil and over this unusually tiny signal I was able to hit it easily and get 29-30 numbers to show up very solidly from more than one direction.
I wasn't going super-super slow either...I was not crawling but moving the coil at my normal speed ant that solid quick tone really stood out every time I passed over that spot.
On both these coins it was the tones that alerted me to them first, I didn't even look at the screen and see the good, repeating quarter numbers until I stopped and examined the area after I heard those tones.

At this point I still don't know exactly what will work the best here or what will be the best setting combinations to make it the easiest for me to notice targets but I do know that these all in gold settings, especially gold 2, with a bit faster reactivity is definitely something that isn't the easiest but definitely can produce once I get some more practice.

More to come.


Susie B.jpg

  • Like 8
  • Thanks 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hard to believe no responses to this post. Quite a few users are finding the Gold Modes useful for more than just prospecting, and there have been requests made to Minelab asking for a VCO option in the other modes. VCO tends to evoke a love or hate response from people. As a nugget hunter from way back I cut my teeth on VCO and so I am one that loves it.

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wish we could chose the audio output tones for people like me that have a bad hearing problem in the two Gold modes.  

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have tested gold mode out in a few tot lots.  Usually when I want to clear out every bit of foil and every bobby pin (surprising they are still used in abundance around my area)… and hopefully small gold.  It is a powerfully sensitive tool. If only I lived near gold country, I would be prospecting with the 800 regularly. ~Tim.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By phrunt
      My new T2 arrived this week so I decided I'd take it out for a test run today, I haven't bothered detecting football fields before, it never really crossed my mind to do so especially small town football fields that barely ever get used.  I think the last time I even saw people on this thing was about a year ago and they were riding a horse 🙂
      I guess back in time it was probably a popular place and my results today show this.  This is going to be more of a picture story as the pictures tell 1000 words! 
      I started using the T2 with Mars Tiger coil and within two minutes of arriving I had my first coin, then another, then another..... it was nuts, coins everywhere and very little junk, I was finding nice old coins, possibly one of my oldest in a while too

      Silver 🙂

      1938 British Penny

      The T2 was getting good depth, easily hitting on coins with good ID's, another silver!

      1948 Penny -  Now NZ currency, not British like the older Pennies, we used some British currency until 1967. 
      Prior to 1933 United Kingdom currency was the official legal tender of New Zealand, although Australian coins and notes were also generally accepted.
      The first New Zealand penny was minted in 1940. The penny ran until 1965, when New Zealand stopped minting pre-decimal coins in preparation for decimilisation in 1967.

      I have no idea what this thing is

      This is the football field I was detecting, under the goal posts and along the end of the field had a good collection of coins,  I guess from all the diving with the ball and coins in the players pockets, I don't know much about football, probably the only NZ male who has no clue about the game 🙂

      My oldest find of the day, a British 1912 One Penny

      It was quite deep down but the T2 banged on it real hard with a solid ID.  At this point I decided I'd go home and gear up better as this place obviously has a lot of good old coins.  I was only using my T2 with Carrot and Lesche digging tool which was hard work with all the coins being so deep.    I wanted a bigger coil to cover more ground but there was no way I was going to strap on the 15" Teknetics coil to continue using the T2 as it weighs a tonne.  I opted for the Equinox with it's 15" coil  and almost straight away after turning it on, another coin

      1950 NZ One Penny.  I left the bit of dirt on the coil up the top it came out of, I love when you get the impression of the coin in the soil.

      Another silver, 1934 Shilling

      This is the hole it came from, I always recheck my holes and I'm glad I did, another target in the hole, then another... this was crazy

      3 Silvers in the hole so far, 1934 Shilling, 1934 Shilling and a 1946 Sixpence, I was sure this was it but I did another check and off to the side of the hole, ANOTHER SILVER

      Another 1934 Shilling, 4 silvers in one hole, incredible!   Someone had a bad day.

      1964 Sixpence... the coins just kept coming, all old ones.  No longer are they made of silver in 1964...

      Nice and deep though
      My first modern coin, a $2

      But look how deep it was, it was deeper than a lot of far older coins.... weird!

      Another two in one hole, just one cent coins from back when NZ had one cent coins.

      Another coin leaving a cool impression of itself in the soil, just a one cent I think

      It sure a lot of ground to cover, I'll be at this place for weeks... plenty more coins to find I'm sure.  Time to head back to the car, with my coil to the soil.

      Another for the road 🙂 Double sided impression on the soil with this one.  I couldn't possibly put up a photo of every coin find as there were just too many, all in about 3 hours detecting.

