Seeing how Whites is out of business now , I decided I should get a replacement shell for my trx before they are unavailable and I wear mine out like my old Garrett pro pointer. I ordered from Serious Detecting LLC . $34.93 with free shipping. Not trying to advertise for them, I have just made purchases from them before so thought I'd get it there. Also seen some available from others on E-bay. Sure hated to see White's close their doors.
I am in a pickle, I wanted a new TRX but now White's is gonners and international shipping is terribly unreliable due to the virus I need to buy local.
My preference was a pin pointer that would be better than the Garrett Pro Pointer AT on small gold, the TRX seemed the best for this purpose although I own a TRX already and was disappointed as I felt my Carrot AT was just as good as it on small gold so I've questioned it's authenticity seeing I bought it off Ebay. I still don't know if it's fake, it doesn't look fake, but that does not mean much these days.
Anyway, my options are a Nokta Pulse Dive which I know will suck for small gold being designed as a beach pin pointer and the Fisher F-Pulse.
Now seeing I'm not going to get my wish for a more sensitive to small gold pin pointer than my Carrot AT, which pin pointer is going to be best for coins, especially when it comes to depth in MILD soils.
Both are PI, and both are available at my local dealer.
I want to hear from owners of both which they think is best for coins. I will eventually use it as a beach pin pointer too as I am going to take up beach detecting sometime over winter while the beaches are empty.
I like the Pulse Dive has a coil option as I'd probably use that beach detecting while swimming in OZ on my next trip but it's not important, depth is the most important attribute I guess seeing small gold sensitivity isn't going to be a factor, unless either is better than the Carrot At.
Also does the F-Pulse save settings as in all honestly, after reading the manual it's an absolute butt hole at changing settings, 9 presses of a button to get the setting I would want. If I had to do this every time I turn it on I'd throw it in the bin. Reading the comments here didn't really excite me and sounds like the TRX is better, didn't give me a lot of confidence, sounded like a VLF would be better but harder to make..... took the easy way out?...... https://md-hunter.com/fisher-f-pulse-review-in-practice-opinions/
Although those who know me well will know I appreciate this was written in the manual..... I appreciate honesty, especially when it comes to this sort of thing
That was an image from the manual here http://www.fisherlab.com/hobby/manuals/MPPFXP-FPulse.pdf
Thanks for any help.
I was lucky enough to test one of the first sample 8” coil units For the Pulse Dive and what I found was very pleasing!
From the beginning I was hoping that Nokta|Makro would make a larger coil for the PulseDive so I was very excited when I heard from Dilek that they were doing exactly that! I was given an 8” coil to test and although I admit that it was essentially a finished product already!
My first concern was that the larger coil would be too easy to twist off accidentally due to being larger and having more leverage but upon receiving I found they had already thought of this and actually provide the coil with a harder gasket/o-ring so the friction is high making it harder to twist off and very unlikely to come off underwater! 😃
My next concern was that the coil would be overly sensitive causing it to false excessively in mineralised areas or just from salt water but once again my concerns had already been addressed and the machine was stable in salt water however it is important to note that the machine must be turned on or retuned in the salt water because turning it on in air and entering salt water can cause it to false but of course this is a non-issue just important to note for new players.
The depth on this coil in air tests is consistently in the range of 30% more than the standard coil and from the hours I’ve put on it I’d have to say this is reflected underwater also. The coverage is also greater so at a guess I’d have to say the 8” coil scans double the volume of sand in a single sweep than the smaller coil does 👌
Pinpointing on the larger coil is more difficult and I would recommend for low/no visibility conditions using the smaller coil for the speed of recovery however with enough practice and the right techniques it is certainly possibly to hone in your pinpointing skills with this coil. One trick I’ve learnt and seen used with other detectors is to turn the coil on its edge once the target is close to narrow down your search even further and it’s definitely applicable to the 8” coil.
I’ve had some questions about battery life with the larger coil and I haven’t noticed a difference so I’m not sure if there really is a difference in current draw from this coil or not but I can still get 8 hours from it which Is enough for one day! 😂
Overall the coil is more effected by mineralisation and EMI which is standard for larger coils and pinpointing is a bit more difficult HOWEVER the depth and coverage in underwater scenarios is comparable to other water detectors costing literally 10X what the PulseDive costs.
