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There might have been a midden nearby.

Setting iron break at 33 should eliminate the iron trash like nails and smaller. This still keeps the better stuff. 40-50 can be bits of coal and coke, thin brass, foil, can slaw and high end gold chains, med size earings, pendands, rings. Nickels break at about 52 but not uncommon to have them come in lower depending on orientation in ground. Beefy 10k rose gold can be higher. Coppers will run as high at 92 (large cent) Silvers range from 58-60 (trime) through 90 (silver half dollar) With a lot of trash you can cherry pick your way through using the notch discrim and make passes over the area but don't notch too close to desired target range. Lastly, numbers can vary quite a bit if there are other targets the machine is sensing at the same time so in high iron trash areas try to hit targets from different angles and when in doubt, dig. HH

If your new to the AT Pro the stock coil will be ok for most situations. I am looking to snag a viper coil for mine. Another alternative is the 5x8 for trashy areas. Good iron break point for relic hunting is 32-33 or where an old iron cut nail just breaks. Use pro audio. The AT Pro tends to ground balance on the high side so I often ground balance then manually drop it down about 5 ie if it is 90 ill drop it to 85. This will help on depth and squeak out an extra inch or so. Lastly you can keep iron audo off and use it if you have some jumpy numbers to iron check targets. Larger iron and flat iron like washers can give higher numbers and iron audio will give you a grunt to confirm this. Happy Hunting!

I like the nerdy side of detecting. I also like using what I have learned through research and testing and put it to use in the field but I also find that those tests we all do and scenarios we create with nails laid out like some sort of bone readings and test gardens full of finds at various and often random depths rarely play out in the real world. Experience in the field is the best teacher but never hurts to have a few helpful suggestions from others that have done that. This is one hobby that no matter how much you may think you know and how much experience you think you have you will always discover something new.

Are the new nox coils compatible to the older nox machines?

Wonder if the coil ear feature will be adopted to the 700 and 900? Not for nothing but I'd be freaking out on them! Nice rings!

Apex format is nice, I agree with Jeff they really handicapped the machine audio wise. Audio tone is so short it is very easy to run it too hot. If they made a new version that had a true all metal mode and much like the AT Gold but in SMF format I think it would have potential but why if they have the 24k? Though I am not a nugget hunter I do love the Gold Racer and use it for coin and relic hunting.

Pure silver is still under $30 an oz. We just get way more excited when it's in coin form. 🙂 My guess they stuck the S in front of the 925 to reinforce it's sterling. As for marks on jewelry I have found that the marks are not always what the metal really is. Old rings that say 10k 14k etc are just that but there is a lot of garbage out there that is marked as one thing but it really isn't. Some rings have a low end core and heavy rolled metal over them ie rolled gold. Big tip off is when you get an average gold ring that chimes in way up near zincolns when they should be below a nickel. Rose gold on the other hand may chime in bit higher as it has a higher copper content but shouldn't be off the charts like a penny.

Now that is a pretty sweet hunt!

I believe the Mojave doesn't have an all metal mode / Pin Point and the Silver Saber does. Silver Saber also has analog audio where the newer Tesoros had digital. Tejon has vco analog audio or can be switched to digital with the pitch knob. I prefer the analog audio on it over digital as I can hear the tone rolls much better. Really saves ya digging trash. Mojave does have the advantage over the Silver Saber with the ground balance control so you have ranges you can change. Silver Saber and few others with fixed ground balance may false if grounds are really bad but I also have a Cibola with fixed gb and have taken it around some pretty miserable ground without any falsing. You may want to look for a Bandito II. Couple the guys on Monte's site might have one for sale.

Finding great stuff like that this early in the year will make the rest of the year suck. You know that right? 🙂 Great stuff!

I'd consider the Legend in that category.

Was talking to a local guy who he and his brother hit much of the areas around here back in the 60's through late 90's. Told me one story of hitting Salisbury Beach after a big storm and they pluck out over 200 silvers. To say they didn't hit all the good spots, old foundations etc isn't particularly accurate in my neck of the woods.. These guys got permissions to some of the private colleges, very old court houses etc. Growing up here just about every local coin shop was a Whites dealer or Garrett. Machines were not that far out of reach for many and the areas here are rich in history. We have the advantage of machines that are easier to use but more importantly Lidar maps and the internet that makes research much easier. We are hunting scraps here in New England unless you have permissions to properties that have never been hunted.

That is a first! Cool!

Ya beat me to it ROFL. Nice run!

You didn't show that silver dime to Joe D did you? I thought Joe D found the last 2 silvers left in FL, who would have thought there was a 3rd! Well done 🙂

It never effected or was effected by any of my machines but it did lack power. Sensitivity not much different than the Carrot I have now. What I did like is it was tip detection only.

For a long time I had an old Whites bullseye that ran at 36khz. It wasn't any more sensitive than other pinpointers out there. My guess the 18khz might be friendlier with more machines than the lower khz. Not an issue with wireless pinpointers as they don't run the same time on the headphones. Coil wiring probably and power to the coil in the tip probably makes much more difference in sensitivity and depth than the frequency. I own a Pulse Dive pointer. Very well built, runs great but it is not sensitive to small targets ie foil, gold chains, tiny earrings so I only use it where there is a lot of coal/coke and black sand where it shines. Not that good for the jewelry hunter and certainly not for a prospector.

That coil should be fine for water hunting, no big reinforcement ribs that act like paddles. Curious how that would work for prospectors. If it's sensitive enough maybe Nokta make closed scuffs for it for that purpose. No new machines here either, still doing fine with my current line up and really happy with single tones. I like things simple :)

PI pinpointers in general seem to struggle with small targets in general. Maybe because the pulse delay is too long on them. If that was adjustable I think they would be excellent. My guess, just a guess is the new 18khz would be on par with other pinpointers like the Carrot and Profind. There are rechargable lithium 9v batteries out there. I use them in my Carrot and one my Tesoro's. They work great and last really long between charges.

That is pretty impressive depth for such a tiny coil.

EMI is actually a spike in the signal causing the machine to go out of balance and as it corrects it causes a flutter in the threshold if you have an all metal mode or in severe cases jumpy numbers. Keeping coil close to the ground, keep coil wire coiled nice and neat help reduce emi. Many single and selectable frequency machines have frequency offset so you can chose which works best. Dropping gain does also help and so does using a smaller coil. Not sure how exactly noise canceling works on an SMF. It could be simply frequency offset or it could be averaging the spikes in signal. You can switch to single frequency if it is really bad and pick one that is the quietest for that area.

One reason why you should never do patent searches or filings on your own without a good patent attorney.

44 is nice out, you need to move north 🙂 Cool finds!

If you can change the tone break then use an old rusty cut nail as the break for iron. Many machines iron range extend well past that but think that is to include larger iron pieces and I found using the cut nail as a base line for junk iron has worked well. As an example on my Gold Racer the iron range is 40 but a cut nail hits around 23. Thin gold chain hits around 38. The Multi Kruzer a cut nail is 4 but iron range is 14. I use a small coil on that for freshwater hunting and many small earrings hit around 12-13.