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Hello folks, I have exhausted all avenues in getting this part for my Excalibur. The US company will not send to Australia and not even to my US third party address in the USA. I am hoping someone in the US can order the part and forward to me in Australia. The part is an Excalibur endcap with the CTX style fitting. It costs $70 plus shipping should be less than $20. I can send funds up front via PayPal....$100 US should be plenty. I’m just asking if someone can take delivery of the part and send it on to Australia. My shipping address can be sent via PM. Just needs taking to your local post office. I wouldn’t normally ask for this sort of help but I’m in a jam......and Excalibur needs this part urgently. Steve....hopefully this arrangement is okay by you. Let me know if not. Thanks in advance, Tony This is the part https://www.detectorrepair.com/index.php/store/ctx-3030-style-headphone-adapter-for-excalibur

Took the kids to the lake for a couple days to hunt some gold. Equinox flooded in chest deep water after a few hours. This my second! Minelab is sending me another one customer service is great. I have dunked this detector before with no problems...

Fisher Impulse AQ stock, fully extended, 48.5" to elbow bolt, 38.5" from grip to coil Standard Fisher middle rod added, 52" to elbow from coil, 42" from grip to coil As mentioned in this thread detailing the Impulse AQ rod measurements, I find the two piece rod assembly too short for my liking. I added a standard Fisher middle rod section. However, adding the middle section made the AQ longer than I prefer. Actually it is fine, but there is zero ability to make it shorter as I am set comfortable at the shortest extension. There are times I might want it shorter. It also cannot adjust out full length anyway due to the cable not being that long. So I ran it out as far as the cable would go, and determined that cutting 2.5" off the lower rod would give me maximum extension, while also allowing me to shorten the rod up to a perfect position for me. I left the detector assembled and used the middle section rod holes as a guide/template to drill a new hole for the rod detent pin. Then I cut the rod off by 2.5" so the lower rod is now 26" in length, and re-positioned the pin. This allowed me to set the lower rod three holes from the shortest middle rod setting, in theory leaving six more longer adjustments if the cable would go that long. You can see the pin positioning in the middle rod in the photo below. Long story short, at that setting the AQ is exactly the same length as my Equinox at maximum length, with 42" from coil to hand grip, which is where I normally run the Equinox. I can adjust the AQ a couple settings both longer and shorter with no problem. Somebody shorter than I am would want to cut the lower rod down even more. If you wanted it to stow better, cutting it down to more like 20" would allow it to go to the full length adjustment and then also to the shortest setting. I figure I can always cut more off later if need be but I can't put any back so will leave it here for now. Even so, I am committed as without the middle section it really is too short for me now. If any of that is confusing, let me know your specific question, and I will try and make it clearer. That middle rod is not easy to find for something used on so many First Texas (Fisher, Bounty Hunter, Teknetics) detectors. Black, gold, and gray versions are made. I got my spare at Kellyco for $9.99 and I had a $5 off coupon so half off, but with shipping ended up being $12 delivered. https://www.kellycodetectors.com/catalog/middle-rod-only-current-models

It ran fine in the water. It was later I was going thru some setting and it was erratic. Jumping all around. Then I saw water leaking out where it's glued.

