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I Saw The 5000 Up Grade Test


Drellim

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17 hours ago, phrunt said:

Another simple cheap mod for the GPX series is this interference shield, it's cheap, acts as a protective cover keeping your GPX looking new and I genuinely believe has made a difference to my 4500 and 5000

I wonder who put you onto that??? 🤔 The shield is actually .5mm thick copper tape. You can do this to any detector just by buying the tape for shielding electric guitars. Cheap off Ebay, Aliexpress, Amazon etc. Done it to my 6000 with noticeable effect.

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With all the big military bases in the desert you get some strange stuff going on chirps and such like the idea of shielding the detector  the filters tend to loose efficiency  and calm the noise but you can miss gold  I am  going to do the copper tape on the 5000  and see how that works makes clean sense to me   Especially with the lithium battery and boaster it was a different machine   big old cord quess it was picking up the EMI noise more than we thought   Saving funds to send it off to one of the guys doing mods  I hate to think about selling my moded SD 2200 by issamel   Maybe the moded 5000 is better than most  a lot to think about and our season is just beginning    I do want the most confidence in the machine as to not worry about those long days of no signal and fight the doubt that happens to us all   A real viper in the mix right   Thanks again to you all

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2 hours ago, Drellim said:

I am  going to do the copper tape on the 5000  and see how that works makes clean sense to me.

Be sure to scratch some paint off the GPX housing or remove the front fascia and get it in under there so the tape is in direct contact with the metal, it then connects to the floating earth of the detector.  I've used the foil tape for shielding and it does work, as does the EMI paint, but it's best done connected to a floating ground.

foiltape.jpg.cdfa63ffa291c46c35c5a502a7720be6.jpg

 

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On 11/2/2023 at 7:10 AM, Lunk said:

It is strange how the Extra Deep Gold Mode of the GPZ 7000 isn’t given so much as a mention in this thread, given that it is the lowest frequency option and coupled with the 19-inch coil would be the Zed's weapon for large, deep nuggets. 🤷‍♂️

Yes. Extra Deep is like General, but cuts out a lot of ground noise. Can also work very well in combination with Normal. 

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The GPX boxes are already a massive shield as they are aluminium. There is also aluminium shield on the end caps under the controls. Just have to make sure the paint is scratched off where the aluminium comes in contact with the case around the screw holes. I can't see how adding another layer around the outside would make any difference, especially as most of the EMI we pick up when out in the field is picked up through your coil. I did try one of these control box shields, I put it on and off during the course of a session, and didn't see any difference. Interference would come and go and change as it always does, whether I had it on or off, and a careful manual tune was the best remedy. The immediate and very noticeable change you can do to improve EMI on those bad days is go to a DD coil, or a smaller mono. 

Re modded detectors, I'm all ears (I did certain mods to some older models), and I still love my 4500,  but the only thing it is lacking compared to newer technology machines is ability on reefy/specimen gold. The 4500 and even 5000 are nearly totally invisible to it, even on sizeable pieces. So if someone could add a GPX6000'esque timing into my 4500, I'd be the first to line up, and I'd probably offload my GPZ and 6000. 

Apart from that, the only two mods I would love for my 4500 are:

1. True analog audio, like the GP3500

2. An analog manual tune on the outside - I added one to my GP extreme and it was awesome. 

Some of the claims made re modded detectors have been a little out there over the years, and others would be extremely easy to demonstrate in a simple video, but after many years I'm still waiting. I would like someone to show some clear comparison videos with the following criteria:

1. Modded machine vs another machine untouched (not a modded machine and changing the controls to "standard")

2. Real gold targets, not aluminium cans or such

3. Targets in ground with the coil sweeping across the ground. Nearly every video I've seen of a modded machine showing some level of improvement, they never show it running across the ground. Noise is our enemy. I always have the most success in the field when whatever machine and coil I am using is purring like a kitten. 

4. Use the same exact coil on both machines, and a coil that people are actually swinging out in the real world. 

So many of the videos that are trying to show off a modded detector show the following:

1. Targets sweeping in air, or targets on the ground and coils raised sweeping over the target (basically zero ground response)

2. No reference or even measurements when showing depth

3. In a workshop with lots of emi 

The other thing that would be nice is if a claim is made along the lines of: such and such mod improves the ground balance accuracy - then I need to see something to verify this statement. 

I've got one of Micks battery regulators, and it's really good, and the workmanship is top notch. 

Here's something that I've recently pondered about. During the GP days, I always thought a straight power cable would run better than a curly cord. When Minelab finally made the curly cord nice and heavy duty I went back to curly cords and kind of forgot about the straight cord. What's everyone's experience on this?? 

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31 minutes ago, PhaseTech said:

During the GP days, I always thought a straight power cable would run better than a curly cord.

What is your theory behind this PT?  Less voltage drop over a shorter distance or something?  Although I thought a heavy duty cable would negate that anyway?  But, as we all know, I am very tech limited  🙂 

I am getting a short power cable soon for my GP3500 - now I am wondering if it will be straight or curly...?  😉

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1 hour ago, Northeast said:

What is your theory behind this PT?  Less voltage drop over a shorter distance or something?  Although I thought a heavy duty cable would negate that anyway?  But, as we all know, I am very tech limited  🙂 

I am getting a short power cable soon for my GP3500 - now I am wondering if it will be straight or curly...?  😉

Just an observation, but I'd go straight cable over curly wherever possible - lighter, neater 😉

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I have gone back to my 5000 as being my primary go to detector as it is getting me bigger gold. Myself along with three others did some tests with the 6000, 7000, 4500, 5000, modded 4000, and modded 5000 bith by detectronic Australia and the 5000 and 4500 got best depth and signal response on 1/2 oz and 3/4 oz nuggets at depth over the 6000, 7000 and modded 4000. I may get my 5000 modded, but am waiting to see how my buddy does with his modded 5000. I am certain my 5000 with 15" Evo, deep in front, Sharp timing deep audio, 12 gain 7 stabilizer is getting me 1.5 g nuggets deeper than my 6000 and the 7000. I hit a 1.58 gram nugget at 16" deep in a tight spot pounded with the 6000 and 7000. When I got the 5000 in there set how I mentioned above I got an unmistakable target signal where the other two were quite with no signal. I then put it in Sensitive extra, fine gold, general as well as tried all the other audio settings and I got no signals at all. I have it on video. And I have pulled two other nice nuggets out of the ground using my settings I mentioned above. I will probably never take it out of deep in front and deep audio. Sharp is the timing of choice that is getting me results. If the ground is shallow then I use Fine Gold but keep all other settings the same. It is getting me results. 

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