Tom Slick

I used to live in Jensen Beach and found my best 3 diamond Platinum ring at Port St. Lucie. For my beach detecting, I like a sand scoop with about a 12-14" handle with the scoop made out of 1/2"square screen with a metal cutting lip for the dry sand. Longer handles have too much leverage and get darn heavy when you hold the handle horizontal to shake the sand out. The square screen (hardware cloth) drains the sand much quicker than a scoop with drilled holes. Shorter handles mean bending over more. I've seen many folks dragging larger scoops behind them in the dry. Too heavy, expensive and clumsy IMHO. For the wet sand, My favorite is a modified trenching shovel that I weld small sides to and drill small holes in the bottom. The holes are an absolute must to break the suction from the wet sand. For in the water you'll need a "Water" scoop with large basket, sharp cutting lip and they must be tough to take the pressure of pushing the scoop into the sand with your foot. I don't like this type scoop for the wet sand on the slope because you just about have to walk to the water to rinse the sand out of the scoop. With the shovel, only a quick twist of the wrist dumps the sand out.

Chase, If someone asks a question, I just try to answer if I can. I don't usually tell them to go look somewhere else. My bad.

Steve - Your graph makes it much easier for the novice to understand the differences between the two. I've been trying to explain it using words. The graph makes it much clearer.

I think Fe and F2 relate about like this: Realize that Fe only goes down to zero. I'm only showing a minus number so you can see that F2 goes four steps lower than Fe which equals better unmasking of non-ferrous targets located near ferrous items,. F2 Fe 0 -2.5 1 -2 2 -1.5 3 -1 4 0 5 2 6 4 7 6 8 8

This is my response from another similar question on another forum in regards to Iron Bias Fe vrs F2 : The higher the I/B setting, the more the detector tries to call questionable targets Iron. This can help in eliminating iron trash targets from being dug. Everything is a trade off - The higher the setting, the more likely the detector will call a masked good target "iron" if the good target is near a piece of iron (or nail). In an iron infested site you can raise the I/B so you don't dig too much trash but you run the risk of missing those co-located masked targets. The Original Nox 800 had an Iron Bias titled FE with a setting of 0 -8. Minelab came out with a software update the included adding the F2 settings or adjustment. They did this while keeping the original FE so you can toggle between FE and F2. The F2 goes even lower than the FE but they kept to same 0 -8 adjustment numbers, but the scale between FE and F2 is different. A setting of 4 on the F2 scale is the same as the FE setting of 0. so you can see that the new F2 has Four settings that are lower than FE - 0, and those are F2 settings 3,2,1 &, 0. Those new to the NOX 800 should probably start out with an Iron Bias setting of about 4 on the FE scale or about 6 on the F2 scale until they find out how much iron they're digging. Then you can increase or decrease the setting as you become more familiar with the detector's behavior. The ideal would be to eventually work your way down to F2 - 0 as you become accustomed to the Nox audio. This will achieve maximum unmasking abilities. I'm sure others will chime in with possibly a better way to explain the difference between FE and F2. Hope this helps. Quote

I was on the waiting list for the Nox and received mine a little over two tears ago. Anyone that's had one for "2 1/2 years" let alone a "dozen years on theirs" . That's quite an accomplishment on its own. 😁

I've dug a number of deeper silver dimes that I thought were quarters for sure. I always recheck my holes and have been surprised that there wasn't another dime in there. I much prefer the detector up averages the deeper targets but on a few occasions I've had deep fringe targets read lower than they should. That's just the way it is. We all wanted "deep" detectors and when it seems they had reached their limit, we all wanted "fast" detectors for better separation and target unmasking. I think we'd all love to have a detector that is deep, and fast, with a rock solid, non-wavering, locked on, VDI. No up averaging, no down averaging. Just a good solid repeatable number. Now that would be nice.

I watched the Garrett Video and All I got out of it was that the Apex was light, had a rechargeable battery and it makes the other Garrett detectors old heavy technology. So I'm thinking nobody in their right mind would but an Garrett besides the Apex. I know this is the Makro/Nokta forum but I never visit any Garrett forum and I had to express myself somewhere.🤪

Welcome, You've come to the right place. Another one sees the light.

I've been closer than I wanted to be to quite a few rattle snakes that never rattled. The're probably a new type that should be called non-rattle snakes or rattleless snakes. It would be kinda nice if they would all just rattle to let us know they're there. Encounters like your's usually result in folks wearing their snake gators more often. Glad everything worked out OK for you. I was out for a couple hours this morning hunting an old wagon road outside Phoenix. Just a couple of relics, one with a Pat. Date Nov. 17, 1883. Would rather have dug a couple of nuggets. 🙂

I found a spare brown Tesoro Arm cuff in my detecting stuff so It's back to original.

Got a call from my Sister yesterday afternoon. "I'm at Goodwill and they have a metal detector here for $7.50. You want it?" "Sure, what is it?" "A Tesoro Lobo" "You bet" "OK, I'll bring it over later". It has a broken arm cuff, but other than that it's really clean. Very Good to excellent condition. Not all my "Treasure Hunting" is done with a detector. Just wanted to share.

EMI - Did you try turning the Sensitivity down? Next step, return it to the Minelab service center.

I think its a red lens off a railroad lantern. I used to have a larger lantern than the one in the photo and it had larger lenses.

I have to agree with Cal_Cobra. Send your Nox 800 to me so I can dispose of it for you. I've had a couple of Sovereign GT's over the years and I think you should stick with it. Great at the beach too. 😁

I've also fond iron wrap around and disc 39 - 40 on almost all my programs.

Where did it say five new detectors or machines? I only read five new products. Maybe a pin pointer, backpack, hat. vest, and dog whistle? I doubt we'll see five new "machines" by end of next year from the five leading detector manufactures all together, but I do like all the positive thinking. 😀

I have a magnetic rake I got of ebay. Works really well and disturbs the soil just enough to suck up the iron in the top inch or so. It can also be turned over with the smooth side down to just get the surface trash.

I'm happy to hear you picked up the Anfibio coil for your MMK and that it's working well for you. It really is a great coil.

I found no difference in depth between the Multi Kruzer and the Anfibio Multi using the same coil.

The AF28 coil which is the standard 11" round DD coil on the Anfibio will give you a couple more inches depth compared to the standard Mulit Kruzer 7" X 11" without adding the extra weight of the AF35 coil. I've had the Anfibio and still have the Multi Kruzer. I really liked the AF28 and will get one for my Kruzer one of these days.

Why block 12,13,14. This is the nickel range and some really nice men's gold rings fall into those numbers.

So quick and easy to do an Auto G/B that I almost always go that route. In over two years with the Nox I haven't found a need to use tracking but then again I haven't used it at the beach or Nugget hunting yet.

Love the watch winder. Coins not too bad either.🙂

I'm working on my own Bi-Polar design. Yesterday was a good day with some great gains made, but today I just can't get motivated to do anything about it.