kac
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Everything posted by kac
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It's the thought that counts 🙂
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Best ones to ask is Nokta but I believe they are inclusive so latest update should include previous. Best to double check.
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Now if that was 10-12" down your heart would be pounding at first hehe.
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Depends what your hunting for. Copper and silver is above most pull tabs however tiny silver can be in the aluminum range but would have weaker signals so you should be able to tell the difference. Now if your hunting for gold jewlery most rings, earrings and chains are in below us nickels and above iron (where a square iron nail breaks) with the exception of large rings like class rings.
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I have a pile of wood pieces I use for rod building as seats. Those are birds eye maple. I engraved the logo with my laser. I have some brass rods I cut 1/16" longer on each side of scales and peened them down with a small ball peen hammer then used my sander to finish it all off. All the stock I used I happen to have in my shop. The knife stock I had for a folding probe which I haven't finished off. Seemed bit long and not sure how well it will work once it is slopped up with dirt. May put serrations on the sides of the tip but so far doesn't seem necessary. So far the polished tip didn't gouge up any of the finds but that would probably change on a pine tree shilling :)
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RTG are round so toss a pair of calipers on it. You could use a ruler for what it's worth. Other scoops that have different profiles I think a paper tracing might do the trick then can it in and model from that.
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Brass pins hammered down.
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3 Silver Weekend Includes My 3rd Half Fty
kac replied to NCtoad's topic in Metal Detecting For Coins & Relics
Looks like your missing the 42. Might have to get back out there 🙂 -
Forum Members Hunt Together Sometimes
kac replied to Jeff McClendon's topic in Metal Detecting For Coins & Relics
Single discriminator with a concentric can be tough in a trashy park unless your just chasing the coppers and silver and have everything else disced out. Looks like you guys had a blast. -
Got some areas that I want to hit but can't really use my regular digger as the ground is really dry and want to be bit more discrete. Made a mini digger/probe using 1095 high carbon steel. Thinking I may use a lower carbon steel as this can be brittle but it is surprisingly strong and holding up well even on packed dirt. Still have to get my technique down but it does a pretty nice job.
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Forum Members Hunt Together Sometimes
kac replied to Jeff McClendon's topic in Metal Detecting For Coins & Relics
That's great! Best of luck with the Nevada hunt Chuck! Hope you packed your Vaquero for the trip too ;) -
Back To The Beach With The Deus 2
kac replied to F350Platinum's topic in Metal Detecting For Coins & Relics
What? No selfie with you wearing those spiffy Foster Grants? -
I'm sure there can be tweeks but I am happy with the 4mm triangle holes. Those really are working well.
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Looks like you need to start raising some big foot's or maybe get a batboy over there to attract people back..
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You have an FDM? Let me know if you need an stl or cad file. I think the only thing I would change on this is the lip could be straight across or even reverse the curve. It's thin enough that it doesn't seem to make any difference. Attached below is the one you see there that fits RTG basket scoops with 61mm inside radius. Beach scoop insert.stl Beach scoop insert.stp
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So always bugged me how the tiny stuff falls through scoops which is no big deal when your on land but when your wading it is damn near impossible to get an earing to the surface. Printed this on my 3d printer in ABS and used some double face mounting tape to hold it. So far it works perfectly for what I want. Here are the earings I found along with a tiny gold teddy bear, jade rose earing that has part of the back on it. Also tiny split shot. Signal on split shot can bounce a little but I dig them anyways to be sure. On another note, same pond I found a monster size 13 titanium ring. Tonight a guy and his fiance asked if I found a large titanium ring with a groove in the area and described it to a t. I was able to return that.
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Agate ring around that gold band? Looks pretty cool. Guess your the Cowboy now LOL
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Combined-pinpointer And Digger
kac replied to geof_junk's topic in Metal Detecting For Coins & Relics
Probably tip only sensing on end of handle. I agree with strick, that momentary button won't last. Now if they made a plastic scoop type for prospectors that might be a good idea but it would have to be really sensitive. Never had any issues swapping tools. -
What Does Everybody Use For Tick Protection?
kac replied to Rick N. MI's topic in Metal Detector Advice & Comparisons
You don't need to put Off on your skin, just your clothes unless your practicing for Nakid and Affraid with a detector instead of a fire starter or machete... That could be a little awkward in a busy park -
What Does Everybody Use For Tick Protection?
kac replied to Rick N. MI's topic in Metal Detector Advice & Comparisons
I used to use permethrin but it breaks down your clothing. Deep Woods Off works and I just spray cuffs of pants, waistline and shirt cuffs. Some on the cap to keep mosquitos off your face. -
Fisher Multi Frequency Release In 2022
kac replied to Tometusns's topic in First Texas - Bounty Hunter, Fisher & Teknetics
If the T2 coils aren't chipped then make one for it 🙂 -
Fisher Multi Frequency Release In 2022
kac replied to Tometusns's topic in First Texas - Bounty Hunter, Fisher & Teknetics
Still looks like a squashed OO coil which is similar to a DD but with a narrow middle for better separation. So is there a balance between unmasking and separation? For dd coil I liked the butteryfly in open areas and the narrow smaller coils in high trash. High iron concentric is prefered. -
I use a couple different cad programs. One of my favorites is fairly inexpensive called Moments of Inspiration. It can be run off most laptops and has a very short learning curve. It is also very stable. What I do love about it is I can see the tesselation prior to export and refreshes as I change curvature values so I know I am getting a nice optimized stl for 3d printing. Software can be found here: https://moi3d.com/ The Anycubic machines uses free slicing software called Cura but you can use others. So far Cura has some descent presets for different materials to get the projects jump started. Amazing how expensive all this was not that long ago and how accessable it all has become.
