GB_Amateur

I sent mine in for warranty repair over a year ago. I don't remember the exact symptoms but I seem to recall it was acting very erratically, sounding off when no metal present and not giving any indication when metal was present. They replaced quite a bit (I could tell from the included repair invoice list) including the housing. Mine went bad after I used it in water and I think it had a cracked housing which leaked (they never told me that, though). Their service was very good, although maybe not lightning fast. I don't know how many hours I have on it since the warranty repair (in the hundreds) but now the LED is erratic, sometimes on after the unit is turned off and sometimes off when the unit is turned on. The only reason I ever paid attention to the LED was to see if the unit was turned on (obviously can't do that anymore) and my biggest concern is that it will run the battery down while turned off. A few times I've taken the battery cap off and then back on to get the LED to go out, but I don't always and most of the time it's in the back of my vehicle so I wouldn't know if the LED is on or off. I have two White's TRX's; one is on-the-fritz (out of warranty) and I've been procrastinating sending it in for repair. After the holiday rush... I wore out the switch -- that was easy to diagnose as it doesn't always do what I want (come on or go off with a push) and even when I get it on it will unexpectedly turn itself off. Maybe I'm hard on pinpointers. I like both models when they are working properly and I use both when coin hunting -- Carrot for initial response and TRX for the fine tuning when recovery is imminent and I want to make sure I don't hit the coin with my digging tools. Small items that are out of the hole but still difficult to locate can also lead to me using one or the other in that situation. There are lots of reports on standard detectors and how well they work under different conditions, etc. Unfortunately there seem to be a paucity of info on pinpointers. I'll be glad to read Simon's upcoming report.

That's a problem in many parts of the world. Lying in bed last night I was thinking about my upcoming "Detecting New Year's Resolutions" of expanding my detecting horizons. We have ghost towns, too. (I recall reading the number of USA ghost towns that still exist -- can't remember but something like more than 50,000?) And as you point out, many good detecting sites have disappeared due to development, both residential and commercial. We (i.e. all detectorists) can sit back and lament or go find the juicy sites that remain. 2021 will be as good as we choose to make it.

A silver Roosie would make may day on 3/4 of my hunts. I'm sure you didn't mean that as a slam/put-down, but the reality is that metal detecting is about making the most of the situations/conditions for which you have access. We in the Eastern USA certainly have time on our side, in the sense that this part of the continent was settled by Europeans earlier (in the case of the Atlantic coast, much earlier) than the West. But as is the case with native gold detecting, although we have that commodity in the ground as well, we don't have the luxury of federal lands that are still even today in 2020 (despite all the whining from many who remember better days) a big advantage in most kinds of detecting. Here if you want a chance to find the best you need to get permission. Some are very good at that (the same people who got dates in high school?) and some aren't. But as I said in a previous post, you guys are very good at research and given the 50+ years that detectors have been in peoples' hands, that is critical to being able to achieve the best finds. So good on you (sincerely) and I look forward to sharing your Western USA opportunities in the limited times I'll be able to access those lands with you (after this pandemic hiatus). Thanks again for sharing your experiences. It is quite inspiring.

I also noticed this and then wondered if they had an article in that issue about prospecting. (That's what you say when you get caught, anyway. Just ask Gerry.) Quite a library! Who is the author of middle row, second from left titled The Prospector's Handbook?

Yes, but these were implemented by returning the detector to the factory for the upgrade, right? There have also been reports here of First Texas upgrading the Teknetics Omega 8000 to the 8500 for free when in for repair for other reasons.

