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Mike Hillis

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Everything posted by Mike Hillis

  1. I do that on my Impact in my 20 kHz Deep mode. Deep mode is a two tone VCO mode. I notch out high conductors and assign them the N tone iron tone, then change the N tone pitch to 700HZ. I disc the iron range I really want to disc out. That gives me a low tone below the tone break, a VCO tone above the tone break and a 700 HZ solid high tone for high conductors. I like it. I think it works better for high conductors than down in the mid range. Mike
  2. I would like to know the significance of 11 TID? Is that a nickel Id? I notch all the time to help focus but never just one number, and never just for a nickel. A nickel is just a conductivity break point, what I consider the very high side for small gold rings and the very low side for large gold rings. I guess for Nox users maybe the 11 TID bucket is large enough to actually be a spread of numbers if compared to something with better TID resolution though. I dunno. TID resolution is one of the reasons I never bought one. HH Mike
  3. Does the Anfibio/Kruzer have the same blended audio at the tone break points like the Impact? That is one thing I like about the Impact that I'm just starting to enjoy, especially down at the ferrous/non ferrous break point. The phase shift target id may show the peak signal TID but the audio blends what isn't displayed, so I get low tone mid tone audio blending. It lets me know when most of a signal's responses are below the tone break point. I'm trying to develop that more for chain hunting as I get time. Figure out what tone frequencies give me the best blending, do I want to move two tone break points close together and see if I can get a blended audio bracket, stuff like that. HH Mike
  4. Hi Nik11, I am partial to the IMPACT Pro. mostly because 1) I don't need waterproof, and 2) I like having all 12 of the programs and 3) the price of the IMPACT Pro is so good. I found it hard not to buy one. I think there are only two features on the Anfibio that the Impact doesn't have....tone volume and notch volume, which can be useful in some situations but are not deal killers. Well....EUD, too, but my experience with EUD on my Gold Kruzer is that its not something you'd use very often. It really comes down to waterproofing. If you need waterproof, then the Anfibio would be the one. If you are going to primarily be a land hunter, then the Impact would be a great purchase, plus you'd have some money left over to buy some accessories and really kit yourself out. If you are in the states I can refer you to my dealer friend who can give you a great price on either one, Craig at ShowMeTreasure.com I buy all of my Nokta/Makro stuff from him now. Good luck! HH MIke
  5. That was an interesting test. I like it. Is there a reason you don't have anything deeper in your test bed? You didn't say if you had Boost On or Off? Your conclusion was "the order of depth does reflect coil size". Actually the statement your test has shown is that the "order of air gap reflects coil size". I just caution that 'Air gap' is air gap and 'in ground' depth is in ground depth. The two different attributes don't actually reflect a total when added together. HH Mike
  6. What I liked about the book is the emphasis on signal clarity over signal loudness. Really opened my eyes early on to gain/sensitivity control, even more so when I witnessed just how bad my ground would mask small signals as I raised the gain. I could test my ground with a normal Daisy BB and actually hear it break up and disappear as I raised my gain. Real eye opening stuff. Good book to re-read every so often, especially if you have or hunt hot ground. HH Mike
  7. It really boils down to size. The larger chains and bracelets can be picked up by most any detector if you lower the disc far enough. Its the smaller, finer chains that need a high frequency. Most of the finer chains are found because you hit on the pendant, not the chain. When I'm hunting fine chains I'm really hunting for the clasps of the chain, not the actual chain links, while hoping there is still a pendant attached. Earrings - loop earrings are usually open ended which make poor eddy current circuits and need a higher frequency to get a good hit on. Earrings - stud earrings are much the same way, and highly orientation specific to how good a signal they'll give and higher frequency is a big help on them too. The F75 LTD in Boost mode is good enough for most jewelry that doesn't require dropping the disc below a small nail setting or bobbie pin. If the gold size requires a lower disc then its Gold Bug II/Gold Racer/Gold Kruzer time. Setting the disc way down into the iron range is super important as the gold size gets smaller. When the iron disc range gets too low, then you have to up the frequency. HH Mike
