I promised myself to go out and test the changes I made on the Tdi Beachhunter ...
In the end, all works properly and I'm a bit proud of what I've done thanks to some help I received here on the forum...
Last night, however, I got my hands on the scuba harness and made one of the most serious miscalculations ... Removing a lot of weight to be free to reach the beach without paying the price of pain after the fatigue ... I had in mind some splendid video on sidemount setup, which intrigued me to try in terms of set-up ...
The result was crap to say the least ...Sh...happens...
Not only did I gain 22kg during quarantine, even though I didn't seem so fat, actually the buoyancy got a lot worse and even with the 32kg weight including the 15lt steel tank, they weren't enough to keep me on the bottom.
So today, I massively messed up one of the most promising dive sessions to hunt...
In conclusion, the Detech coil does its job, but my transformation is definitely an act of stubbornness and I do not recommend repeating the work to anyone.
Although in any other environment, this coil would be adorable, underwater it manifests all its terrestrial nature ...
I recommend watching the video to people who are not faint of heart or stomach, without minors around.
Bad language censored and copyright defective.
Cheers all of You!
Hi, there. I was using my TDI BH for almost two years now. It worked great till the las week then I noticed an important sensitivity drop.
In other words, the detector switches on and work as usual, but no matter what I do, I am getting less depth on my targets.
Just to give you some numbers. My test target is a nickel coin which I was detecting from 27 cm a least (10us, gain full, gb off). Now, under the same conditions I can detect the same coin at 10-12 cm only.
It is not the matter of the battery, as I have tested it with different batteries I have laying around.
The TDI have a couple if weeks warranty left, but I have some doubts about my dealer's possibilities. On top of that the type of the fail is rare. Looks like the detector work as it should if not the lower detecting depth. For the person who is not familiar with TDI BH, this type of defect could be not so obvious.
Any ideas what could be the reason?
I hope this topic hasn't already been covered and I'm not writing it in the wrong place.
Recently, based on my lack of knowledge in this sector, I have however noticed large differences in actual life, not only because of battery chemistry ...
I mean something about the use of power itself in using the tool.
Thinking of a mobile phone, the standby time is merely relative to the battery capacity, as is the duration in call or video call, much less long ...
So every time a detector is used in an area where there are several signals and we are busy digging or at least hearing many of them, the battery duration is more affected and reduced...
This for me, as an inexperienced, means not being able to have a clear measure of the actual duration of the battery pack ... You can never know regardless of how many signals will pass below the coil ...
So I then discovered the natural drop in voltage, added to that of absorption in the most arduous use ...
And what about threshold instability and false signals if, for example, a pulse is not properly regulated and a too low delay makes it continuously sound for nothing by activating the retuning?
At this point I have the impression that even with higher capacities, the voltage drop is the most difficult factor to defeat, even before the capacity ....
I am facing the insertion of bms modules in these days and in the future I could add step up or step down modules if necessary, but first I would like to understand to what extent it is possible to delay the cut off, if not eliminating some form of protection that these boards cut away leaving a lot of useful voltage.
Unprotected batteries can have a bad end if it is lithium, so there is a compromise between safety and durability ...
I repeat again ... I am not an expert and anyone who can add his knowledge on the subject, do it without brakes because I am well open to constructive technical comments, or even comic and bad ...
By Steve Herschbach
Click or double click any photos in this article for high resolution versions.
I bought this 4 x 26650 battery holder on eBay after quite a bit of Google work. They are a surprisingly rare item. It comes with sleeves that can use 4 x 18650 batteries also. It ran me $29.65 delivered including shipping and tax. I ordered it on June 25th and it arrived from China on July 14th. The holder delivers 16.8V via a DC adapter plug or 5V via a USB outlet. It has a thin oring on the lid for an IP67 seal.
I also ordered an IP67 M8 4 pole 16.4 foot female to pigtail cable from Automation Direct for $10.50 plus shipping and tax. I ordered several different cables so lets add $5.00 for s&h for this one cable. They delivered next day!
And finally 4ea EBL 26650 batteries from Walmart for $20.99 free shipping, delivered in a few days.
Total parts cost about $70. I have a 26650 charger already that came with my Tarsacci so you'd have to figure that. Some sets of the batteries come with a charger. By the way, the EBL seem in short supply lately.
I shortened the power cable to 5 feet, more than enough to set the detector on ground if need be. The DC adapter that comes with this battery box is great. Blue wire to negative post and brown wire to positive. Warning - I am not vouching for the polarity. I used a multimeter to check my AQ battery and matched that. You should do the same. I take no responsibility for anyone doing this mod and blowing their AQ! The black and white are headphone wires. I hooked up a 1/4" female jack to those.
I am using the AQ mostly as a wader unit employing some true chest high waders that have a big pocket on the inside front. I'll drop this battery in that pocket and plug my Sun Ray Pro Gold headphones in. I could use my TaoTronics to go wireless, but that seems pointless the way the battery is mounted near my head. I need to determine run time with four 26650 batteries - should be way better than the current 3 (all metal) to 3.5 (tones/mute) hours running time I get with the Fisher battery. Enough that I probably will not need to do a battery change at all and perhaps enough for a long day. I also need to determine how the detector handles without a battery under the elbow. Lighter of course, but too nose heavy? Should be fine in the water as the coil is neutral. Maybe too nose heavy for some people for dry beach use. We will see. This would be a great belt hip mount battery for dry beach use. I suppose it could also be mounted under the elbow, perhaps with the included strap, so I'll consider that also. It would balance well like that. It is IP67 rated and with proper headphone / power cables might be good enough to use under arm for wading / shallow dunking use at least.
