By Tom Slick
Decided to mod the 800 rod by switching out the straight middle rod to the White's S rod. I know a lot of folks like a straight rod but by switching it out, it eliminates the detector's handgrip from wanting to twist at the end of each swing. In a side by side comparison, both myself and a buddy with an 800 both like the feel of the modified version. The mod requires the middle rod from a White's DFX, or MXT. The rod needs to be drilled on the upper top end for the spring plunger and again adjustment holes need to be drilled on the bottom for length adjustment. The Lower rod from a Makro Racer or Kruzer is used as the lower rod from the Nox is larger in diameter. The top of the S rod also needs to be shimmed about .040" in diameter to fit snug into the Nox upper rod. Now it swings about as close to an F75 as you can get.
I was looking for an option to do away with the 3 piece Minelab system. I came across the rods Doc makes for the gold hunters. I might be the first one shipped to use on the Nox. I like the stuff gold guys have, they swing big coils and are in tough conditions.
This is a good price point on this 2 piece system. Also great for tall persons. I am splitting with someone but for $230 we received two fiberglass lowers and a carbon fiber upper each for a unit cost of $115. Be aware this is for the rods only. I have added pictures and in the pictures you can see I have added my own Minelab two piece alum. cuff with neoprene covering [i think one of the best cuffs made]. I have also added a separate hand hold and will not use the detector itself to swing the rod. There are no holes for the Nox arm cuff or control unit you will need to drill for these. Dave
**update -- Production Of Rods To Begin Tuesday!** Equinox Lower Rod Project -- Prototype Rod Successful!By steveg
As some of you may know, I've been producing lower rods for the CTX 3030 for about 8 months now, selling them through the forums and my website (www.stevesdetectorrods.com) to a number of satisfied customers. Along the way, I've had several inquiries regarding whether I could build Equinox rods. My answer was always "no," as a major stumbling block was that piece that fits onto the "coil end" of the rod, i.e. the piece to which the coil attaches -- the "yoke," or "clevis," as I call it.
Well, with requests for me to build Equinox lower rods so frequent that eventually I couldn't ignore it any longer, I set my mind on working on a design for that clevis/yoke piece. Once I came up with a working design idea, I submitted engineering drawings of my design to the machining/fabrication company that supplies my CTX rod parts, and asked if they could build me a prototype. Meanwhile, I ordered a carbon-fiber tube from my tube supplier, in the precise diameter to fit inside the Minelab Equinox middle rod, and also some washers specific to my yoke/clevis design. The tube and washers arrived recently, and just today, the yoke/clevis was delivered. I'm pleased to say that it turned out perfectly! All the dimensions are correct/exacting, and I "test fit" the parts with success -- please see the pictures below. The only parts I'm still waiting on are the push-button "spring clip" for the upper end of the rod, and a specialized drill bit for drilling the hole for the spring clip. Those will be here soon -- and at that point my "proof-of-concept" prototype rod will be ready for me to use!
MEANWHILE, given the successful prototype, I am ordering parts tomorrow to make a first batch of 20 Equinox lower rods. As I said above, these rods are designed to fit seamlessly into the Minelab EQX middle rod -- exactly as the Minelab stock lower rod does. I plan to build them the same length as the Minelab lower rod as "standard practice," but can also build them to whatever length desired. I expect to have the first batch of rods available for sale in roughly 4 weeks. Tentatively, I expect pricing to be roughly $60 plus shipping -- but will know for sure once I place that first "bulk" order of carbon fiber tubes and yoke/clevis pieces.
If you have any interest one of these lower rods, please let me know, and I'll be sure to have one available for you.
Well i wondered when this would happen. Ive got at least 700 hours on my Nox ... but this morning in shallow water she let me down. Top part of the cuff broke off. The cuffs are really to far apart and with the torques we put on them back and forth you may consider a metal one a better choice if you water hunt. Kind of bad, i wanted to hunt with a couple of people from a few hours away who came for a few day and hadnt been able to because of the less that great weather. So about an hour into it........ ugh. But i kept pushing it along...... in the wet sand. At least i got a 1.4 gram 18K (750) necklace charm for all that work lol. Got home and called Jamie at ML........ new one coming Monday. How bout that for FAST? Thanks ML. At least there were finally some trash to at least chase around so ...... road trip again tomorrow. Like most of us ive got a few cuffs laying around.
A friend of mine got the Anderson shaft for his Nox, put it together, and when he has the coil on the ground and turns his wrist left and right, while holding the handle, the upper rod twist with his hand movements while the coil stays flat on the ground. Is this normal? Or, should the coil be lifted a bit depending on which way his wrist is turning?
I hope I'm explaining this well enough to be understood. Thanks for any info you may have.