  8. My first electronic pinpointer was a Little Wizard II that is normally used to scan lumber for nails. Used it for at least a couple of years before I updated. Worked fine for shallow targets, in the plug targets and in the sidewall of the hole targets. About 2" on a dime....more on a nickle. You can scan with the flat head for broad locating then turn up on its edge for fine pointing. I think they run about 25 bucks. HH Mike
  9. Your detector basically turns long iron into a bar magnet. Wire, hairpins, nails... But you are also adding the loop affect on the bent end of the hair pin which also raises its phase shift. So it sounds like a good non-ferrous target. The pinpoint is what gives it away. A 90 degree pinpoint should have given it away. HH Mike
  10. I hope its extremely good at de-mining the current crop of land mines. HH Mike
  11. Hi Rick, I followed the progression of the AU Gold Finder to the Gold Racer to the Gold Kruzer. I specifically picked the Gold Kruzer for the 3 tone Micro mode. Every time I use a two tone mode I always wish it had a third tone for high conductors so I could ignore those responses. Its terrific to finally get a 3 tone high frequency model with tone break but it really sucks that for some reason the coil makers have decided its a piece of junk they won't waste time on. It makes me not want to buy any of their coils for my other machines. HH Mike
  12. What is wrong with the Gold Kruzer? Why doesn't NEL or CORS or Magic or Detech make any coils for the Gold Kruzer? They make full lineups of coils of for the Gold Racer, but not a one for the Gold Kruzer. You can't say its because of the water proof connector, as they make coils for the Kruzer and Anfibio. You can't say its because of the frequency as they make coils for the Gold Racer and the Gold Kruzer is basically a waterproof Gold Racer. So what gives? Why do the aftermarket coil mfg's treat the Gold Kruzer like an ugly step-child? Mike
  13. Hi GB.,,,yeah...its the stock coil from the F44. It runs good on the 8500 in the right dirt. I occasionally run it on my F75 too when I don't need modulated audio. HH Mike
  14. Hi Monte, We have been having beautiful days here lately in NM. Just Work and the COVID keeping me indoors. I mostly use the concentric (4", 8" and 11" Triangulated) with the 8500 and the 11" Bi-axial and a little 5x10 DD coil on the EuroTek Pro. I just like the concentric better on the 8500 and I like the DD coil better on the ET Pro. But all that said, I've got my 8500 configured for large men's gold rings now and will run that configuration with a 10x14" DD coil for ground coverage in some parts and sports fields I've identified as likely to give up some large gold. May alternate between the 10x14 DD and the 11" Triangulated coil, depending on the dirt. Just need a green light to go. HH Mike
  15. I haven't been able to get out very much due to work and this COVID thing, but the few times I was able to get out were productive. I hadn't used my EuroTek Pro in a long while so I broke it out and found this nice little 10K gold bracelet in school playground a few weeks back. While getting re-acquainted with my new Tek Omega 8500 I found a couple of silver rings. Been going nuts so while I was bench testing last night I decided to throw up a picture. Maybe it will encourage some one to get out and find something. HH Mike
  16. The AKA Berkut 5 has both Large signal and Small signal filters. Someday I'll get my hands on one. I think it would make a great gold jewelry detector. If your ears and mind can deal with it, All metal VCO audio can be useful for what you are wanting to do. Shallow signals squeal, deeper signals don't and the sensitivity settings controls the depth of the squeal. So you can set your squeal depth to say.....7" or so for a coin size target, then when you hear targets that don't squeal, you know that if they are coin size, they are deeper than 7". Since most detectors today include visual target id for the all metal mode, you only have to look at the meter for the non-squealers. Works very good in mixed mode as you can both size, estimate depth and conductivity of the target without having to check a meter. Good luck. HH Mike
  17. Metal detector manufactures do not make and sell metal detectors, they make and sell dreams. Treasure hunting is all about dreams. People will always dream, if not for themselves then for a child or a parent or a friend, or a spouse. Metal detectors support the dream. From the cheapest model to the most expensive model there will always be dreamers willing to buy it. I'd say their future is bright. HH Mike
  18. deleted. HH Mike Nevermind that was the SGT (Sierra Gold Track) I was thinking about.. I never had the GMZ.