      The good stuff

      The bad stuff... not a bad ratio, good stuff far outweighed bad stuff, unusual for me.... I'll be back there tomorrow.... and the next day.... and the next day 🙂
    • By Tnsharpshooter
      https://www.minelab.com/__files/f/339677/EQUINOX SOFTWARE UPDATE A4 EN
      How To Rollback Equinox To Previous Software Version
      Minimum System requirements:
      USB 2.0 port
      EQUINOX USB Charging Cable with Magnetic Connector
      Windows 7, 8, 10
      50 MB of hard drive space
      20 MB of RAM
      MAC OS
      Greater than 10.10 Yosemite
      50 MB of hard drive space
      30 MB of RAM
      Only one EQUINOX can be connected to the computer during an update operation. The EQUINOX must be ON during the software update. Any custom detector settings will be preserved while performing the update. An internet connection is required to download the Minelab Update Utility to the computer, however, an internet connection is not required to update the EQUINOX and this can be done offline. The EQUINOX coil must be connected to perform the update. Important: Do not turn off or disconnect the EQUINOX during the update process.
      Download the MINELAB Update Utility here.
      Click for larger images....

    • By Againstmywill
      On the advice of others on this forum, I called Minelab today to inquire about the play I've had in the shaft on my Equinox since day one. When I called back in 2018, they wanted me to send the whole detector in to get looked at. This time they said they would send the three pieces my way, and I just need to send the originals back to them. Has that been your experience for those in the same situation? 
    • By Ridge Runner
      As said I like both the Sport and the Nox face . The great thing about them as you hunt you can really look at the face of each and know what you have notched out . What makes the Nox even better over the Sport is you can notch out one number at a time .
       Oh I know the Nox has so many fine qualities over the Sport it will never have but like the Nox it has a pretty face .
       I don’t know why but a pretty face always tugs at my heart strings and a detector is no different.

      White's MX Sport Display and Controls

      Minelab Equinox Display & Controls
    • By Luv863
      I replaced the end plug on my Nox and thought others might like the idea. I don't know if anyone else has done this before but I replaced the plug with a bicycle handle bar plug. This was done purely for cosmetic purposes as the plastic end plug it had did its job just fine. These are the ones I went with https://www.amazon.com/PRO-Bicycle-Handlebar-Plugs-Black/dp/B00JATNUGS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pro+bar+end+plugs&qid=1567359452&s=gateway&sr=8-4 . Just a simple plastic compression plug with a nice aluminum cap. They came with black coated steel screws though so I'll replace them with stainless ones when I get the chance.
      There are other brands, styles, and colors of these types of plugs but just make sure to get the right dimensions to fit inside the shaft and not interfere with the arm cuff screw. Many of the listings don't specify the dimensions of the plug. The ones I got have an OD of 23.5mm (the smallest I could find) and my shaft OD is 22.2mm so there's a tiny bit of overhang but my arm cuff is all the way to the rear so it didn't bother me. The only thing I had to do to make them fit was trim about 1/2 in. off the end of the screw to keep it from hitting the arm cuff inside the shaft and I also used some blue loctite to ensure the screw doesn't back out.

    • By phrunt
      I have a very early Equinox, after buying the 15x12" coil mine rapidly developed the dreaded shaft wobble, the bottom cam lock just wouldn't tighten enough to stop the shaft wobbling and swinging the big coil really made it obvious, then going back to the little 6" and the problem went away.  I contacted Minelab about it and they were great and sent me out a new shaft pronto which was nice. 

      They used international express from OZ so it arrived within a few days.
      I then started paying attention to the aftermarket shafts and saw a few people were enjoying using various carbon fiber shafts so I thought i'd try one out.  I went with a Detect-ED shaft, the Classic 3k Twill
      It arrived today, the local courier was kind and delivered it on a Saturday for me seeing I know her, saved me waiting for Monday when it would normally arrive.
      I also purchased some of the Coil saver washers he's selling.
      The washers are interesting, two sizes that you mix and match to get your coil so you don't need to over tighten the bolt to help keep the coil in place nicely.  They seem to do as described, one red and one black on each side of my shaft seemed to do the trick, I can have my bolt just slightly turned and my coil is nice and tight but still moves when I want it to with ease like when I put my detector down.

      4 Red's (thicker) and 4 blacks to mix and match with.
      The shaft is lighter, it's more noticeable with the big coil as anything to take a bit of weight off when swinging that thing is nice

      You'll see I have a ferrite choke on my coil cable, not sure if it does anything but I've got plenty of them so why not 🙂
      It took about 5 minutes to put the Nox on the shaft and it came with the tool required to remove the control pod off the old shaft.
      The clip that lets you shrink/expand the shaft is nice quality, it's quick and easy to reduce the size of my Nox for transport now.
      So far I really like it, I can't see any negatives to the upgrade and my Nox now feels much higher quality, I really felt the stock shaft made the Nox feel cheap. I think it's far too good of a detector to run off that basic cheap junky shaft.
      I now just want to source a better quality arm cuff.
  • Create New...