Excellent point, and one Steve H. has made so many times that I think he got tired of saying it and just bows out on the topic. I do think native gold detectorists in particular are especially sensitive to this. They typically have to deal with such different ground conditions (even widely varying on a local scale) that they tune their detectors for the site every time out, and sometimes even in the middle of a hunt. Many carry nuggets or pseudo-nuggets (small lead) with them and start the day by putting those in the ground at varying depths, tuning the detector to maximize their signals. The key, IMO, is to know what the different settings mean and how that affects performance. For the Minelab Equinox, the key settings are choice of modes followed by Recovery Speed and Iron Bias. Even selection of single frequency vs. multifrequency and which single frequency to choose can apparently squeeze out some targets that might otherwise be missed on occasion. Secondarily (for the 800 model), setting # of tones, tone breaks, tone volumes, and tone pitches help one's brain focus in on the targets of interest. (Notching has similar effect, and most modern detectors have some level of that.) So, yes, tune your detector for your site conditions. A good mantra that unfortunately many of us (myself included) too often forget to apply. P.S. I failed to mention Noise Cancelling and Ground Balance adjustment in my 'keys'. I guess those are so second nature to me, and they typically tell you when they are set incorrectly. But according to some knowledgeable detectorists, sometimes they can remain silent and still not be in their best positions, leading to suboptimal performance. Simultaneous Multifrequency detectors (at least the ML Eqx) use the multiple frequencies to effect a ground balance which is why the Eqx manual downplays the need to go through a ground balancing procedure. But there is evidence that taking the extra step helps.

A problem software vendors (in general) had in the past with charging for upgrades is that someone would buy a copy/license and then pass it around to friends/coworkers. Even when there was a built in limit on the number of times the software upgrade could be used, eventually someone would hack into it, removing the valuable upgrade parts and posting them on the internet. I don't know if the software security designers were ever able to close these loopholes. Given how often metal detector hardware and software is pirated/counterfeited now, my guess is that the manufacturers aren't keen on creating one more seemingly profitable path only to have it stolen and then need to involve lawyers and courts. As it is now, a certain (significant) percentage of metal detector sales comes from units that hardly get used ('closet queens'). And if you're not sure which model in a particular line (e.g. Minelab Vanquish) is best for you, many will choose to get the most expensive one from the start. Those who buy low at the beginning may end up 'upgrading' to a higher end model, effectively buying two detectors. The manufacturers have us trained! Bottom line opinion is that I think your idea works, just not profitably.

Wow! I wasn't sure if I'd seen a better haul of yours this year and thus my question. You guys do great research and your results show that. Keep it up (as long as you tantalize us with your finds photos 😉).

I agree that over the entire country they weren't popular. The 'Wild West' contained a different breed in the 19th Century and apparently that carried over into the 20th Century. (See Tom_in_CA's post.) Want to find gold coins? Are you better off searching in the Eastern USA or the Western USA? Back then the population in the East completely dwarfed the West. Now California is the most populous state and many Western cities like Seattle, Phoenix, Las Vegas, Denver, Dallas Fort Worth, Houston, Austin,... are among the largest, and I didn't mention a single California city. If I want to find old paper money I'll stick to East of the Mississippi. If I want to maximize my chances of finding gold coins and silver dollars I'm headed West (after the pandemic's over, so you Western USA guys have several more months before you're threatened ).

That is very high trash density. Have you tried the 6" coil? Less ground coverage but compensated for by fewer co-located signal headaches.

Drawer pull for a tiny drawer? The long (relatively speaking) shank allows it to be firmly and accurately located. Can you tell if the hole is threaded? Could also be similar but for a lid on a small wooden (or even glass) container, such as a tobacco jar or makeup or jewelry container. I like the way you nonchalantly tossed in 'another' for your FE cent. 😁 I haven't found any of those early cupro-nickel cents (yet). Good to see that new coil is paying off. I wondered if it would hang up on the vegetation. (I'm going to attach a polycarbonate sheet to the bottom of my just arrived Mars Sniper 6"x10" for my Fisher F75 so I can use it in similar conditions. Probably attach a 'lid' on the coil, too, to keep rubble from piling up in there.)

That Barber quarter is a beauty, conditionwise, and scarce! Is that your best find of 2020? The wear on the Morgan dollar shows how popular these coins were in the mining/ranching towns of the West. Even as late as this was lost (early 1900's?) people weren't trusting local banks. That would prove prophetic in the early 1930's.... Needless to say those coins would top my lifetime bests list. Thanks for videoing (particularly under those raw conditions) and showing us your goodies.

I would guess a talcum powder can shoulder and lid. Suggestion to posters, either include in the photo a graduated scale (e.g. ruler) or a common item everyone knows (e.g. common coin).