OK, my first outing had me ready to get serious. I was quite satisfied with the performance of the Impulse AQ. I found I needed to extend the rod for more reach, and was fortunate enough to have a Fisher middle rod section for a Gold Bug 2 at home, so I added that for more length. Now the shortest setting is almost too long, but for me perfect, and room for more extension. (New rod length thread here) I also decided I needed a way to suspend the AQ by my side while I was digging, so I used a short piece of parachute cord from my wader suspenders to just below the handle tied off just right. So the AQ hangs just below waist height if released. Up at 6am to be at the beach for 8am opening to get in a full day, two fully charged batteries ready to go. Weather looking perfect, sunny and not too warm for wader work. I had decided that the AQ performance was such that I was going to use tones exclusively and my best cherry picking skills to avoid surface wire and small items, and concentrate on ring type signals. I expected nickels, corroded zinc, pull tabs.... and hopefully a ring or two. Jewelry is sparse at Tahoe but it is there, and I felt confident I now had a depth edge that was going to help find them. All geared up, gave all the fittings one last check to make sure they were good.... and noticed the power cable to battery connection seemed to have some excess wiggle. The normal hairline gap in the fitting seemed a bit off. I pulled on the cable gently, and it pulled right out of the connector! The internal plastic sleeve was broken, and when I got home I fished the other half out of the battery connector with fine point tweezers. All I can say is 3.5 hours total use, I've been paranoid treating this fitting with kid gloves, and it has never even been underwater. If I broke it I have no clue how I did it. The plastic is broken off inside in a way that I am having a hard time seeing how it could even occur. Don't know, it is broke, and I'm done. I wish now when I put the pressure on to get a spare battery I had thought to buy a spare power cable also. Rookie mistake. Duh. Oh well, the water looked perfect, and I got a nice two hour drive. And that is that folks until I get another power cord, and hopefully a spare. Not upset about it, stuff happens, and if anything really do blame myself for not getting a spare. I never went anywhere with my Minelab PI detectors without a spare power cord. Why would I think of doing it with this machine? And the price to be paid sometimes for being the first kid on the block with a new toy. I'm glad I caught it before submerging the machine, though the chance of actual damage occurring in freshwater is almost non-existent, which is one reason I'm just fine keeping this detector out of saltwater for now. Would have been better yet if it had revealed itself on the last trip, which was kind of what the shakeout tour was for. Oh well. Lesson learned for all - get a spare power cable!!!! I have no idea what they cost but will find out and pass it on. We need a part number and price so people can buy spares. I expect a replacement under warranty, but I am more than happy to pay for a spare. Would have saved me a bit of gas money if nothing else this morning and...... the water looked so good!

I was out for a beach hunt this morning for about two hours! Hunted mainly the wet sand! On the return trip back down the beach, i switched to the upper dry sand! Nothing i haven't done before! After about ten minutes, i got an Err 41 and the unit shut off! Tried to turn on several times, and the error code would repeat and shut off! Did full reset a few times, but same thing! I still had two bars on the battery, so i didn't think it was a power problem! I thought maybe an overheat problem in the coil or control head! Went back to the surf to cool the coil off! And kept the control head in my shadow as i walked back down the beach to the stairs (about 8 minutes)! Tried turning the unit back on, and presto! It was working again! I detected another 5 or so minutes without any more issues! OK all, any ideas for the issue! And what is Err 41?? I can't find a reference! Thanks!!👍👍

Note from Steve H - I made a comment on my first use of the Fisher Impulse AQ that the rod was a little too short - FOR ME. That has been picked up on to mean I am saying the rod is too short, and well, how could they? I don't think so, same rod as has been used on 1280-x and CZ-20 etc for like 40 years. I am just very particular in rod length and positioning, and 1/4” off will bug me. The stock rod is an inch too short for my liking is all, but I like a long reach and sweep if I so desire it. I am 5' 11" tall. See my post later on down this thread for measurements with photos, and you can decide for yourself. The main thing is the rod is two piece, and that limits the adjustment. The original Manta rod was three piece, but it was metal and prone to corrosion, so they went to the CZ fiberglass rod instead. This is Badgers original post, moved from another thread: I guess they weren't kidding when they said the connectors were fragile. Too bad the stock shaft is so short. I'm six feet tall and it sounds like the LTD would be way too short for me without that middle rod.

The battery will not keep a charge. I sent an email to Nokta tech. to see what they can do. I might just get the waterproof AA battery pack which will run without the rechargeable battery. Now I'm waiting for my Equinox 800 to come back and see what I can do with the Gold Kruzer. I'm down to my XP Orx now which isn't a bad thing :). I'll be water hunting with it or awhile.

I had registered a Nox 800 online before and never had trouble doing so . The Nox 800 I just received is another story. After filling in all needed to register it, it comes back can’t register because problem with serial number. The S/N on the back of control head and on the box plus invoice are all the same. I’ve talk with dealer and also email Minelab. I hope to hear from Minelab today. A friend ask if it had the update that Minelab offered some time back . He said I had to hook it up to my computer to find out. It’s too bad that don’t show up when you turn on the detector on it’s face . Life wouldn’t be interesting if it wasn’t for a few rocks in the road . Chuck

This caught my attention.. didn't know it was as bad as all that.. https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2020/jun/02/theres-a-romanticism-about-nighthawking-but-its-theft-when-metal-detectorists-go-rogue

I have been looking at the site off and on for the past couple of days. Now, all of a sudden I cannot get to it. When I click on it, a security page comes up, the kind where you are supposed to type in 3 or 4 letters/numbers to prove you are not a robot. Only problem is, is there is not a place to type them in. Anyone else having this problem?

