Jump to content
31-coinshooting

Newbie Trying To Get A Metal Detector ( Trying To Avoid A Garrett Vs Other Brands Fight )

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, this is my first post. I've been collecting coins for almost 15 years, and years ago I started rock collecting thanks to my daughter who got me interested. If you put this two ingredients together... I would like to start with metal detecting focus in current and old coins. Going to parks, lakes, old houses, beaches, rivers, you name it... but like I said before, focus mainly in current and old coins to add to my collection!!!)

I've been doing research for which machine to get and I know for newbies like myself this can be overwhelming and tentative (NOX 600/800) because there always going to exist a better machine for a little more money than what you are planning to spend an sometimes discussions in forums can confuse you even more. I'm a very dedicated person I do not mind spend time to get to know a MD cool.gif


Which MT would you recommend me to get to find coins anywhere (not necessarily waterproof but I will need it for shallow water)
under 500$?

... I live in Maryland just as a reference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi 31-coinshooting, 

Welcome to the forum!

I had to laugh at your thread headline - ( Trying To Avoid A Garrett Vs Other Brands Fight ) - and yet you still came to a metal detecting website for advice  ?

All joking aside, the Nox 600 should do everything you want in the coin/relic side of things and I'm reasonably sure it was around that US $500 mark (sorry, I now see it is US$649).   The bonus of going for the 800 is a couple of different audio abilities it has and the wireless headphones it comes with which are quite good.  And prospecting mode which you might use in the future?   

You may even pick up a used 800 at the price point you are looking at but be very wary of counterfeit units. 

Best of luck with your decision  ?

NE.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you want a new metal detector and want to stay under $500, the Equinox 800 is out and the 600 is probably out too, although maybe a vendor can make you a special deal if you call them up. I know of one in particular that can definitely get you a discount if you simply ask, although I get the impression most are like that. If you're in the military, Minelab has a 15% discount, I believe. That may be enough to get you the Equinox 600 under $500...maybe.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One word that stood out in your question was you mentioned beach, that changes things a bit.  You'll have to make sure your choice of detector can handle wet sand.  You're safe with an Equinox but a lot of detectors don't handle wet sand well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Steve Herschbach has created a phenomenal section with detector reviews.  Be sure and scroll through it and see if any peak your interest.

 

https://www.detectorprospector.com/metal-detector-database/

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I need to explain myself a little better. 

First, I'm removing completely the beach from my places to look for coins, I do not know If I need a waterproof MD, since I'm just going to use it in small streams where the water is very shallow, a waterproof coil should do.
Second, I'm not going to spend more than $500 (maybe $550 including the pointer but that is it.) So, I'm definitely not getting the NOX 600 right now.
Third, what do you guys think about the AT PRO, X-TERRA 705, TEKNETICS T2 CLASSIC, White's TREASUREpro, and FISHER F4, which one will you get based on my needs, previously explained?
Finally, anyways after my first MD (still do not know which one) I will save money to eventually get the NOX 800.
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an AT Pro and it is tricky to use at the beach, friend has the AT Max and it fairs much better but also tricky. The Nox's do best as far as vlf's in the salt because they are true multi frequency and not single or selectable.

Having a selectable frequency machine that can handle 10khz or less to 20 khz would cover just about any situtuation ie lower frequency for salt, mid frequency general coin and relic and high frequency for gold and jewelry.

There is also thee Nokta Simplex that might be worth looking at for around $300 and supposed to be simple to use. It is pretty new but has the different presets for different hunting and ships with a descent coil.

There seems to be a bit of a price hump between the $500 mark and the next level of machines ie nox 600 and 800 as an example.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nokta Simplex sounds like a great detector but it has not been released yet. 

Fisher F44 is in your price range and you could get an F-Pulse pinpointer to go with it. Some vendors like Serious Detecting, Big Boy Hobbies etc. might make you a nice bundle deal. 5 year warranty. Water resistant control box and waterproof coils. This detector is not the deepest but it is an excellent buy and has a large selection of FTP and aftermarket coils to choose from.

Same for the Teknetics T2+ or Teknetics Patriot. 5 year warranty. Very powerful, fast detectors.

The F4 is older tech, just like the X-Terra. The X-Terra is a great detector but has very slow recovery speed/separation.

The Whites Treasure Pro is okay but it also suffers from slow recovery speed and target separation.

You can definitely find an AT Pro in your price range if you bargain with the dealers. Again it is older, somewhat slower tech/recovery speed and separation.

Makro Racer 2 is awesome So is the newer Makro Kruzer. You can probably find one just above your price range.

Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As a T2 owner I can say the T2 is very good on coins and jewellery, It has EMI issues but I believe it's' been improved in the newer ones, I don't hear people with the new T2 Classic complaining about EMI near as much as the people with an original T2 like myself.  EMI is also nowhere near as bad as I thought with it either as mine had an issue which has been resolved (loose wire). 

Seeing you're new to detecting I should explain what I mean by the EMI issues I guess.  If the sensitivity is turned up too high you can get false signals and chatter, turning sensivity down and shifting frequencies resolves it.  Newer T2 models have better shielding and digital shielding technology (DST) and aren't as badly effected.  I can find a 11" coin with sensitivity at 60 out of 99 in my soil with the T2 in a high EMI area so you don't need to be too concerned by the EMI problems.

It's the most comfortable detector I own, probably one of the most comfortable detectors ever made.

It's very deep on coins and pretty good target ID's too. 

It's simple to use but you don't need to try run its sensitivity maxed out, it runs better and deeper if you don't but the powers there if you need it for a certain situation.

It works on the beach, especially in dry sand, struggles in wet sand but can be used.

