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Northeast

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  1. I'm the same as Lacky. Profind 35. Only one I've had. Works fine.
  2. Wow! That would have been very hard. Well done. Best of luck with the book and hopefully it helps many others too πŸ‘
  3. I assume the States are getting the full Relic Pack with the 5500? Will only see the Prospectors Pack in Australia from what I’ve heard πŸ˜‰ A great stocking filler!
  4. Sounds almost too good to be true but if it proves successful that would be certainly amazing! If you would like an Australian tester I would be keen πŸ‘
  5. Good to see you back JP. Are you keen to relate some of your recent travels/finds? In a different thread of course. πŸ˜‰
  6. I love the idea Mitchel but my bank balance said no 🀣 Be great to meet some of the guys on here and catch up with you again. One day it will happen - but not in the next 7 years I reckon 😐
  7. Chrisco, bit off topic but everything you need to know should be here (it's this weekend coming). https://www.prospectingaustralia.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?id=30879&p=1
  8. Again Rob, thanks for answering πŸ‘ It's a shame we may never see it again. You would wonder how the publisher gets any benefit out of holding the rights to something that he never has any intention of doing anything with. Even putting it on Amazon as an ebook would get them some return. Anyway, I'm about to hit the button on purchasing Chris Ralph's book so that will be a good start. Thanks again πŸ˜‰
  9. I have zero electronics wizardry. Do you know why it HAS to be the same length of wire? More to do with how the detector transits and receives a signal across multiple coil sizes and brands I am guessing? Cheers, NE.
  10. Thanks geof_junk. I started reading that link and after a few pages realised it was 27 pages long 😯 I am happy to read all of it as I am sure there will be interesting stuff along the way, but was there a specific page/post that you were referencing? Thanks for responding Rob. This does not make it easier not to have a copy 🀣 Is there any chance that you would be approaching the publisher again? Would a multi-dealer order help things? The link to the thread that geof_junk provided mentioned Bill Southern was putting in an order for this book but that was a fair few years ago and I cannot find on his website that he actually sells any books now. I recognise you are competitors but an order from yourself, Bill and Gerry might get it over the line? Out of interest, you mention 'Follow the dry washers' is in your top 3. If you would indulge, which other 2 books make the list? Thanks for your time. NE.
  11. Thanks gents. Even before Jim’s passing the prices were crazy and that was on second hand books. I can’t find new stock at all. I also know nothing about copyright laws and who owns what and where consent needs to come from. I guess I am hoping one of the dealers on here may have been having discussions with the publisher hoping to restock their own shelves. I would prefer the most recent edition but if it comes up nought then I will settle for edition 7 - 2004.
  12. A question for you Chris when you get a chance. Is this book available as an ebook (I cannot find one but worth asking)? Or, will it soon be an ebook? Also, before I go and spend the coin is there a chance there will be a 2nd edition coming out soon? I understand this may be a hard question to answer for legal/publisher/commercial reasons. Cheers, NE.
  13. Evening all, I am having trouble finding a copy of Follow the Dry Washers Edition 3 Volume 8 2015 available for sale. Rob Allison's website has them as out of stock. I can only assume that there is no chance there will ever be another re-print? Be great if it was made available as an ebook. I guess with Jim's passing the family would have to give consent to this? Any help to obtain a copy at a price that doesn't involve selling a kidney would be most appreciated. NE.
  14. Hi Erik. You mention that where you are going in Tanzania there is mineralised ground, but is there trash? A VLF (Equinox, CTX, Gold Monster, etc) is only going to be a real benefit if there is trash and you are wanting to minimise the amount of holes you dig. IF, there is minimal trash, high mineralised ground, you have the money to spend on a CTX - I would buy an SDC 2300 (it's a PI machine). Small, compact, rugged, waterproof, rarely has issues with mineralised ground, extremely easy to use, picks up fine and wiry gold and likely a good resale value if you want to sell it at the end of your adventure. If the ground is really mineralised then any VLF will struggle to a fair degree. Best of luck with your adventure whatever unit you choose to buy πŸ‘
  15. That's an interesting website Phrunt. JR - that is just a plain bugger! A lot of work had gone into that album - not just the pics but the words to go with them. Just looking through the link Phrunt put up it reminds me again how awesome those big nuggets are. Hope you get something (easy) worked out to get it up and running again.