Hello all, I was reading Steve's post on "Best detector values under $500 dollars"! And noticed something! I noticed that MineLab is the only manufacturer that listed the operation temperature, and storage temperature of their equipment! Being a Native of South Florida with its oppressive heat, humidity, and salt air, most of the year! I have experienced first hand what happens to electronics, plastics, adhesives, etc... that many of you in certain States, and Country's, have also experienced! Suffice it to say to the uninitiated, that it is a bad idea to leave these items in an enclosed vehicle for an extended period of time!♨️ The last couple of weeks, i have been trying to figure out if coil or detector color, can adversely affect function and longevity, in these types of conditions! (not just inside vehicles)! Proof has been hard to find, without the advantages that the designers, and bench testers, have at their disposal! I know "most" electronics have overload protection built in; from energy spikes , as well as heat! That would be an obvious "failure"! But short of this "failure", will detection depth, or circuit function be appreciably reduced based solely on the surface, and internal temps of the parts themselves? Especially the copper windings of the coil! Are PI detectors more likely to suffer, due to the added power output? And is this a cumulative, or situational effect that goes unnoticed? ( loss of depth with hot coil, or circuit function)! Just wanted to get that out there for any input you all have!! Based on the huge knowledge base on this forum!👍👍

We had a look out today . And for some reason the nox switched it's self off ???????? It would do this intermittently from 1 minute to 5 minutes just went off ??? It was fully charged . Has anyone else had this problem ??? Tried a FR . Still did it ???? Any info appreciated .

Hello all! Just recieved my Simplex today from Kellyco, set it up, charged the machine and I cant get it to turn on. So I let it charge for around an hour. It just flashes the Simplex logo while charging. So I unplugged it, took it outside and hold the power button down for the 3 seconds or longer and nothing. I dont know if I'm doing something wrong or if I need to contact Kellyco. Appreciate any help you may have. Thanks.

Has anyone experienced either of the following with his/her Equinox: 1) unpredictable, spontaneous restart after the unit has been turned on and has been operating for at least several minutes? (I did notice that any change of settings I had made post turn-on and prior to this unexpected restart were not saved), 2) trouble starting up -- unit restarts itself during its startup procedure? (I've seen this do the recycle loop anywhere from just once to maybe 4 or 5 times, but usually it heals itself. Other times I've physically turned it off and back on). I've operated my Eqx 800 well over 500 hours on between 150 and 200 hunts. Prior to yesterday I'd seen each of these about half dozen times or less. Yesterday in my back yard, doing some air testing with the Eqx stationary, #1 happened between 5 and 10 times in about a 20 minute period.

Unboxed it, assembled it and went to power it up...and nothing. Hooked it up to the charger and the charging light stays solid and doesn't blink. Able to power it up while on charge and the battery indicator reads full...but as soon as I unplug the charger, it dies. Need some help please.

Hey all, I just found my coil connection sheared off at the control housing. (oops, and bad timing as I was just headed out!) Luckily no damage to the control housing connection but the other end was bent and broken right off... I sent some photos to minelab to asses if they will fix it or not but still waiting. I was wondering if anyone knows if its possible to buy this connector anywhere? If minelab wont fix it then I will end up splicing one on myself and hope for the best (minus the water tightness of course) . Any help would be so appreciated!

MY UNIT IS FRIED! Evidently the Equinox can not even be rinsed off in the shower after use. What a piece of JUNK. Two months to go in Mexico and I have a boat anchor. 😡 Minelab engineers should all be fired. Dave

