GB_Amateur

Have you tried computer screen anti-glare protectors such as this? It's better (IMO) than the screen protectors included with the Minelab Equinox, for example, as it reflects less when in bright sunlight. I definitely like the quality of that UK made pod cover -- way better than the cheap-looking ones I've seen.

Their 808 product doesn't seem to be available in the USA but here is an inexpensive (CRC brand) version available in the USA which hopefully serves the purpose: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Heavy-Duty-Silicone-Lubricant/dp/B0042NWOLY/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2G6JEZVJM0YQT&dchild=1&keywords=crc%2Bsilicone%2Bspray&qid=1604002024&sprefix=CRC%2Bsilicone%2B%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-1&th=1 I just ordered a can. Thanks for the advice, Simon.

I think he shows it in the short video he posted this past weekend:

If that ever happens this site will dry up and then what will all of us do with our spare time? 😪 On second thought, we'll probably just still come here and argue (err, discuss). 😏

I assume you have five specific detectors in mind. Could you list, and also say which you feel are best for the individual categories you mention (sensitivity, depth, separation and TID accuracy)? We could probably make a pretty good guess by looking at your sidebar but I'd prefer to "hear it from the horse's mouth".

Welcome, chuckwalla! I look forward to your reports on your upcoming adventures.

Given that your 1894-O Barber dime is a semi-key, if his best finds are common dates I'd say you oudid him. What was the condition of your dime? Did it do well surviving a century in the (fresh-)water? I'm having my best year ever for old coins but not close to your 100 silvers. Good to see you've rejuvenated your silver output.

The problem with 2-box detectors (which it sounds like would be your best choice for this particular target) as are detailed in the post Steve linked is that they are good at basically one thing -- finding deep, large metal objects. Most metal detecting is conducted looking for smaller objects (coins, jewelry, military buttons, small gold nuggets, etc.). If you were to go buy a 2-box for this project you'd likely either end up selling it soon after or let it sit in the closet for a long time. If you have a metal detecting club in your area, IMO best would be to join and after getting acquainted & trusted, tell the members what you're trying to do. If someone among them has a 2-box s/he may let you borrow it or even come over to your place and help you find the can. It sounds as though you are also/mostly interested in other forms of detecting in which case your money is better spent on a standard style detector.

For USA reference/comparison, that's very close to equivalent to the weight of 2x 90% silver dollars and a bit over the combination of a $20 gold piece and $10 gold piece. Also equivalent in weight to five of the later Large Cents. Yeh, I'd say that's pretty hefty!

'Great' find! Do you know the composition? Have you weighed it? Run your Equinox over it to get a digital TID? Appears to have held up nicely in the wet salt sand. It's a bit difficult for me to surmise the size with only it in the closeup picture, so if you do rephoto would you mind putting in something to give us a feel for the scale?

If that were done after it left the mint it was a professional (machine shop) job -- not impossible. I would have expected some signs on the faces that showed the coin was firmly held, though. In addition, that might give a sharper raised edge which the photo doesn't seem to show. Sometimes the USA mints strike coins for other countries. It's a longshot (but many mint errors are just that), however a possible(?) scenario is that the collar for one of those foreign coin jobs was accidentally used in the press that was minting USA quarters. You appear to have done some internet research. You have a much better chance posting to an internet forum which specializes in error coins than here. Value? That's tough, even if it turns out to be a genuine mint error. The economics law of supply and demand requires demand, and error coin collecting is a specialty with a limited number of followers (compared to general numismatics). Often there has to be general concensus that grows value. Die errors (like double die coins) have a rabid following but mint errors that occur because of mistakes in the striking process -- not as much. Ironically sometimes the rarest occurrences have little value because there aren't enough examples to spark the community's interest. "It's worth what someone is willing to pay" is one of those seemingly unhelpful cliches, but always true. When collectors are few and far between that is about the best that can be done. If you can document the error pocess and advertise on Ebay (with documentation) you'll get your best current price. But that's a ways down the road.