  19. The Tek-Pulse/F-pulse is 15ns. Too low of a pulse delay for tiny gold. When the Tek Pulse/FPulse was first released, 1st Texas left me with the impression that they would consider work on a gold prospecting model with a better pulse delay for tiny gold. I don't know if it became a real project and if so, what stage it might be in. Ground balancing vlf probes like the TRX work pretty good for the most part and its simple to cancel the ground or a hot rock. I can balance to loud ground, then re-balance to a rock if I need to (and have) if there are a lot of them. I sing the praises of the TRX a lot as its a perfect pinpointer for gold hunting. HH Mike
  20. They probably have trouble with their multi-freq coil nulls and instead of putting any more effort into them decided to follow the old Minelab Xterra money pit model. But if you need 100 levels of iron volume adjustment this is the detector for you. HH Mike
  21. Hi Kac....I agree, only I let the dirt polish mine with use. I didn't mention a key down side of probing jewelry....I have knocked stones out of several rings by probing and never recovered the stone. Some were not recovered because I didn't react to the missing stone until later and it was too late. Other times it was because I couldn't find it when I looked for it. When I find a ring I tend to just give it a quick glance and put it away. No one else but me needs to know that I found a ring and its not until I get home to spend time with my new 'precious' that I discover I have a missing stone. That is always a uuggg moment. So I try to make sure in that quick glance that I notice if it has a missing stone and if that missing stone was big enough to spend time looking for it. Ideally if you think you knocked the stone out, you'd dig out the dirt and take it home to sift, but in reality....you can't go off and leave a hole open in the ground. Anyway....something to be prepared for because you WILL do it and you'll always wonder if you knocked a big diamond out of that ring and left it in the ground. HH Mike
  22. Brass is too soft. It wears away to fast at the tip and bends too easily. If you have to use a brass probe you might as well plug everything. A good probe can tell a person a lot about a target. My favorite probe is an 1/8" by 10" screw driver. The 1/8" diameter really transmits vibration to the hand. The only real drawback is that it bends easier than a 1/4 diameter screwdriver. Over time I found a 3/16" diameter that seems to offer a a little more bend resistance while keeping good vibration transmission, but I still like the 1/8" diameter best. You should be able to tell you hit a rock verse a coin If you are hunting gold jewelry A good sensitive probe can tell you if the target is a wad of foil, a foil drink lid, a pull tab, or a coin or ring. Foil and drink lid can be identified by how much resistance is required to push through. After a while you get to where you can probe, id it and leave it in the ground and move on. Same thing with pull tabs. The holes in pull tabs are sharp edged and want to cling and grate on the probe, where as jewelry is polished and smooth and doesn't grate when the probe slides against it. Using a screwdriver in the dirt wears it down real fast. You can start with something blunt and end up with something sharp much sooner than you would think. Like transforming a flat head into a phillips in the course of a hunt or two. Regards scratching targets....New probes that haven't got enough wear on them scratch targets the easiest. And I have scratched a few targets, both coins and rings, though the the coins are the ones that hurt the most as its real easy to push a deep scratch on coin while only putting a tiny nick on a gold ring. A scratch on a silver coin hurts a lot more than a nick on a gold ring as the gold value is the same regardless of the nick, and a good worn probe rarely nicks a gold ring very bad, while as a silver coin is often times ruined. For high conductors there is no need to try to push through it, all that is required is contact to locate it. What I really like about a good electronic probe like the TRX and the Tek Point is how they increase the speed of recovery....instead of probing to pinpoint a target, I can use the electronic probe to pinpoint the target and then use the steel probe to discriminate it. For example, say I using the F75 to hunt gold rings. I get a nice nickel range target....I do a quick pinpoint with the F75, then put the electronic probe to use and it will tell me if the target is shallow enough to pop out with my screwdriver probe or if I'll need to plug it. If the electronic probe will hit it, I can probe it. And if I can probe it then I can Id the target without having to dig it in many cases. If the probe tells me it a tab or a foil drink lid or a big wad of foil I can I leave it in the ground for the beep dig hunter to recover while I move on to something more likely to be what I'm after. HH Mike
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