From things I've read and heard, there is a small but loyal following for at least some of the CZ series (with single digits, -3, -4, -5, -6, etc.) and even claims that they are still today among the best coin detectors. I wasn't detecting when this series was available and don't know any more than a few snippets here and there in posts. They do show up on eBay and from (at least some of) the prices, I surmize they are still in demand. Would someone post an overview of the series, highs and lows, pluses and minuses, etc.? I think I've read that Tom Dankowski used to mod one of these models for extra depth. Also wondering if Dave Johnson had a hand in the design/engineering of this series or if they occurred in the time window when he was working elsewhere.
By Mark Gillespie
A guy found this detector in a wood pile at a local factory. Looked like it had been there for years, weathered badly, shaft was broken and coil was busted. As a challenge they gave it to me. Two days later I installed batteries and low and behold it came on. Couldn't find a manual so I went into experimental mode and can say I was impressed with the air test (for a China product).
To start with I thought it was a single tone machine, dime and nickel gave a high tone, but adjusting the ground balance and the discrimination revealed attributes that reminded me of the TDI. Now a nickel gives a low tone and a dime remained a high tone.
Next I took the machine to my test garden of over 10 years and was shocked to hear a repeatable response of my deepest targets.
Please note, I’m not promoting China products, only indicating what I found.
There is one adjustment on the side that I’m wondering about not sure what it might be.
Would also like information about this machine, the internet really doesn’t indicate when they were manufactured or much detail.
Steve, your a great source for unbiased information. I trust your opinion greatly. Don't fret over what just happened. Many many people view you as a great resource.
As you know I have been metal detecting for 30 years. I still consider myself a newbie. However, it is with the same old machine. Back when I purchased my machine we were told it will detect everything, it's a do all machine. I new of prospecting machines, but never knew the difference or seen the demand until I came to this forum. So if you have time, please answer these question. I am going to throw these out as I don't really know how to ask the correct question. What if the difference in a gold machine vs a regular machine? What makes them stand out? I know there is a frequency difference, but what make them stand on when looking for gold? Are they just not tuned for gold?
I got my first metal detector in 1986. It was a White's Coin Master 6000 DI Pro. I bought it because I live near the beach and a friend of mine had a friend who was selling them. I didn't know much about detectors and I used it on the beach in the dry sand only for about 3 years before life happened and I put it away. I didn't get another detector until 2010 and it was a ML 5000. Now that I had it I had to start learning about the desert and more about metal detectors.
One of the first things that I 'noticed' about a detector is that you don't have to be directly over a target to hear it. You get a sense for a target by coming close. You get a bigger sense for an aluminum can than you do a quarter for instance. I've searched and searched over the years for a way to describe this near to target sense which is much greater in the 5000 (PI) and the 7000 (ZVT) than with the Coin Master (VLF).
Today I was reading an email from Kellyco who is the company that services most Minelabs in the United States. They also sell most other detectors and give advice to their customers. The email that I received led me to a reprint of an article: How Metal Detectors Work Reprinted with permission from Modern Metal Detectors. The full article is here: https://www.kellycodetectors.com/catalog/how-metal-detectors-work#more
In that article it uses the term Fringe Area Detection and that gave definition to what I had been trying to describe for years. I had tried to say a coil is like a Nerf ball with many targets off the search area and you are drawn to a target like a moth to a flame. As it turns out this is just 'fringe area detection' which lets us push our detectors to much greater finds. I think you will see how many times we have discussed this part of metal detecting without using this term. The fringe area on my 7000 is larger than the illustration shown. Here is what the article says about fringe area detection:
Fringe Area Detection
Fringe area detection is a phenomenon of detection, the understanding of which will result in your being able to discover metal targets to the maximum depth capability of any instrument. The detection pattern for a coin may extend, say, one foot below the search coil. The detection pattern for a small jar of coins may extend, perhaps, two feet below the search coil as illustrated in the drawing on the facing page. Within the area of the detection pattern, an unmistakable detector signal is produced.
This illustration shows the location and approximate proportional size of the fringe detection area in which faint target signals from around the outer edges of a normal detection pattern can be heard.
What about outside the detection pattern? Does detection take place? Yes, but the signals are too weak to be discerned by the operator except in the fringe area around the outer edges of the detection pattern as shown in the drawing above. A good set of headphones is a must, if you desire to hear fringe area signals. The next more important thing, is training in the art of discerning the faint whispers of sound that occur in the fringe area. Skill in fringe area detection can be developed with practice, training, concentration and faith in your ability. Develop fringe area detection ability to a fine art and you are on your way to some great discoveries that many detector operators will miss. The ability to hear fringe area signals results in greatly improved metal detection efficiency and success.
Every since you posted that you lose depth when you ground balance, It is in the back of my mind........
"Ground balancing is a filter and not all that different that the way the discrimination system works. The ground signal or salt signal (or both) are identified and then tuned out. The ground effect is still there, but the detector subtracts it from the overall signal. The key word there is "subtracts". Ground balance methods work by subtracting part of the signal, and all subtractive methods create depth losses of some sort the closer any detected item gets to the "hole" created by subtracting the ground or salt signal. Signals are not perfect but spread over a small range, and so eliminating any signal usually means taking out a small range of signals. "
I have always tried to keep my detectors ground balanced while using them.... Now I wonder if I should?
Can you put my mind at ease......