kac

I just ordered a Multi Kruzer and love to find out how it works out. If I was digging an area like that with my Tejon or AT Pro I would cherry pick but more importantly try to get tone breaks on the obvious trash. As an example on The AT I would set my iron disc at 32-33 or just where nails make a crackle sound. Same on any modern slag. It is important not to totally cut those sounds out as they are indicators and sometimes if you cut them out completely and they are masking a good object you will lose that too. Broken sound will sound different when there is a masked object nearby so find a crackle or scratchy sound then make a swing in couple different directions with a dd coil and see if you lose it or it gets louder. Looks like the Kruzer has a much finer notching system than the AT Pro and the Tejon has just 2 discrims and used to work ranges of targets. If there is a lot of aluminum trash I would try the 19 khz. If it is just mixed targets I would go with the 14 khz. That's how I plan on using the machine to start. If the targets aren't generally too deep you can also drop down the gain so not everything hits hot. I do that a lot in parks with my Tejon as it seems to gives me a better sound on different medium to shallow targets. Tejon is a high gain machine like the Kruzer and running it at full gain when not needed flattens my audio out. Lastly I would stick with the stock coil, 7" wide DD should be fine on that machine. I maybe asking you for some tips soon 🙂

Melting metal with a torch isn't the best indicator of metal type. Even using MAP gas on the hottest torch head (without oxygen) doesn't get you to max temperature as ambient air, size of the object and req btu's all factor in. I use a covered crucible with MAP and can only melt small amounts of brass or aluminum to a pour temperature and don't have enough btu's to do any significant castings. Faint green means the metal has some copper in it but that could be from just about anything. It could be from plating ie an aluminum part that was chrome plated etc.

Probably best left alone. From my experience trying to clean coins with heavy patina usually leaves nothing below but craters. Mild rinse is about all you can do. I think I came across a flowing hair at one the spots I hit but was worse shape. Some of those large cents in good shape bring in some serious $$$$ If there are woods nearby, check around there and you should have better condition finds.

If you have access to a 3d scanner, digitize the model then bring that into a program like FormZ or Rhino and you can get a precise volume and find what the specific density is to compare to metals. Still looks like some slag to me.

Possible to be pewter but depends the age. Old pewter had lots of lead in it so it would be much duller gray where lead free pewter (Britannia 8 ) is bright. It could be tin from maybe an old fire. Tin was used in roof's and flashing. Any old house fires could leave blobs of tin like that but you should be able to find a lot more scattered around.

My guess on that is it has been sitting in the dunes nearby for good many years before washing down from the erosion. There was an old foundation starting to show on the beach that I never seen before. Might have been a bathhouse or changing room back in the 50's so it could have been protected there. In general purer silver holds up well even in the old farm fields unlike the copper and copper alloys that get roasted. Not too long before I found a Trime which is close in size. Really thought I had another.

Doesn't gold shoot up in price just before a recession? Or is that just a coincidence over the last recessions we had?

Good possibility it was treated like a football in shipping. Every get it replaced?

Thats cool!

Might be able to track down the owner or family members of the school ring.

Big question is are they targeting the Nox or the Vanquish? I'm taking a wild guess they are going for the click and go market.

Off to a great start with that MK, might have to pick your brains on tips if I snag one. 🙂

Welcome to the forum!

I think Nokta has a nice range of coils and no real need to go to a 3rd party company. If I do pull the trigger on the MK I will start with the stock, see how it fairs in the areas I have picked through. Eventually snag the 13 for the open fields that have deep top soil. If it struggles with bottle caps in parks I'll consider the 9" concentric. Outside of those 3 coils I really can't see the need for more than that. The hours I have swung the Nel Big weighing in at 3 lbs is brutal and the only real return on it was a couple of silver dimes at 14" or so. Hardly worth the work. Everything else I had found with that beast of a coil was well in range of a stock 8 1/2x 11 stock dd.

I know exactly when it's coming out. Less than a week after my next detector purchase!