Operating sequence. Power up battery pack (it has its own power switch) then power up detector. Power off detector, power off battery pack. Doing otherwise may trip the circuit protector on the battery pack, necessitating removing and reinstalling the lid to reset. The pack has its own built in battery level indicator. And it may be used to charge a phone or other USB device! I was warned this USB capability might create interference in the AQ, but that has not proved to be an issue so far. The two circuits, 16.8V and 5V, appear to be isolated.
Powered up - and no smoke!
I really like this. Very easy for a not super skilled person like me to do, less than third the cost of a spare AQ battery, and should get well over twice the run time. If I had another complete set of batteries ready, it would be an easy swap for even more running time. It leaves only one cable to the rear end of the detector, and that is my only concern at all - I will try and beef that up and protect it better. I'm thinking a rubber boot that clamps completely over the end of the detector rod. I ordered a couple like like the one pictured below to see if it will stretch enough to work. Long story short is there is a very good chance this will replace my Fisher batteries for most of my use. This is why I had no problem getting the Limited "wader version" of the AQ as I find chest waders to be a good option at Tahoe and it's cold water for all but a couple months of the season when the water gets reasonably warm for mask and snorkel work. I used to do a lot of ice diving with drysuits while gold dredging, but am not looking to get quite that serious any more.
Joe’s Fully Waterproof 26650 Alternative
100% brand new and high quality.
Without 18650 battery. You need to prepare 4x 18650 or 26650 batteries yourself to use.
DC 5.5x2.1mm interface has input and output functions, with DC adapter, easy to use.
DC 5.5x2.1mm port for 16.8V devices
USB 5V Port for Charging Smart phone GPS Tablet PC or 5V LED Light and more.
Improve replacement battery pack fixes inconvenient shortcomings, greatly facilitates the users of the battery pack DIY requirements, without spot welding battery, thereby greatly reducing the battery internal resistance, improve the battery discharge performance, so as to effectively improve battery life
Power supply: you can use 18650 rechargeable lithium battery as a power source
The output side: USB and DC dual output power supply function,DC output voltage is 16.8V(can power the 16.8V device, such as the bike light), USB output voltage is 5V(can power the cellphone and other 5V device), to meet a wider usage scenarios, the product comes with overcharge and over discharge protection, protection of the battery is more safe and sustainable
Color: Black or Red
Input Voltage:DC 16.8V
Output Voltage: DC Port 16.8V
Standby current Under 80μA
USB Output Voltage: DC 5V
USB Output Current: 2000mA
Overcharge Protection Voltage: 16.8V
Over Dischage Protection Voltage: 10V
Over Current Protection Voltage: 7.2A
Size: 9x6.5 x 6.5cm
Cable length: 29cm
18650 and 26650 Batteries are not Included
Please put in battery in a right way.
Charge it when power indicator light flashes.
Don't use the device in the water. Waterproof standard is IP67
1x Waterproof 4x 18650 /26650 battery box case.(without battery )
1x 5.5x2.1mm adapter
4x 18650 to 26650 battery converter
A friend traded me an old Tdi Sl for my old Canon DSLR with a couple lenses. The camera was old but still worked well and perhaps worth a couple hundred at most, so I threw in a telephoto lens and we had a deal. I got a dead or dying Tdi Sl in exchange. The machine would power on etc everything seems to work except it will not ground balance and sensitivity was way down to almost nothing. Ok so not dead but way out of sorts at least. The previous owner has moved on after having done something to the machine. Yes he had opened it up and poked about and tried to make adjustments or something to it. He has lots of history when it comes to pulling things appart followed by difficulty in putting them back together. Let's say this is not his first Humpty Dumpty moment, rather one of many.. Looking at the PCB there is nothing to adjust? I'll take a closer look later now that the PCB is out. At worst I figured I would get some parts etc.
Anyways, later I managed to obtain an SPP PCB and swapped them out. Plugged everything back as I would the TDI SL PCB. Sensitivity is back to normal, seems to work well. Pulse Delay as well as HI LOW ALL do not appear to work like they would on a Tdi SL , even though they are plugged into the board. It does appear to work as a Sierra Pulse Pro should. The SPP board is the latest with all the mods already done at the factory. The old White's rep in Australia has a few SPP boards left for about $70 US each. So I have an SPP for a while, until I can figure out how to repair the Tdi Sl PCB. I'll wait and see what happens. I've got a battery project on the boil and lots of real work to keep me busy. Locked down till mid August so I'll get busy playing with my projects during my spare time.
I'll compare it to my Tdi Sl LE and see if performance differs, should be the same. In the image the left PCB is SPP. right PCB is from sick Tdi Sl. I think it was a good deal and the end result satisfactory for now. Even better if I can fix the original board..
All the best.