It's very fast, great for getting good targets out of junk, especially with the 5" coil.

The coils are waterproof and it has the pinpoint/ground balance trigger, my favorite thing about it other than the shaft design.

It has nice loud audio, you don't need to wear headphones even in a noisy environment and it's batteries last for weeks.

In the price range it's at it's a great buy.

You may not need to save money to get the Nox 800 like you said, you may find the money, or a ring or two to cover its costs ?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By spandexlurch
      Hi everyone, first post. I'm currently new to metal detecting and I am using a loaned Whites 6000b coinmaster. I haven't dug anything but junk so far but I'm considering buying my first detector. My coworker has a Minelab CTX 3030 and I don't imagine I'll buy something that expensive as a beginner. I was looking at the Minelab Vanquish 540 or the Garrett Ace 400. I know very little about the different detectors but not looking to spend over $500 on my first. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    • By Lobo Exp
      I just recently got one of these Russian boards, which IMO looks like a good piece to work with. I read over the supplied build instructions which are fairly clear, but in a way are not totally, at the same time. I have worked with circuits quite a lot over several years, I went back to a site that discusses working with timer IC's of which in this build uses the 7555, a CMOS version of the vaunted 555 that uses 1/10th the power. This is where the MD transmitter freq. is produced. There are several ways to construct the oscillator and in the case of this design, I find one very small issue. Since as I mentioned, I just got this board and still working at putting it together, obviously I haven't tested it. Here is what I am here to discuss with anyone looking at this version, thinking about building one, or has one working. The 555 system has been know to experience unstable responses if there is no Capacitor connected from pin 5 to ground ! There is no Cap to pin 5 included in this circuit design and it uses a few other features that differ from the basic osc. circuits  A .01ufd cap which on this board can be installed on the back side of the board from pin 5 to the nearest ground buss and should be some improvement to the function and stability of the circuit, it is 'optional' and it will work without it. It is a very small mod but in my experience sometimes that is all it take to work or not. I also suggest to use .100 inch header pins for connecting any of the peripheral parts. Doing this makes it easier to R&R the board for working on it, you will need to be extra diligent about connecting everything back in the proper place but if you have gone this far with this project, that is a no brainer. There are a couple of places the .100 header pins will not fit perfectly but you can get around that with the use of a single break away pin and just a tiny bit of force to re align so your connection will fit as you continue assembly. 3 pins on the right of the rough GB Pot on board are one place, another is the 2 holes just to the right and above the 4 large elect. caps around the Vreg, LM7808 or LM7809, also using a 7809 might give you a slight bit of bump in performance. Since the circuit uses a +12v supply battery, there is still a bit of margin left so that the dropout V is going to remain above the output V of the regulator until batteries are getting too low. Using a battery carrier that holds 8 AA cells, alk or even NiM rechargeables will or should work and you should still be able to get this inside the housing. The use of NiM may exhibit an issue with the 7809 so make the choice based on what battery V you plan on using. One could also use an extra bat pack in series to push the V higher for the input, as the 78xx can handle up to 30v input, this will give you a lot more operation time before the dropout V becomes an issue. I would also think installing some reverse polarity protection here, 'NEVER a bad addition to any circuit and simple, a couple of small diodes and a fuse added to the project, around a 200 milliamp mini fuse is a good rating, put some extras inside the case. The current draw of this unit is very low so you can run your batteries way down this way and still keep going, having a small solar setup would be a good thing to have with you to boost batteries also, you could make it to fit over your hat!!! I am in the U.S. and have considered doing assembly of projects in the future,,, if my board works out. The one good thing I like about this system is that it should work with several different coils out there and one can even construct their own coil if using careful attention. Coils are really not that hard to make if you have and follow the instructions. Making the casing is probably the worst part of it, using resins and hardeners. Shielding is a bit critical here. I will mention that it is almost essential that you have an oscilliscope to build one of these for adjusting the timer section freq. the 5k pot on the left side of the 7555 and also setting amplitude on the upper right of 7555, the one just left of the 14 pin IC spot.. If you don't have a scope, there are apps online that make your PC work as one and you will have to learn how to use it, or get someone that knows to help with it. Also a transistor tester is helpful and when working with these parts, you MUST know the pins and install them RIGHT if you intend to have it work but you already know this if you are thinking about assembling one. 
    • By TreasureHunter5
      I would like to start detecting neighbors property, but I am not sure how to go about it. Does anyone have advice on asking my neighbors(who I don’t know very well) or asking people in different neighborhoods? How do I tell them there yard will not be damaged. I dig my holes in a circle in my grass and pull up the plug. I then check to see if the signal in in the hole or in the plug. Wherever it is I use a t shirt to put the dirt on and find the target. I them spill the dirt in the hole and place the plug back in the way it came out. It does look a bit brown after I do it, but as time goes by you can’t even tell. I did it in my yard lasted year, and this year you can’t even tell. Is this a good way of digging, or is there a better way? Any advice is appreciated!! Thanks!!
    • By harivney
      Thinking ahead. Will be moving closer to Clearwater and St Pete Beach Florida later this year. What metal detector would you choose for wet sand and shallow wading - an Equinox or Impulse AQ (assuming its available)?. Based on what I have read, it seems Impulse is supposed to find gold rings that Equinox has missed.  
    • By Bambam
      I am pretty new to detecting, having used friends detectors from time to time, and am looking to purchase my first detector.  I can get a pretty good deal on either of the two, and am wondering what experienced hobbyists opinions are on which you would buy between the Fisher F5 or Nokta Makro Simplex, and why? Ease of use isn't really a concern as I am confident I can learn to use either.
×
×
  • Create New...