First Impressions Of The AQ

[cudamark]

Ok, I hit the beach at low tide this morning with the AQ in an area where I've had great luck in the past with gold jewelry and old coins. When this place loses sand down to the rocks, it's amazing. It's sanded in right now, and has been for the last 3 years or so. I was hoping I could get some deep signals that would be in the "treasure" range amongst and under the cobble. Well, even though I had a few deep targets, nothing good or old showed up. I ran the machine mostly at the presets except for sensitivity, which I ran at max, and the delay which I ran at 7us since it was fairly stable at those settings. I tend to run all my machine hot, to the point where they usually "talk" to me a bit. Something I've gotten used to and doesn't bother me.

This machine is going to take some getting used to though. It's been a while since I've hunted much with a PI machine, and this is definitely one. I was quite underwhelmed with it's "discrimination" abilities. I ran it in all metal and dug everything just to get a feel for it and see what things sounded like. I did change from all metal to tone and mute just to see what those changes did to the target sound. Well, in most cases, it didn't change at all. Iron still sounded good. After recovering a couple of bobby pins, I could test them on top of the ground and get that double hit I've seen posted, but, when that same bobby pin is 8 inches down, it doesn't do that . It sounds steady and solid. Same with bottle caps, it LOVES those things!

On the rare occasion where the tone and mute would change, it was rare I got the "bad" target grunt. Most of the time, the targets sound would just disappear altogether. Not one to give up, I dug those too. So far, they've just been deep junk. I had brought a batch of test targets with me to the beach to scan and analyze. All seemed to react the way I thought they would, but, the junk I was finding didn't sound any different than the good targets. Now, this is just one 2 1/2 hour hunt (the battery went dead at that point), but, I would have expected to have found a lot more coins (I found 1 Hong Kong 10 cent piece, that's it) and in this area, a ring or two. I found 3 at that area a few days ago with my Equinox, and a friend that was there today found 2 more also with the Equinox. 

I find the AQ very well balanced with the stock coil. At 5' 10", I had the lower shaft extended as far as it would go and find that barely enough to feel comfortable. Taller people are probably not going to like that and will need a longer shaft or extension. The armrest strap is completely useless. It's at least 6 inches too short. I don't usually use one anyway, so, not a biggie to me. I plan on using a sling. Not because it's too heavy, but, because it's a pain to lay down. The headphone cable isn't long enough to just lower the detector down without removing the headphones or putting a big pull on the connector. Removing the headphones every time you set the detector down is just not something I'm willing to do. Usually, I just prop the detector against my hip, but, with those cables and connectors sticking out the back (and very vulnerable by the way) that just isn't happening. Maybe make a guard for that area?

I knew this machine wouldn't have a display, but, did they really have to make the writing around the knobs that small a font? Almost need a magnifying glass to read the stupid things. I know, I'll get to used to them eventually, but, at 0 dark thirty and trying to use my headlamp, it was a real challenge. A backlight showing those readings would be cool, but, I realize it would add tons to the cost. I haven't experimented yet with adjusting the arm rest. Not sure it's possible. It doesn't hit my arm exactly where I would like it. To me the handle it nice, and it's angle is good too. I like the coil and wishbone shaft connection design. I've been advocating a similar design for years, where the tension and failure point was on the shaft and not the coil. Well done. I'll come up with more nits and kudos as the hunts continue. I started to video this maiden voyage, but, alas, the camera went dead shortly after i started. I'll try to put something together, but, I'm out of town for the next week, so, anyone hold their breath!

[Steve Herschbach]

Great review Mark! Your observations mirror many of mine so we are in agreement on a lot. Good catch on the arm strap being too short. I did not mention that in my report, but it was the first thing I replaced on my AQ.

I have to admit I found tones to be rather useless at first, but really liked it at a different location, so it seems to depend on the location as to how useful it is. It’s pretty busy also in dense targets. I like full tones on my VLF so I’m guessing people who do not like full tones may find the AQ Tone setting to be a lot to handle in thick targets. Not saying you... just an observation based on my last hunt.

You mentioned mostly using presets, just wanted to confirm your ATS was at the preset of 8. In all metal it is tempting to run lower ATS for more depth, but running it too low will cause the tones mode to read all items as high tone.