The larger concentric might be better but the stock should cover the majority of your hunting even the woods. Only real benefit of the concentric is when you hit flat iron like bottle caps so if you plan on hitting areas that are infested with those then it may help. For woods finds tend to be much shallower than fields. Do a quick dig and see where that clay line is and measure that, I'm betting the stock coil should hit that with no problem. My Tejon barely hits a dime at 10" with the larger coil and often much less. Low conductors are no issue. Figures they built on an old site. Up this way there was a civil war training site on an old farm. Most of the farm has been subdivided up and they stuck crappy mansions on it. Only a small patch of dirt is left for the site. Can't even sneak in and check because the contractors dump so much fill and loam the original ground is long gone. Same thing has happened to a nearby powder house that was litterally moved across the road so they could stuff some crap houses in! I think the powder house dates back to the 1600's.

11" on a 7" wide coil is really impressive! So a guestimate with a 13" coil maybe 13" min on the merc, maybe more? Was looking at some tube videos, one showed you can double click the mode and it will flash giving a different option that gives better signal on fringe objects but may pick up mineralization as well. Seems like there are lots of little things you can do on that machine to get different results. I glanced through the manual out of curiosity and it did mention frequency shift is available for each of the frequencies under the frequency mode. Not sure how you access them but guess that maybe a double click like some the other options have? Getting itchy to pull the trigger and get one of those 🙂

Lower frequency should hit high conductors better. High frequencies hit low conductors better. Anyways having absolutely 0 experience on the Kruzer, my 2 cents is if it is chattery drop the sensitivity down. Just because the sensitivity has a range of 0-100 doesn't mean you can run it at 100 all the time as conditions will effect what it can do. If emi is the issue then try a frequency shift. Not sure if the MK has frequency shift on each of the main frequencies if not just jog through and see if any of them makes a difference. When I run my Tejon I don't always max it out on sensitivity. Big open areas where I need depth like a field I'll push the machine to where it is just runs quiet and run the ground a bit hot. Pine forest where items are typically shallow I can run it at half way. Same in a park there is no need to max it out. I think that if the machine is pushed too far everything runs hot and it becomes harder to tell differences on targets. More so on an analog machine that has no display. On the contrary the AT Pro can run full blast almost all the time as that machine is pretty tame. bit about ground balance, I took my Tejon out to a local beach that is almost all wash as the erosion is horrible. I was able to push the Tejon at 10 (max but not overload which would be a hypothetical 15 on the dial). I could not ground balance it but set my gb 1 1/2 turns which would be half way where the ground was hot but machine ran quiet and very little falsing if any. Running it in AM mode would just make noise as the you could hear everything but kicking the first disc up shy of foil it was quiet as a mouse and I was able to snag a few coins, old beat up silver ring (not 925) and some odd brass piece maybe from a toy and of course usual sinkers. Anyways I always try for a quiet machine rather than a noisy one as I find myself to be fatigued from the noise and end up missing targets. All those targets where in the 6-10 range damp sand. Nothing to brag about other than the Tejon is not a beach machine.

If they are fake then you got some fantastic paperweights for $500 hehe. I think they are real.

Look up the token on ebay and you will see. Funny the stuff people collect.

I have been eyeing the Multi Kruzer for a while now. Always thought it was a sleeper machine on performance and overshadowed by all the Nox fans. I thought that the MK with the 13" coil would be killer on small silver running at 5khz. For kicks you should try a depth test on deep mode at 5khz and see how it hits a silver dime. Still using my Tejon for the most part.

Well done. You be surprised but often tokens are worth more than many coins even though they say no cash value. Some reason they are collectable. I got some oldies from pitching machines and carnivals. Not so much on the Chucky Cheese ones though. I recognized the panama penny, found one up here in the NE in a ball field. Cool looking coin.

Looks real, did you find that?

Should be possible but expensive. My guess for any descent size screen will boost the cost of the machine quite a bit.

I usually take 7" off my first scoop as I usually miss my target the first time hahah