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Steve, Your View On Recovery Speed On The Equinox?


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3 hours ago, flakmagnet said:

I have done the same thing Redneck, bumped the audio tones and volume higher in two notches I have fashioned; a notch around 13 (nickels), and a notch above 18. I have slightly lowered both the tones and the volume in two other notches. It makes targets jump out of the noise. I still dig lots of signals that seem to be ferrous just to make sure I am learning to hear the ranges different targets fall into...it's fun.  

So when you say "notch" you are not using it in the traditional sense of a notch filter but narrow un-masked "segments", correct?  Otherwise, I found the above discussion a little confusing because I was equating notch to blanking, masking, or discriminating.

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Chase, I could well be using the wrong description.

 DirtFishing's video explains it better than I can, (and what is the correct word for it?)

Anyway, that is what I have been messing with. Sorry for the confusion.

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if we set up any program like the one seen here, how do we save it? i know if we put it in user profile it gets erased when powering down. 

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Forget the User Profile. Choose one of the Search Profiles closest to what you want, and modify it accordingly. The detector saves the changes automatically and the will be there exactly as you left them next time you use the detector. If you want to start over, you can reset that profile individually or do a full system reset.

In my opinion User Profile is not worth the hassle, but that’s just me.

D907323C-D6CB-4C57-9DE3-2AA938F11505.jpeg

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Steve I agree completely. Once I found that whatever changes in settings you make is retained when you switch the detector off, User Profile became far less important. 

And Chase I was meaning "Tone Breaks" when I was trying to describe where I had been making changes. I will learn this detector vocabulary yet.

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It's interesting that over the past couple of months ML added some new user adjustable parameters to the EQ.

One thing that kept me from ever trying a Dues, or diving into a V3i, is not that they aren't great detectors in their own right, because they certainly are if you have the time to learn them, but that I have limited time to detect, but not unlimited amounts of time to fiddle around with an unlimited amount of variables.  It's one reason I've loved the F75, Omega, Racers, Impact, Multi Kruzer, as they employ the KISS formula, which affords me more detecting time. 

For example, I'll never forget reading a post a few years ago when I was somewhat interested in the Dues, and the OP stated something to the effect that they visited a cellar hole on day 1 and didn't get a thing, the next day they returned and by simply increasing their reactivity setting by one point (or something along those lines), the site came alive!

 I never felt with the FTP, Nokta/Makro machines that if I was off on a setting a bit that it would throw my hunt in the toilet, but now that the EQ800 has introduced these additional settings, along with the ones we read about when it was released, I'm wondering if it could potentially fall victim to that scenario, whereas your off a little bit on one setting, too much iron bias, too little reactivity, etc., that it throws your hunt in the toilet. 

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Cal, I am not a one for complicated detectors either.   The EQ  is rather easy to set up and learn.   If you can figure out the Impact, the EQ should be a breeze.    You will have a blast with it.   

It took me a while to set up the volume tone groups , that's really been the most difficult for me. Now that I have done it once,  there is not much to it. 

The real shocker for me has been how accurate the ID is .  Nickels, 13, with the deeper nickels bounce 12-13.  If it bounces into 14 , its aluminum canslaw.   

The EQ is deep.  Most of the plugs I cut, the target is down deeper. and my orange soil is nasty.

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22 minutes ago, Redneck said:

Cal, I am not a one for complicated detectors either.   The EQ  is rather easy to set up and learn.   If you can figure out the Impact, the EQ should be a breeze.    You will have a blast with it.   

It took me a while to set up the volume tone groups , that's really been the most difficult for me. Now that I have done it once,  there is not much to it. 

The real shocker for me has been how accurate the ID is .  Nickels, 13, with the deeper nickels bounce 12-13.  If it bounces into 14 , its aluminum canslaw.   

The EQ is deep.  Most of the plugs I cut, the target is down deeper. and my orange soil is nasty.

Cool beans!   I'll have to print out a cheat sheet with Steve's TID and some other quick bits for field use until it's committed to memory.  The TID scale is different then anything I've used, mostly all previous detectors I've used have been the traditional 0-99 scale, except for my old Sovereign w/the Sunray 180 meter.

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Getting back to recovery speed, I understand the whole concept of trash separation and the effects on depth, but I was wondering in a general sense if you are "normally" a fast sweeper or a slow sweeper should you hedge higher in recovery speed for fast sweepers and lower for slow sweepers. Or base recovery speed solely on trash density and the need for separation?

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Faster recovery speeds tolerate faster sweep speeds. In general no matter the sweep speed it is wise to slow down in dense trash. Bottom line both sweep speed and recovery speed work together.

Owners Manual Page 51:

Swing Rate
A good general swing rate is around 2-3 seconds from right-to- left-to-right. A higher Recovery Speed generally allows for a faster swing rate with less likelihood of missing targets.

A higher Recovery Speed, for the same swing rate, will help to reject ground noise, but also decrease detection depth. A lower Recovery Speed, for the same swing rate, will increase detection depth, but may increase noise.

If you are experiencing high levels of ground noise at the beach, or when detecting underwater, try increasing the Recovery Speed to reduce the noise. It is also possible to vary both swing rate and Recovery Speed to help minimise ground noise.

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