https://www.nytimes.com/2020/10/19/style/crystals-mining-quartz-herkimer.html?action=click&module=Editors Picks&pgtype=Homepage (Author's name is Alexandra Marvar. Title is: Got Crystals? Gem Mining Could Be Your Full-Time Job.) Ugh. More/less the typical article that makes finding gems sound easier and more profitable than reality. Besides jewelry applications, they mention the New Age pseudoscience proponents. (Hey, maybe a good sales opportunity for LRL snake oil peddlers!) I am cutting and pasting one late quote which many of us can relate to: Among those freelancers is Ron Murray, 58, an osteopath in Seattle who mined quartz at Herkimer Diamond Mines from Memorial Day to Labor Day this year. For his first six years digging crystals, Mr. Murray said he was “too attached” to part with anything he found. But this year, upon returning home to Seattle, he planned to keep the top 5 percent of his harvest, and sell everything else. “Very few people can do this,” he said. “It takes stamina. It takes knowledge. It takes masochism.” Like many others who share his passion for crystal hunting, he calls it an addiction — one propelled by the unshakable thought that the next pocket of untold treasure may open up on the next swing.

How much was the total weight added?

That means you were into an old drop/loss area, I assume. Can you estimate how many detector coils were within arm's length of that over the decades? Maybe it was in your other post(s), but what detector(s) found these? Presumably a lot of hours expended, but IMO you're efforts paid off nicely.

So much history in your area. Do you know the composition of those?

Does this mean that a steady, repeating TID in the iron range can be safely ignored (i.e. not gold)?

We seem to see this reaction quite a bit here. I think coffee cans (and paper cups) should be required to add the following: Warning: drinking this product while reading detectorprospector.com could be hazzardous to your health

I've done a polycarbonate mod similar to Steve H.'s for my 6" coil. I attached it to the conventional coil cover rather than to the coil itself. Polycarb is tough (e.g. bullet-proof glass) although it scratches fairly easily meaning it isn't a good 'window' for many applications -- not relevent here. I agree that just covering the bottom allows rubble to collect on the top, requiring dumping it off often. You aren't alone with that wish. From day 1 (or even before) many have requested a closed eliptical like the 5"x10" that many other detectors (White's MXT, Fisher Gold Bug to name just two) have available. Minelab simply ignored everyone.

Have you seen this:

I hope my use of a well-recognized slogan doesn't result in a political discussion (or worse). Steve has made it clear that's not what this site is about. I don't know anything about White's political leanings, nor that of any other manufacturer, and I'd prefer maintaing my ignorance in that area. I consider detectorprospector.com kind of a club where everyone gets along. The best way to muck that up is to talk politics or religion. My bad, and I'm changing the original post.

I'd say we have the spectrum covered now. All they way from Garrett will "take White's back to their heyday" to "they just want to make sure they're buried as deeply as possible so as to never be heard from again." Do you think they are sharpening the stakes to drive into the vampire's heart?

Did s/he say how deep and how loud/strong the signal was? Impressive, and thanks to both of your for inspiring us.

I do. I wasn't aware that it corrected itself every time if a few seconds is allowed. I have noticed that sometimes, though. I'll try being more patient. 😁

Unfortunately very few users have the tools to do that properly. I guess you could roll-your-own but to do that correctly takes both ingenuity and understanding of the principles. Now you've got me wondering -- do the (authorized) repair shops actually go to the trouble of doing this correctly or rely on seat-of-the-pants methods? 🤔

FWIW, I use the Eqx pinpoint mode a lot. When it 'quirks' I just toggle it off and on again. Now, sometime the pinpoint function pulls me off the intended target due to a nearby strong target. I also use other pinpoint methods in both cases (i.e. with accurate pinpoint mode result and without.) That way I'm suspicious when different pinpoint methods don't agree, and I investigate further. It's quite rare I don't find the target -- approximately 1 in several hundred. Find a target different than I thought it should be (ID-wise)? -- often. Find a target located away from where I thought it should be? -- occasionally (a few times per hunt), particularly if I'm sloppy with my pinpoint, but even sometimes when I'm careful. Finding the target away from where I pinpointed seems to be particularly true when iron objects (such as nails, or bolts) are involved. Another issue occurs when the target is picked up by the edge of the coil (rather than the center). If that happens it usually means the target is very close to the surface. This is especially evil when two targets are a coils width apart and are picked up simultaneously, making it seem as though there is a single target halfway between. (90% angle of attack investigation usually reveals this, but in heavy iron you can't always do that.) BTW, I never use discriminate, except when searching for native gold and having to deal with lots of hotrocks. Same thing with handhelds -- always use them except only occasionally when searching for native gold. And one more thing -- the more I use the Equinox the better my pinpointing becomes.