  16. Wow. Without anything next to them for comparison it is hard to tell size. I had that bigger bit pegged for an 8-10 gram piece. Nice character in it. I’ve seen the damage a 15” Evo can cause - great coil πŸ‘
  17. Nice gold Busho. Evo 15" or smaller? The larger lump in the top pic - any idea on weight? Looks solid. Hope you're feeling better soon πŸ‘
  18. I see these words posted a lot too. A new adage is needed perhaps. A low, slow, flow. Low to the ground. Slowly move forward (plenty of overlap). Flow the coil over the ground. Not rushed, not barely moving, just flowing. You read it here first on DP forum 🀣
  19. Hi 2Valen, I find the Minelab headphones pretty comfy but yes, they can get sweaty and I also don't like the fact that you can't hear any surrounding sounds. These headphones plugged in to your WM08 work great, don't actually sit in your ears so aren't sweaty and can allow you to hear what is going on around you. Any other earbud type things should just plug into your WM08 too. https://www.philips.com.au/c-p/SHQ1400CL_00/actionfit-sports-headphones Sorry about the ridiculously large image πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ Cheers, NE.
  20. You won’t get too many arguments on those comments!! It’s a great place to learn.
  21. Evening Jin, This is an interesting question and 20 people will answer it 20 different ways. I am really missing the Z as I felt very in-tune with it and had great confidence that I was not missing anything. Blind and naive confidence of course ? but a lot of this game is having confidence in your gear. I found that anywhere up past a Sensitivity of 12 or 13 would get noisy with my unit but EMI was the factor more so than ground noise. Even with the coil dead still it would be pinging and bopping and zinging - every now and then I would even get a weeeoooWW. Somedays were better than others, stormy days were horrid, over head air traffic created short term issues. I assume you have an SPO1 and I had a B&Z but brand is probably neither here nor there with this. I used to run my Volume at 1 and then turn the booster right up to my desired volume. JP once wrote that he felt turning the Volume up by 1 was akin to turning the Sensitivity up by 2 when it came to increasing the unwanted noise (JP please correct me if I have taken that out of context). These settings allowed me to up the Sensitivity just a little more to try and brighten those faint signals - but not so much that there is too much noise to concentrate or hear through. I didn't run a dead smooth Threshold but it certainly erred on the smoother side of things. My noisy detector analogy is a tumble dryer with a 50 cent piece in it. Just a 50 cent piece - you will hear easily even if you are 2 rooms away and have a low Sensitivity to that specific target. A 50 cent piece and ten 5 cent pieces. A lot more noise to filter out, probably hear the 50 cent piece most of the time and not too fatiguing to listen too. Probably make out the sound of the 50 cent piece 1 room away. A 50 cent piece and one hundred 5 cent pieces. Bombarded with noise. Very fatiguing. Stand right next to the dryer and you will probably hear the 50 cent sometimes but there is so much else going on you start second guessing whether you actually heard it or was it just the rest of the background clatter? And then you start going faster, turning down the volume because it is so draining and then you end up at the pub ? The only time I ever used a high Sensitivity that was obnoxious was when I was sure I had a tiny target and I was having trouble locating it. Going from 10 up 17 or whatever really livened up the signal to help pin point it. Or where I had a really small area that was an old timers wash up area and it had tiny, tiny pieces that the high sensitive also helped with. But it was not a sustainable way to detect (for me). My 2 cents worth. Maybe something in there will help. And then how it all relates to the X coils I am not sure. I hope the X coils work out for you. Pat's patch lead certainly looks the goods ?
  22. I probably should have mentioned this earlier... I wrongly thought early on that my WM12 was taking a very, very long time to charge. It would blink for hours past when the actual detector battery was full. One day I noticed that after only an hour or so both showed they were charged but I didn’t immediately take them off the chargers as I was busy doing something else. Came back after a while and the WM12 was blinking again. I left it and it blinked for ages. Hmmm, I thought ? So I took a lot more notice from then on. This happened every time. They would both show charged and then a little time later the WM12 would start β€˜charging’ again. So I guessed that it wasn’t the battery but actually the charger that was the issue. Somehow reading the battery as full (which it probably was) and then picking up a slight drop in voltage or something and starting charging again but with no end. I always charged both detector battery and WM12 using the supplied charger. Perhaps this is what is happening to others where it appears to be trying to charge for hours ?‍♂️
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