Now that you've posted a better photo (thanks for that) I've noticed that the title is "VETERAN OF FORE N WARS" (sic). It makes me wonder if this tag/medallion is a generic format that allows the customer to enter letters and numerals (up to a limit) to be printed in certain areas -- here above the flag and around the lower rim. I also only count 36 stars on the flag, and seven (not 13) stripes. (There was an official USA flag with 36 stars but the layout of rows was different than shown on your medallion and it was only in use from mid-1865 to mid-1867.) Kinda strange someone would go to the trouble of making a meaningful medallion with such misrepresentations.... And now I'm even more curious to read what the VFW post responds!

One possibility is that this tag was tossed into the ocean near the beach as a memorial to a now deceased veteran who was involved there or nearby during the 2nd World War. tvr's idea of contacting the post can't hurt. They might even request that it be returned to the sea (attached to a rock so it doesn't so easily wash ashore) but I'd let them advise if they choose to respond. Thoughtful of you to try and return it.

Decided to follow up on that hunt. Call this an excuse if you like (maybe I'll even agree) but the high temp for the day was 36F (2C) and there was a slight but noticeable wind. I was dressed warmly except I should have worn wool socks, and my gloves, which are hunting gloves with thinsulate still leave my hands getting cold. (It doesn't help when I take them off to secure a find.) As every detectorists knows, any distraction hurts the chances for those deeper/quieter signals. Search mode w/11" coil settings: Field 1, MultiFreq, 5 tones, wide open (no disc), custom tone breaks, volumes, & pitches, Recovery Speed =4, Iron Bias F2=0, gain=24, Noise Canceled and Ground Balanced as always. Investigation mode (in User Profile memory): Park 2, MF, 50 tones, wide open, RS=6, F2=0, NC&GB. I started detecting in my 'garden spot' (best producer of this site) which I've been over with the ML Eqx 800 at least twice, first time with 11" coil and followup with 6" coil. I concentrated on an area about 6m x 9m (20' x 30') and covered it in ~1.75 hrs. The only coin find was a Wheatie very near a large buried target (old piece of corrugated culver pipe?) and I got a good signal only after facing the large target and backing away -- toe of coil less susceptible to nearby targets. It was no more than 4 inches deep and gave a pretty consistent 21-23 (some Wheaties and Indian Head penny zone) in Field 1. Nearby I decided to dig a 15-16 TID signal that was moderately soft (deep?) which turned out to be a junk/toy child's ring at ~5 inch depth. After covering that area I continued for about 30 minutes in another area of the garden spot. I got an odd signal which left-right (or right-left, don't remember the order) was reading VDI of 18,22. It was next to rocks so I wasn't able to get a good 90 degree angle of attack confirmation but you know the drill: "when in doubt..." Another early Wheatie, and also in the 4 inch depth range. I may well have been over this target previously and decided it was a (not worth digging) Zincoln, but also in Park 1 it might have signaled differently (I didn't check that before recovery...). The last 45 minutes I went to a virgin spot in an area I've recently been working. I got a shallow Jefferson nickel (1956-D) very close to a picnic table in a region with (not surprisingly) oodles of pulltab zone hits. That was my last good target of the day. Somewhere along the line I also dug 2 Zincolns and one copper Memorial cent. I ended up only digging four pulltabs (one complete rivetless and three broken off beavertails) plus 3 nails (one of which was square). Throw in a piece of aluminum wire and a rusty crowncap and that was about it for trash in the 3 hour hunt. I'm just getting my teeth into Field 1 and with the distraction of the cold I was not doing justice listening for the quietest signals, although even under perfect conditions it's going to take me time to figure that out. Park 2 for investigation mode was not very satisfactory (wilder than normal VDI's among other things) so I'm going back to Field 2 for that task on my next hunt. I have a lot more confidence in Field 2 as a verification setting (see initial post of this thread). One last note, even with Threshold set to zero (the minimum) there was still a background hum/buzz, presumably from the proprietary transmitter/receiver system. I need to try plugging the headphones directly into the control module (via 1/4" female to 3.5 mm male) to see if that goes away. More later.