I have now switched to using this detector/coil combo almost exclusively over my other water detectors (whites Dualfield and Garrett Seahunter mk2) mainly for convenience, low/no maintenance, no cables or knobs to fail and no need to wear headphones however I will still use these machines where there are a lot of hot rocks so I can remove them or reduce their signal by adding pulse delay 👌
*photo of gold (and palladium) found so far with the big coil*
By Steve Herschbach
Fisher Impulse AQ stock, fully extended, 48.5" to elbow bolt, 38.5" from grip to coil
Standard Fisher middle rod added, 52" to elbow from coil, 42" from grip to coil
As mentioned in this thread detailing the Impulse AQ rod measurements, I find the two piece rod assembly too short for my liking. I added a standard Fisher middle rod section. However, adding the middle section made the AQ longer than I prefer. Actually it is fine, but there is zero ability to make it shorter as I am set comfortable at the shortest extension. There are times I might want it shorter. It also cannot adjust out full length anyway due to the cable not being that long. So I ran it out as far as the cable would go, and determined that cutting 2.5" off the lower rod would give me maximum extension, while also allowing me to shorten the rod up to a perfect position for me.
I left the detector assembled and used the middle section rod holes as a guide/template to drill a new hole for the rod detent pin. Then I cut the rod off by 2.5" so the lower rod is now 26" in length, and re-positioned the pin. This allowed me to set the lower rod three holes from the shortest middle rod setting, in theory leaving six more longer adjustments if the cable would go that long. You can see the pin positioning in the middle rod in the photo below.
Long story short, at that setting the AQ is exactly the same length as my Equinox at maximum length, with 42" from coil to hand grip, which is where I normally run the Equinox. I can adjust the AQ a couple settings both longer and shorter with no problem.
Somebody shorter than I am would want to cut the lower rod down even more. If you wanted it to stow better, cutting it down to more like 20" would allow it to go to the full length adjustment and then also to the shortest setting. I figure I can always cut more off later if need be but I can't put any back so will leave it here for now. Even so, I am committed as without the middle section it really is too short for me now.
If any of that is confusing, let me know your specific question, and I will try and make it clearer.
That middle rod is not easy to find for something used on so many First Texas (Fisher, Bounty Hunter, Teknetics) detectors. Black, gold, and gray versions are made.
I got my spare at Kellyco for $9.99 and I had a $5 off coupon so half off, but with shipping ended up being $12 delivered.
By Steve Herschbach
OK, my first outing had me ready to get serious. I was quite satisfied with the performance of the Impulse AQ. I found I needed to extend the rod for more reach, and was fortunate enough to have a Fisher middle rod section for a Gold Bug 2 at home, so I added that for more length. Now the shortest setting is almost too long, but for me perfect, and room for more extension. (New rod length thread here) I also decided I needed a way to suspend the AQ by my side while I was digging, so I used a short piece of parachute cord from my wader suspenders to just below the handle tied off just right. So the AQ hangs just below waist height if released.
Up at 6am to be at the beach for 8am opening to get in a full day, two fully charged batteries ready to go. Weather looking perfect, sunny and not too warm for wader work. I had decided that the AQ performance was such that I was going to use tones exclusively and my best cherry picking skills to avoid surface wire and small items, and concentrate on ring type signals. I expected nickels, corroded zinc, pull tabs.... and hopefully a ring or two. Jewelry is sparse at Tahoe but it is there, and I felt confident I now had a depth edge that was going to help find them.
All geared up, gave all the fittings one last check to make sure they were good.... and noticed the power cable to battery connection seemed to have some excess wiggle. The normal hairline gap in the fitting seemed a bit off. I pulled on the cable gently, and it pulled right out of the connector! The internal plastic sleeve was broken, and when I got home I fished the other half out of the battery connector with fine point tweezers.
All I can say is 3.5 hours total use, I've been paranoid treating this fitting with kid gloves, and it has never even been underwater. If I broke it I have no clue how I did it. The plastic is broken off inside in a way that I am having a hard time seeing how it could even occur. Don't know, it is broke, and I'm done. I wish now when I put the pressure on to get a spare battery I had thought to buy a spare power cable also. Rookie mistake. Duh.
Oh well, the water looked perfect, and I got a nice two hour drive. And that is that folks until I get another power cord, and hopefully a spare. Not upset about it, stuff happens, and if anything really do blame myself for not getting a spare. I never went anywhere with my Minelab PI detectors without a spare power cord. Why would I think of doing it with this machine? And the price to be paid sometimes for being the first kid on the block with a new toy. I'm glad I caught it before submerging the machine, though the chance of actual damage occurring in freshwater is almost non-existent, which is one reason I'm just fine keeping this detector out of saltwater for now. Would have been better yet if it had revealed itself on the last trip, which was kind of what the shakeout tour was for. Oh well.
Lesson learned for all - get a spare power cable!!!! I have no idea what they cost but will find out and pass it on. We need a part number and price so people can buy spares. I expect a replacement under warranty, but I am more than happy to pay for a spare. Would have saved me a bit of gas money if nothing else this morning and...... the water looked so good!