Yeah, the battery. Several of us have confirmed the battery runs about 2.5 hours on the first go, and takes a couple complete discharge and charge cycles to get to the full 3.5 hour running time.

Rigging a support so the detector hangs by your side is a very good idea. Setting it on the ground, leaning against you side, all put the power cable at risk. I simply ran a rope to my wader suspenders for now.

If you take the armrest off there are three preset drilled positions. It is set for the middle. Be careful running the bolt back in - the power and headphone wires run through the tube.

Extending the Impulse AQ Rod

[cdv]

Good review Mark although I was initially pissed that the battery only lasted 2.5 hours....till I read what Steve said..... I'm ok with having to cycle the battery a few times to get the max time out of it...

Good luck on the next hunt.

Cliff

[Tmox]

Good reviews: you have both mentioned lanyards for your machines. Last year I decided I wanted to try one on the beach and saw the old paddle leash i had on my kayak. I tried it and I use it always now. It's just a woven nylon tube with 3/8 sick cord inside. Loop on one end and Velcro on the other. It's nominally 48" long at rest. Here is a picture from Amazon.

This one is $13 on Amazon and a similar one at my local sports store was twice that. One of my concerns was being able to get out of the thing if i  got knocked downin the surf. In an emergency I can slip this. Search for kayak paddle leash.

Tim

[Joe Beechnut OBN]

• Thanks for the Report Mark and Glad to see another that will post on the subject. 

On the ATS, between 7.5 and 8.5 seems like the most effective area of the dial for fine tuning the reject mode...

The arm rest can be adjust forwards or back  one inch. 

Good Luck and Thanks for sharing! 

 

 

And this would be the very first thing I would do to any of the "AQ"s stress relief the HP cable........I've also got into the habit of disconnecting the main power cord that goes into the back of the shaft during transporting ...less to get hit.

 

Another tip is keep the red silicon o-rings in place, not only do the serve as o-rings but as spacers to keep from over tightening. Something I went thru years ago with the 3m M-12 fittings...over tightening.......... the lip of the fitting would snap off. 

[cudamark]

On 6/25/2020 at 12:17 PM, Joe Beechnut OBN said:

• Thanks for the Report Mark and Glad to see another that will post on the subject. 

On the ATS, between 7.5 and 8.5 seems like the most effective area of the dial for fine tuning the reject mode...

The arm rest can be adjust forwards or back  one inch. 

Good Luck and Thanks for sharing! 

 

 

And this would be the very first thing I would do to any of the "AQ"s stress relief the HP cable........I've also got into the habit of disconnecting the main power cord that goes into the back of the shaft during transporting ...less to get hit.

 

Another tip is keep the red silicon o-rings in place, not only do the serve as o-rings but as spacers to keep from over tightening. Something I went thru years ago with the 3m M-12 fittings...over tightening.......... the lip of the fitting would snap off. 

Yes, that was the first thing I noticed about the headphone cable....and the power cable for that matter. they really stick out like a sore thumb. What I did until I find a better method, is to run the cable back under the arm rest between it and and the battery pod. That way the stress (if it gets any) will be on the cable almost a foot from the connector. I may tape it similar to what you have done though, so, it at least points in the right direction! 

[GaryC/Oregon Coast]

That headphone cable really looks like it's made from some stiff material.  Not  prone to too much re-directing away from the rear to the front.  Plus you already say it's not that long.  I like Joe's pigtail headphone cable rework where you can secure the cable better with rubber banding.  Thanks for the pictures Mark.  GaryC/Oregon Coast

[cudamark]

I just noticed that Joe's looks a bit different than mine. Mine seems to have more of a strain relief on it, and the coiled part seems to start sooner on his. From the connector to the first coil on mine is about 17". I don't think there is any strain the way I have it, in fact, I kind of like it this way. Less likely to get a sharp bend or strain it it if it can move a bit when needed.

[Steve Herschbach]

They changed the headphone cable after Joe got his. Mine was nixed and ready to ship, and they pulled it aside at the last minute to do whatever changes were made. I think I have unit #3?