It's quite a bit out of focus but appears to be from a particular VFW post in California. I assume the post number is on there (lower left lettering) but I can't discern it. "Upon further review" it looks to be from this post in El Cajon, CA: http://www.vfwpost2275.org/

Here's a detailed article about the finder (this was linked in the newspaper article Jason linked): https://www.outsideonline.com/2419429/forrest-fenn-treasure-jack-stuef Even better, an account written by the finder (a professional journalist) previously published online anonymously (linked in the outsideonline article): https://thefinder.medium.com/a-remembrance-of-forrest-fenn-1be2a8646ff2 Lawsuits? Now all those irrational people who blame Fenn for the deaths of searchers will have a field day going after the treasure finder.

Hey, what's so funny about that??!! 😠 (just kidding, of course) I've been using the stock Sunray Pro Golds (non-CTX version) headphones without modification. Simon recommended cutting off the end of the cord and attaching a 3.5 mm plug but I've been dragging my heals since then I'll need an adapter to use the Garrett Z-lynk Transmitter/Receiver system for my other detectors. In cold weather it's no annoyance since I just stuff the cord into my jacket/sweatshirt. In summer I use earbuds with 3.5 mm plug standard (and associated lightweight chord). But in spring/fall when it's cool enough for over-ear headphones but still warm enough not to require a jacket, the stock cord length can be a bit distracting. Now that I've defended my quirkiness, I'll agree to at some point try your direct method (preferably after I've converted my Pro Golds to the 3.5 mm plug -- I really have grown to dislike adapters) to see if it provides my hearing with better information than through the WM08 system. Now, though, I'm wondering if a direct connection of the non-CTX version of the Pro Golds will exhibit that wiring incompatibility that cause SunRay to make a special version.... I'm sure I'll find that out quickly. (In a subsequent post Raphis said:) Hmm, why do you run with a threshold when I remember you stating in a previous discussion that you run the Nox in all metal mode?? That’s just another superfluous audio signal you have in the background. What purpose does it provide you? Interesting question (meaning it has me thinking). One is out of habit, both from natural gold detecting (which I don't get to do much of...) and another being from the use of other detectors to make sure the detector is operating in the state I want (not muted/off for some unintended reason). But related is my concern (apparently unneeded or you wouldn't have asked) that quiet signals can hide below the threshold. That's certainly true with some detectors but now that you've brought it up I'm thinking maybe not relevant for the Eqx? (I do recall reading that the Eqx threshold is not the standard type threshold...). Keep banging away at me because I'm here to learn. 👍

Thanks for clearing that up for me, too. "...It's all coming back to me now...." (credit to Jim Steinman) That 4*pi factor really hit a nostalgic nerve (not all good, either 😏). We are probably getting deeper than 99% of detectorists care to concern themselves with, but if you want a good scale then a true logarithmic one with the optimal choice of base will cover your available range (you've mentioned 2 decimal digits, i.e. 0-99). Then it would be easy convert it back to a more fundamental physics meaning with simply a calculator (and maybe an equation of base isn't 10 or e an equation) rather than having to carry around a conversion table. (For those too young to know what a calculator is, think a particular smartphone app.) It would be so nice to have a standard between different manufacturers but I long ago realized that isn't going to happen -- too much overvalued pride & arrogance for that. If it were a standard then someone could just say "I got a magnetic scale reading of xx" and others who care and have done measurements themselves would have a decent idea of what is being reported, regardless of what detector s/he has.

Welcome, Seaduner, both to retirement and this site! Here's a great place to start (but not finish): It sounds like you are interested in multiple kinds of metal detecting so I recommend getting an all-purpose detector. Some of those in the above review are gold specialty only while others are multi-purpose. Steve makes it clear which are which. There are tons of threads here covering almost every detector manufactured & sold in the Western World for the last 20 years plus, so browse and enjoy (oh, and post questions, observations, finds,...).

