Tom Slick

In my neck of the woods, I find Nickels to come in at 13 about 95% of the time. Rarely do they hit at 12 and I don't think I've ever dug a 14 nickel. Any lake that is producing pull tabs and especially the older ring tabs is prime Gold Ring Habitat. Not it they are an indication of gold being present, but a good sign that nobody has hunted it well or for quite some time.

The iron in the metal and the jagged edge.

Chase, I agree with you except I think that Nokta/Makro detectors have surpassed the AT series so even at a reduced price the AT line won't support Garrett much longer.

Looks like business travel has been good for you. To bad ?they're mostly Merc's. (my second favorite coin). Which coil you been using?

I started using the Nox 800 in Park 1 with the factory setting of 6 on the I/B. Most all my detecting is now done around old home sites, lots, and ghost town sites. As I became more familiar with the Nox, I started lowering the I/B gradually and now only run it at "0". I found that by running the lower I/B that I could go back to areas I had hunted before and continue to pull more non-ferrous each time I lowered it. I dig a little more iron now but the unmasking benefit makes it worth it to me. If I was traveling and only had the opportunity to hit a spot once, I'd increase the I/B to basically cherry pick it, but I feel the lower the I/B the better, if you don't want to miss anything. I've been detecting for about 45 years and my hearing is still very good. I most always hunt with the disc set a zero or with the horseshoe button engaged. I make most all my dig or no-dig decisions on what I hear. The meter comes into play on those signals that my ears can't decipher. Most of the time, I'm looking for reasons to dig a target, not reasons to not dig it. If I'm hunting a modern park and looking for clad and jewelry, I set the I/B at 6 but around iron infested sites I'll run the I/B at zero with my first tone break set to zero and my first bin volume also set to zero. I don't need to hear the iron "to keep me on the site" as the sites go from this fence to that fence, or I can just keep a look out for rusted cans. That's how I do it, anyone else?

You can adjust both the volume and the frequency of the tone. Factory default is set at 25 for both. I use volume set at 24 but frequency for the highest tone set at 25 hz.

I've got a couple rolls of un-dug War nickels and can't find any that read high. High reading war nickels must be fairly few and far between.

I went for the "S" rod shape because I thought it crazy to add weight to my detector to make it swing better when I could make it swing better by adding the "S" rod and not having to add weight. Different strokes.

I switched mine to an S rod. I used a White's center rod as they are only $19.00 where the Minelab Center rod for a 705 is $45.00. The problem is that the White's rod has a smaller diameter than the Equinox rod so I had to shim it. I used the plaastic lid off a Folgers Coffee container and it was the perfect thickness. With it being a flexible plastic, it slid into the upper rod very easy and the twist lock on the Nox holds it very securely. Of course I had to also drill it on the bottom for the spring button, and I use White's lower rods for my coils. Being a past White's dealer, I have lots of lower rods. Been using it this way 3 to 4 times a week for a year and it's holding up great. I think it swings much better as there is no rotational twisting at the end of each swing.

Tracking can mess you up if you're detecting around a lot of iron as the detector will start to track to the iron (nails). I've found that unless I'm hunting in highly variable mineralized ground, the detector works best by doing a manual GB, or just turning it on and hunting works better than using tracking.

The Racer 2 can only use the Makro Wireless headphones. Makro used a proprietary system and not conventional Blue Tooth. I think you could use the Garrett Z Link if you want a wireless system that allows you to use the headphones of your choice.

Brian, I've been using a couple of three port chargers like the one you mentioned above. One thing I've found is that with these "smart" chargers they sometimes won't go into a charge mode unless there is a decent drain or pull on the charger. The charger will just sit there because it doesn't notice the item that's plugged into it. If there's not enough draw or pull nothing happens. I've solved that issue by most always plugging in the detector at the same time as the earbuds or headphones. The detector draws enough to keep the charger in charge mode and not just in maintenance mode. If this makes any sense.

I once had the same issue. What worked for me was to turn off the headphones(earbuds) and the detector. Turn on the headphones and hold down the pairing button(on/off switch) until the blue lights start to flash red-blue-red-blue. Turn on detector - hold wireless connect button (top right of detector) down for 5 seconds. Pairing should happen within a minute or two. Hope this helps. Works the same on my headphones and my earbuds.

Brian, Looking forward to your hunt results. Been thinking about getting the 15" coil myself. May work great at hunting the outer limits of some sites around here.

Great find! I hope he's not like me. I usually forget to take my best finds to the meeting.

The simple answer is to LOOK at the targets after recovery, then its pretty easy to tell the difference between gold and trash. Sounds sarcastic but it's really the only sure fire way.

Iron Bias is basically the same thing as White's "Bottle Cap Reject". It's been on a number of White's detectors, V3i, VX3, DFX, etc. An adjustment to help make sure bottle caps (iron) registered as such and not a coin. Of course now, many bottle caps are actually an iron /alloy making it more difficult to disc out without missing good targets also. DD coils don't help in that regard. In the past, most detectors used concentric coils which are better at discrimination but now most manufactures use DD coils as standard equipment. Each have their advantages.

There's also the 11' round DD coil from the Anfibio that will work on the MMK. Gets more depth than the standard 7.5" X 11" MMK coil.

No need to do the factory Reset. Just switch them out.

Very good! I know a few guys that have been detecting much longer than you and still haven't found their first silver. ?

Last week I scored a 1945 S war nickel here in AZ. It reads a solid 16 VDI. My Buffs and V's have all been 12-13. If I get a 13, it's a nickel.

After reading your posts, I finally figured out that you were talking about where you have set your tone breaks. The "Bins" thing kind of threw me for a bit. I usually set my 5 tone breaks at 2/11/13/22 , with the tones set at 1/6/20/15/25. This makes the nickels jump out almost as high as the dimes and quarters.

After having the Impact and now the Multi Kruzer, I don't see that the Anfibio will offer anything additional that is needed or necessary for fresh water or land hunting that the MMK doesn't already have. But then again I've been wrong before, like the time I thought I was wrong but I wasn't ?

Great Hunt! Funny how some yards hold nothing and others are loaded. I like the loaded kind.

I'd love to attend a Nokta/Makro event in the USA. I did attend another manufacture's event in CA where they introduced a detector that has GPS. (so it can find itself if it gets lost).