Hi all, New to the Forum and have a problem I hope someone can help me with. Well I think the ATX (used) I recently got is down for the count After the initial park test where the machine worked as advertised I took it to the lake for a water hunt. It was running real quiet and smooth at the first two beaches. Scored a silver ring and St Christopher medal on a chain Good frequency scan and GB. At the third beach I got a low batt indicator and did a battery change back at the truck. Upon returning to the water the machine was acting real erratic with lots of false signals and LED indicators flashing up to the 7/8 range and even locking at this level. I thought well maybe its EMI or drift so I checked with my buddy who is running an infinium and he said his machine was purring like a kitten. So I did another factory reset and decide to run in ground tracking. I was still getting signals but hard to hear the faint ones with all the falsing. I checked the battery compartment when I got home and no leaks. Batteries were in proper polarization and no reversed cells. So I decided to take it to the park today where I originally tested it with a fresh set of batteries. Did Freq Scan and GB. The GB seemed a little off from when I first got the machine. That is when I press the button and get the two tones I'm not hearing much ground signal. I noticed this at the lake also. Anyway tried to run and with the coil stationary I'm getting a pulsing signal from 1-4 LED range and spiking up to 7/8 range. The signal then locked at 8 and wouldn't go away without a reset but then continued the pulsing. So I decided to do a factory reset and that's when it got interesting. Usually on a factory reset I get two tones followed by the 4 battery check tones. The machine went straight to 4 tones with no LED display. So the machine is on and making spurious noises but no LED's are on. Did this a few times with the same results. So I put the machine away and got my GP3000 out as a control test. The 3000 noise canceled and GB'd in this park fine and I dug a few signals till the rain started. Anyway this kind of rules out that there was some type of crazy EMI that can't be eliminated. Next I called the local dealer who sold the machine to the guy I bought it from and he thought it might be the coil. back at the house I slid the shaft out a bit and had a look at the coil wire connector. Put in a new set of batts and checked the coil connector for leaks saw none but where the wire goes into the black connector there is some type of rubbery gasket material that is squeezed out a bit. Any way I fired up the machine and it went through a normal cycle with LED's and did the frequency scan but still getting that spiking signal. I can turn sens down and bring that signal down but then cant hear test targets through the signal at the low sens level. Dealer told me to call Garrett on Monday and that is the plan. I think there is still 6 months on the Warranty but well see. Anyone have similar problems? I have this message posted on the ATX forum and a member there suggested testing my machine with a known good coil. Anyone in the Reno area with an ATX and a good coil that I could use as a test on my machine? I know that's a lot to ask but and maybe not even a good idea. Maybe Steve will know?

Today I went to the beach to take advantage of the super tides. I got there and as luck would have it there was no one on the beach in my spots! I turned on the detector as I normally do by pressing in the on/off switch on the left side of the control housing. It turned on properly but I can remember I felt a 'give' that I hadn't noticed before. It was working so I just went about my detecting looking for targets. There were not that many either high or low today. When I went to take a break I got past the dry sand and tried to turn off the detector as I had turned it on. I pressed the button and all I felt was it 'give' without stopping. I tried repeatedly but no luck. I turned off the headphones and that didn't help, it just made it so everyone could hear. Now I know I've got a problem but what do I do? I unscrewed the connector to the coil and a message came on the screen that I think said 'Cd' and then the power went off. Now the power will not go back on. It was just before 5 PM in Chicago but I've left a message for Minelab. It will probably be Monday before I hear from them now. It looks like the 3030 will get some use or the SE Pro if I use a detector in the next couple of weeks. Anyone had a bad switch yet? Mitchel

Saw this posted elsewhere by EQX 600 owner. https://www.findmall.com/threads/equinox-600-leak.347035/

Hi all, I'm from France, working with a GPX4500 of 2003. Yesterday when I started this old guy, I was affraid by this problem : - Sound when the treshold start is strange. - The autotune (research for free frequency) is a stable sound, with no variation. - And no power ! about 5 inch max for my metal digging pickaxe. I tried some factory resets, but the problem is always the same... I tried this one with another disc, trakking button, cable, headphone, battery, the problem come from the main box... Anyone knows this problem ? Thank you and have a nice day. Luis

Guys, I wonder, does anyone know or have a diagram of the coil connector pinout? Many thanks! Apologies, didn't mean to start new topic, but it was moved separate. It may come handy for others perhaps. I'm going to tap into those wires to find out what they are once I have an inline connector made.

Was in a field that was an orchard way back, had the Tejon cranked on sensitivity so it would just stop chattering. Going along and not even a peep for a while. Hit the all metal and nothing! Turned it off then on again and no signal! Figured I forgot to charge the lithium batteries as I usually do and of course I took the spares out of my pouch. Went home charged the batteries and they recharged really quick (usually take 2 hours from fully drained). Tossed them in, powered the machine up and Nothing!!! My heart sank. Checked to see if the headphones were ok and it turned out to be the inline audio volume switch was off. My guess is the switch would rub against my jacket and work its way off as I swung. All working good, taped the switch so it doesn't move 🙂

Anyone in North America able to work on an Aquasearch? Kind of blares after coming off a target. I've gotten different opinions on the problem--all above my electronics hat size (a "2"). cjc