Welcome, Paul! You found out quickly how helpful/generous some in this hobby/endeavor/profession can be. This site has much in common with that so feel free to contribute with both questions and observations (and pictures/reports of finds). I also belong to the GPAA but living so far from detectable gold I'm particularly hindered by the pandemic so it's still going to be a while before I can get out West and enjoy that segment of detecting. Maybe we'll cross paths then. I'm a retired (67 y) old fart, too. Lots of us here but all age groups are welcomed and represented.

I don't know about cellphone interference (I carry a dumbphone -- that's all I have) but can say without question that the WM08 requires line-of-site conditions. I put mine in my upper jacket or shirt pocket -- right hand side since I swing left handed. If my detector is on the ground and I simply turn away from it (e.g. to walk to the car to get a tool I forgot) the headphones go silent. (I run with a soft but discernable threshold.) But returning (with clear line-of-site) I start picking up the RF signal at around 30 meters and it's clear (no loss what-so-ever) no less than 10 m away. Another issue is good contact of connectors. Dropouts are doubly likely if you have to use a 3.5 mm male to 1/4" female adapter as it adds another weak link into the chain. That makes a lot more sense. I kinda wondered if you were mis-estimating the area covered. Certainly some people go faster than your original estimate. My brain has trouble discerning good from bad hits in my trashy ground and in particular the quiet (typically deep) signals are the ones most likely to get missed in my case. No question that the site plays a roll, and everyone's style is different. That's why good discussions here (especiialy with reasons given for settings and techniques) opens up my mind, and hopefully others', too. Thanks again for answering all my questions and offering up some of your 'tricks'. I never thought that creating this thread would pay back in multiples of what I put into it, but it sure has. I'm headed out this afternoon (after it warms up a bit -- getting rather cool here in the Midwest) and I'll try some of your ideas (especially searching in Field 1 and returning to Recovery Speed = 4).

From the Fisher F75 user manual: I don't know what 'micro-cgs' means. 'cgs' is commonly meant to refer to a particular form of metric system units, where everything can be simplifed to combinations of centermeters (c), grams (g) and seconds (s). The unit of magnetic field strength in cgs units is 'Gauss'. So maybe they mean micro-Gauss (one millionth of a Gauss)? I like the left hand scale myself which (as can be seen in the cut & pasted snippet from the manual) is % magetite equivalent by volume.

Are you talking about the ML80 wireless headphones (supplied with the Eqx 800), some other Bluetooth headphone, or the WM08 combined with wired headphones? (This last is what I've used from very early on, swapping out wired earbudes with wired headphones in summer heat, but still attaching to the WM08 module.) Covering 200'x 200' sounds pretty fast for an afternoon (2-4 hours) for me. I do sometimes go that speed but then wonder if I've gone too quickly. (I know some people really like to motor through a site and would consider that crawling.) My swing length isn't more than 6 ft, particularly in cool weather wearing lots of clothing. I also swing a straight path rather than an arc and overlap 50% (or at least try to). I hunt by myself so no pressure from others, and if I run out of time I know there will be another day. The competition near me is almost nil -- I've only run into one detectorist who I feel knew what he was doing -- also swinging an Eqx 800 and told me prior to getting that he used an E-Trac. And that was one time I saw him in going on 5 years (1000 documented hours in the last 4). But I can tell from my finds frequency that over the years my parks and schools have been detected multiple times. I think those detectorists have moved on. Fortunately for me they weren't as thorough as you so I'm confident there are deep (>6 inches) good targets still in the ground. (My deepest coin is 8 inches and only a handful of those so I haven't been getting the deepest ones, either.) Thanks for sharing your settings and giving the reasons for them. A lot of yours are the same as mine, but a big difference is that I hunt in Park 1 so I need to give your Field 1 a serious try. In particular I'm glad to hear your recovery speed setting. I experimented with Recovery=4 for several hunts this fall but went back to 5 (my previous standard). I really didn't notice a big difference but then I didn't compare as carefully as you have so I'll switch back to 4. It also appears that your sites have similar trash to mine -- lots of pulltabs but also a surprising amount of iron (nails mostly, but also pieces of wire). I think you'd hit the ground running if you decide to take me up on my offer. Just a couple more questions -- hope you don't mind me pestering: do you use the 11" coil exclusively and are you running the latest (version 3.x) software?